VinhZXT

Looks good but I am sure you are not putting the motor all the way back. I had my motor all the way back up against the fire wall and I know the ears will rub the T/C mounts. If you put turbos in this Z I would think you need all the space up front so you can fit the turbos, intake duct, radiator, I/C pipings etc. Good luck.. I am interest in seeing how you fit everything in there.

TonyD, Thank you much for the info. I think you nailed it. I have another 280ZXT with everything stock and it doesn't have this problem. I took the ECU from this car and swap it with the car I am having problem with but it didn't fix anything. So I know it's something unique about this car that cause the O2 sensor going in and out of close loop. It drives fine and all but it is just annoying when the A/F mixture meter doesn't do its sweep. I will definitely getting the heat O2 sensor to try it out. Thank you much for the info. Vinh

This would be best if you buy a tuner software and do it yourself. You can program it to run lean on the tune that you will be taking to the smog station. After that you can program your regular tune back in for the HP. I have an EFI Live software that I bought. It's pretty easy to use. GL PS. I bought the software because I was tired of listenning to the mail tuner that I can't do this or can't do that. I bought the software so now I can do everything on my own. There are like thousand of parameters being controled in the PCM and I doubt all the tuners understand completely what they are for. So to get a mail tune from someone you don't know what they have in there. You never know that he could have copy that tune from someone else and put on your PCM. The bottom line is if you want something done right you just have to do it yourself imo. GL

When I installed mine I just crushed the cap and cut the inner spring on the driver side in half. This will reduce the tension on the cap to allow the shaft to pop in place easier.

I had the exact problem with my 79 280ZX and the problem was the AFM. It was running way too rich. Tighten up the spring in the AFM fixed the problem on my car. Check your rear bumper to see whether you have a lot of black smode deposit on the bumper? If so then your car had the same problem as mine. GL.

What I am asking is why it takes too long for the O2 sensor to send signal to the A/F mixture meter. I also see the O2 sensor stop sending signal to the A/F mixture gauge after the car was completely warmed up. I don't have this problem with my other 280ZXTs. Once the O2 sensor starts sending signal to the A/F mixture gauge it will continue to do so until you shut the engine down for a long period of time. I will have to double check the O2 sensor and the CHT sensor when I have time. Thanks for all the replies. Vinh

Hi Guys, I have a little problem with my 280ZX turbo. I have JeffP's downpipe and a full 3" exhaust and an intercooler on this car and it's running 12PSI. The problem I have is the car takes a long time to go into close loop mode. In addition it goes from close loop to open loop even after the car is warm up. I have a new O2 sensor and that's what I read to determine whether it is in close or open loop. I will check my CHT sensor and O2 sensor again to make sure but if anyone has any idea I appreciate it. Thanks in advance Vinh

It's a lot easier to use a rod instead of the cable. I used the stock 280Z's shift rod and custom make a handle that bolt to the trans. Here is a couple of pictures:

Guy, Congrats on a job well done. It looks beautiful. Now let's paint the thing and enjoy driving it.

Your starter relay is going bad. I've seen old relay actually makes the clicking sound but with closer inspection the contacts never made. Get someone to crank the car and check for 12V at the small connector at the starter. GL

I don't see how you're gonna fit the LS1, turbo and exhaust into a Z unless you plan to have the exhaust dump out of the fender well. Good luck however

You will need the oil pan gasket as well.

Larry, With or without the flex joints I think the first thing will go is my rockers where I welded the mounts for the side pipes. The rocker panel is very weak and I might have to redo these mounts later on. My car is sitting high right now and I think I have 5 or 6 inches of clearance from the exhaust. So if I drop 2" later I still should be OK. I still have to watch out for speed bumps. b_sosick, Thanks PS. I need to disable my torque management so I can do better on the burn out lol.

I noticed you are putting a turbo onto this mtor. Which side of the engine do you plan to run the exhaust and where you put the turbo? You will need to pay close attention to the exhaust if you plan to run it down under the car. The C5 wings (if leave too long) will interfere with the exhaust. Check out the picture of my exhaust in this link http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=120461 Good luck. I am interest in your project.

I am just curious how do you plan to fit the C5 LS1 oil pan into your Z? I have a C5 LS1 oil pan in my Z but I have to cut the wings for it to fit. Otherwise you will have to move the TC mountings to the front of the crossmember in order to fit the C5 oil pan in there. Sorry I don't have the info for the windage tray and the dip stick. You might want to look at ls1tech or corvetteforum. GL

Frank, What do you have to do for the 300ZX axles to fit the 280ZX?

Bartman, Right now I didn't do anything with the frame rails where I cut. In the pictures you can see I jacked the car from behind the rails and I don't see any buckling after I cut the rails. However when I get to work on the frame restoration I will add 2 1/4" plates on each side of the cut and add a removable bridge to reenforce the rails. I tug the side pipes very close to the body and I will have a shield on them also. Larry, Thanks for sharing your pix. Look farmiliar doesn't it? lol .. they are 3" BTW.

Some pictures and sound clips: Videos: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yusY_SgfOZ4 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CUGvAnokxII

Yasin, Congrat on the new found. Let's the addiction begin lol. Twelve years ago I started out with 1 280ZX and now I end up with 3 280ZXs ( couple turbos), 2 280Zs, 2 240Zs and a 260Z.

Do you have an intercooler in your car? This problem sounds exactly like when I blew my intercooler pipe open. Check to see you have a big leak between the turbo's outlet and the throttle body. GL

This happenned to me once a short while back. I won the auction and contacted the owner and they never replied. I contacted Ebay and got the phone number. I called and they said they don't know anything about selling an engine. After a few more questions I hung up. I think the scammer phishing around for other members' Ebay account. They get their info and then start another Ebay account. That's when they can scam people. Just beware and don't send money to anyone until you have what you bought in your hands. GL.

First thing to check is your plugs. if they look good then check the inside of your gas tank. I have a hunch that it has some rusts in there and clog the fuel line. GL

Steeltoad, Just make sure you don't let any water or moist get to the back of your fender and the headlight bucket. When this happens it will develope rusts and it doesn't matter how strong is your bondig job is it will rip that apart.

Gabe, Looking good. However I suggest you to put in some type of shield there between the exhaust manifold and the AFM. I've just found out that my exhaust had burned thru my PCV pipe on my turbo Z. The AFM got the air temp sensor that can send the wrong signal to your ECU. Other than that everything looks good.

Cody, On a ZX I suggest you not to mold the headlight bucket to the fender. It will crack eventually. This is because you can't put much fiberglass to hold the 2 together. If you do there will be a lump there. I had a lot of success molding fiberglass to metal in the pass (on my yellow Z) using the same method as BlueOval. But I used a few layers of thick and soaked fiberglass mat to hold the parts together. I wouldn't do it in this case though.