VinhZXT

Something must have flew up and rip it out. The lowest part is the A-arm and the bottom of your differential. JC whitney got the same boots as VB and MSA and they are cheaper. Please send me some pictures of the scene behind the boot. Thank you. Vinh

Brian, I am having the same problem and my half shaft is binding and making clunking sound. To make thing worst in my case at this point is I still have the stock springs in there and my car is sitting very high. This caused the half shafts sitting at almost full droop positions. If I lower the car some it will help a little bit but I still have concerns. So I am thinking of using 2 shorter 280ZXT CV shafts. Yes I know the input shaft won't get locked by the circlip ring but I don't think I don't have to worry about the input shaft sliding out on this set up since the shafts are compressed almost all the way at full droop. Please post some pictures of the input shaft apart. I would like to have a look before I disassemble mine for an experiment. Thanks Terry, Do you have any picture of the inner joint when you remove it? If you can swap out the input shaft then why not putting 2 shorter sections for both shaft in. Also do you know anyone sell these same center sections but shorter? Vinh

Clive, I don't know what Speartech do to the harness and why their price is so much especially all the GM harness are stand alone harness arlready. The biggest problem will be depends on where you will mount the PCM and whether the harness will reach it or not. I doubt Speartech even touch the PCM connectors or modifying it. On my friend's Z (Fbody harness) I didn't have to open the harness up. I just cut a few unused wires and tape them up. These wire can be used later on if you needed for some reasons. Other than that just hook up relays for fuel pump, E fan and starter, power inputs and some sensor wires and you are done. I will work with you guys on the price. Don't worry it's not going to be close to half of Speartech's price. Also I am an electrical engineer and I installed alarms and remote starter for cars for over 10 years. That's should give a piece of mind. Don't get me wrong I am not trying to find more work. I am just lending a helping hand when/where needed. Here is my cell 215-880-9557. Give me a call if you need help. GL Vinh

Don't worry it's not that big of a deal. Wiring is like a cake to me. I can help you guys. If you guys don't want to do it send the harness to me and I will hook up relays, connectors etc to make it easier for you guys to hook it up. I will work with you guys on the price and then I will use that money to donate to this forum. How is that? Win/Win situation eh? lol. Let me know Vinh

Start saving up more money. The little things add up quickly. Good luck and have fun building it. Check out my web page for more info if you need it. Vinh

Thanks for the replies. My FFCobra side pipes don't have coating on the inside so if I grind away the outside coating I should be able to weld right? The headers might be coated inside and outside so they might be much harder to weld. OK I think I can start hacking my side pipes up and give it a try. Thanks Vinh

Hi All, I found this quote from Stahl header "Headers coated with ceramic coatings or flame spray coatings from specialty coating companies are not weldable. Even after we go to great pains to remove the coating, the material does not weld properly. Therefore, ALWAYS FIT CHECK a header before it is sent for coating. Coated headers are not returnable under any circumstances." Anyone else has tried this before and got better results? I am asking this because I am about to modified a ceramic coated side pipes I got from FFCobra. Thanks for any inputs. Vinh

I think you had it reversed. I got 325 front and 250 rear. Yeah I will use the angle iron piece as a guide before welding. For cutting if you don't have the chop saw I would use a hose clamp as a guide for cutting. Then grind grind and grind.

Your lucky day. I just did this for my Ls1 swap. Cold - it's from 18K to 33K Ohms. Hot - 250 - 400 Ohms There is a toyota sensor part numbers TS198. That's the one I used and it has the 10 mm or 1/4 thread. Should work with your RB. GL Vinh

Warren, Nice.. But if you want more bling you can go with these

MONGO, You are correct. I think we were all refering to the temp sending unit.

I found a temp sensor from a toyota I believe that had the same resistance range as the Z but it used 1/4" thread for my LS1 motor. I don't have the part numbers here with me. Got the part number TS198. Sorry they didn't list who makes it. My parts guy is on Vacation

Cho240Z, The coolant temp sensor I am talking about is the one in the front of the driver side's head. That sensor feeds the temp info back to the PCM. The PCM uses that to determine when to turn on your fan. If you removed that and put in another temp sensor so that your stock temp gauge will work then it will mess up your fan and possible how the engine runs in close loop mode. On my LS1 swap I left that stock temp sensor alone and installed another one in the JTR T fitting to get the stock temp gauge to work and the fan works fine. Without the stock temp sensor the engine will run OK but in open loop mode.

This should be very simple to check. Cut the signal wire from your relay and connect it to 12V. If that kicks the fan on then do a continuity check from there to the PCM connector for the signal wire. If the continuity checks OK then double check the wire from your coolant temp sensor to the PCM. If those wires are OK then something could be wrong with your PCM. GL Vinh

You over looked JohnC post. I bet you a lot of money it's the last item on JohnC's list. I had this happened to my ZX recently. The Tension compression rod broke right where the bushing is. Sometimes the bushing still stuck on there and you can't really see whether it broke or not. You just have to use a long pry bar and wiggle the front wheel forward and you will see it. It is a scary feeling when this happens. On a ZX the TC rod is bolting to the front so as soon as it broke you will feel it. On a Z the TC rod is bolt to the back so you won't notice it until you turn the steering wheel. GL Vinh

What spring rates did you get for the front and back? I just received the brakes and full suspension from Dave also. My stuffs won't go into the car until I am completely done with the frame restoration. Hopefully I get my exhaust complete soon so I can start stripping the car down.

Terry, Very nice looking. I just finished my 240SX rear brake swap and this makes me want to throw that away and go with wilwood brakes. Where did you get the Al spacer?

I believe I was the one who asked this question recently. I used the stock C5 auto shifter on my Z. I have not tried to put the stock console back yet so I don't know whether I need to trim the console or not. Here are couple of pictures:

cho240z, No that thing doesn't have a full exhaust yet. It just has a short pipes down from the collectors. I just got my side pipes so this will be my next thing to do. Once I am done with the exhaust I think I can start stripping it down and work on the frame. You are welcome with the gauges. I didn't help much. Vinh

Mario, Where is that white Z? I am interest in looking at it. Thanks Vinh

Randy, Thanks for the reply. I've been searching and calling some headers companies to get their recommendations. Unfortunately there is none close to where I live. Otherwise I would just bring the car to them and let them do it. I know it will require a lot of work to build these headers so I will take my time to research. I do have to finish up the exhaust system completely so that I can move on to the next stage of my project. That is to strip down the car and put it on the rotisserie. Oh boy I can't wait.

I can't disagree with you with the CAT. I just took my LS1 Z out today with open headers. As soon as I open the door I was overwhelm with the exhaust gas and it made me sick until now as I typed. I definitely have to put the CAT on my car. Otherwise I will not live long driving this car in a stop and go traffic especially this car has side pipes.

I've been battling with running problems with my LS1 Z. I finally got these problems solved. The passenger side plugs were back firing and raw fuel was dumped into the exhaust. I had to re-pin my PCM connectors before to use the 99 and up PCM. So I checked the wiring and they looked OK. I did the ohm check from the PCM to each igntion coil and realized that the wires were not correct. I look back to the PCM wiring diagrams for the 98 and 99 and I found the difference. Appearantly the 98 and 99 models had the same wire colors but for some reasons the passenger side ignition coil wires are different in function. This was why I had ignition coil 2 and 8, and 4 and 6 reversed. So I opened up the PCM connectors and swap the wires for the coils to the passenger side. The car runs and idles good now but when I take it out and try to smoke the tires it sputtered, feel like it loses power. So I think it might had something to do with the torque management. I checked the PCM wiring again and there is a Gry wire that from the extended brake switch. This wire needs to see 12V when the brake is not pressed and 0 volt when the brake is pressed. So I hook this wire directly to 12v. Took the car out and it runs like a champ. Here is a video of a quick run. You can hear my wife said don't run into that car sitting on the left side walk. That's why I didn't gun it. I afraid I loose control and hit that damn car. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5HxZzcPJgYk Sorry for the long post. If you plan to re-pin your PCM just pay attention of the ignition wires to cylinders 2, 4 ,6 and 8. Also the torque management was supposed to be turned off in my PCM but I didn't do the programming. So the best way to disable the TM is to hook up the brake wire to the PCM to 12V. Good luck Vinh

Hi All, I just got the sidepipes for my Cobra Coupe Kit car and I now want to build my own headers insteading of using the stock modified C5 headers. My car will probably be mostly a street car and will see the track sometimes. I did some searches and found out that I should be using 1 and 5/8" primaries. My set up will be 4 into 2 NOT 1 because the Coupe's side pipes have dual 2" side pipes. The plan for my new headers will be coming straight out from the heads thru the fender well and then running behind the front wheels to the side pipes. My question is how long are my primaries between the heads and the Y's. Is it correct that the longer the better? sort like long tube headers? Another question is where the heck can I put the O2 sensor bungs? I might have to put in a 2" X so that I can put the O2 sensor bungs in. Or I can go from 4 into 1 and then back to 2 to go into the sidepipes. Wow what a mess. I need some ideas and suggestions guys. Thanks in advance for the inputs Vinh Edit: I have an LS1 into a 280Z BTW.

Yasin, Take the Z out for some photos. It will look good. vinh