VinhZXT

Hi Eric, Yes I can see your drawing. That should work fine. Good luck.

Z240, The differences between the 280zx turbo and N/A is the outter flange. The turbo has the round outter flange and the N/A has square flange. Also the turbo has CV joints and the n/a has u joints. I am sure that the 280ZXT CV half shafts won't work in your 240Z unless you get the adaptors from MM. I am not sure how many splines does the 240Z stub axles have? However I know for a fact that the 280Z stub axles don't have the same splines as the 280ZXTs. I just did my own CV conversion into my 77 280Z and here is a picture: I had to cut the flange from the 280ZXT and weld it to the 280Z stub axle. I had to cut the 280Z stub axle to shorten it up so that the final piece is the same length as the original 280ZXT stub axle.

Eric, Yes that was what I meant. You will have very little room to work with so your triggering mechanism has to be very sensitive. Don't worry too much about the switches. Whatever they are Normally Open or Normally Close you can use them to disable the remote starter. The remote starter should has a few inputs to disable it. Tomorrow I will put my ZX on the lift to check it out for you. If you mount the mechanism closest to the tunel you will have the biggest swing of the shifter. Just have to watch out for the rubber boot. I will get back with you tomorrow. Good luck. PS. I forgot to mention why would you need 2 switches. You need 2 because you will one in the front and one in the back of the shifter. Hope you understood what I wrote.

What you can do is install 2 switches on top of the rear of the transmission. These switches must have an arm so that the shifter will trigger it if the tranny is in gear. If you have a garage opener you can look at the 2 stopper switches on the track. These are the type of switches I am talking about. Install one in the front and one in the back of the shiftter. Hook both switches in series and to a relay. This relay will hook interface with your starting circuit. That should work. Good luck

Darrel, You forgot the 280zxs have R180 also and those axles will not work. The axles must come from 280zxs with R200 and non turbo. However I've seen late model, non turbo 280ZXs with R200 and CV axles.

I believe the non BW T5 trannies don't have the neutral switches. I have a 79 280ZX with manual trans and it doesn't have the neutral switch. I am not sure the 82 or 83 manual trans have the neutral switch built in or not. However I have a BW T5 and it does has this neutral switch and I do have the remote starter hooked up to this car of mine. Good luck

You mean the compressor for an LS1 S30 car. I've been searching around the JYs for small compressor to fit my LS1 S30 car also and had no luck either. I used this same method for the alternator for my LS1 swap. I really want to see how you LS1 guys fit the stock GM alternator down low beside the motor without rubbing the frame rails. Unless you guys shift the motor more to one side and the motor is much higher compare to mine. Even up high I still don't have much room for compressor or alternator. What I did was I put the motor in where it suppose to be and then fit the rest of the stuffs on the motor. Please let me know if you find a compressor that works for you.

You will need the rack and the companion crossmember. In other words if you get a manual rack you have to get the crossmember for the manual rack. if you get the power rack you have to get the crossmember for the power rack. The crossmembers are NOT the same for different type of steering systems, just beware. Don't know why Nissan would want to do that. I have a power rack and the mating crossmember. If you want them let me know. GL

The motor in the pic has the vette style mounts and the JTR headers won't work with them. The JTR headers will only work with the JCI engine mounts.

I am interest in what kind of rack he used in the picture above? Look like it can be adapt to any car easily. Just have to find a left hand drive rack of the same car. Dale, You used John's Kit. In order for you to fit the alternator in that location your motor has to sit higher compare to mine. I had the motor in that location and when I dropped the motor in the alternator was sitting on top of the bottom ujoint of the steering shaft. Here is my very simple installation: You can see how low my motor sits too

Hi all, Anyone using the huger headers have a problem with them burning up the spark plug boot/wire? A friend of mine has an SBC with block huger headers and they keep burning up the boots and wires for the spark plugs. It even caught on fire 2 weeks ago as a result of the clutch fluid leaks out onto the oil cooler lines. I talked to some local guys and they said to put a few dents to the header pipe whereever they touch the spark plug boot. Thanks for any info Vinh

It's funny how every time you think about harming someone else you ended up harming yourself or someone you know hehe.. Those ideas are just for joking around IMO

Briguy, I would not say you can't modify the C5 mount to fit the JTR header. If I remember correctly you will need to move the mount forward an inch to fit the JTR header on the passenger side. The driver side fits perfect so nothing to worry about that. The problem I am not sure is the header will hit the new crossmember or not. You can make another mount to replace the C5 mount and using the compressor bolt holes that will give you some room there. This should work if the header doesn't hit the new crossmember. I don't have my car here but if you need pictures of something I can take and send them to you. On another note do you think the stock C5 header will work with your setup? As I mentioned before the stock C5 SS headers are double layer with gap between the 2 layers. That will help to reduce the escape heat. I have not fire up my car yet so I can't really tell how hot it is. Let me know if I can help you out with anything. Good luck Vinh

I believed they are different. I actually have the 300ZX dizzy in my garage lol. After my dizzy went bad I figured I need some for spare and I went to the junk yard and took one home and tried to swap over and it was not the same .. I think I've read someone said they are the same but from my experience no they are not the same. GL I assume you won't be needing the ignitor any more eh? lol

Briguy, Sorry I couldn't understand your question? What mount did I used when I got the JTR headers? I got the C5 mounts and biscuits. The crossmember was very easy to make and the stock C5 headers fit because they should lol. The only problem was the stock C5 headers spand out wider and hit the frame rails. So after a few hours discussing with my brother what's the best way to modify them we decided to cut the bottom of each tube right after the flange and fold the manifold toward the block. I forgot how much I have to cut and how much I have to fold them but I did a little at a time until they both clear of all the obstacles. BTW these C5 stock headers are double layers all the say down to the collector. That was for preventing too much heat dumping into the engine and melt everything around them. They are also stainless steel. I got another set in my garage for spare. If someone needs them let me know. I've been wanting to ask you what you used on your brake booster on your car because I didn't see it in your engine compartment. Mind sharing the secret? I have cleaned up all the pictures from my web site so I don't have the headers pictures on there. If you want to see them I can still take picture of them and send to you.

Quik240z/Dave, No problem. Just tell me what you want done and I can hook you up. I plan on going down south sometimes in the summer to meet you guys at Mikelly's place. Let me know next time I come down I will bring my tools and alarms. PAZ8, I installed an alarm in my top less Z that remotely unlock the doors and pops the doors open. It also has the microwave interior sensor. The alarm also has the starter cut off feature built in. It also has the beeper/receiver built into the remote and it also remotely start your car. The beeper will go off if the alarm triggered and the reception range is within 1 mile. The microwave sensor will trigger the alarm if someone stick their hand over the window or t-tops. I've been installing alarms and remote starter for over 10 years and to me all alarms are the same. It's the installer that makes the different. The brand name alarm I used call Prestige. I've seen many other brand names alarms and all the wirings are the same. There are many ways to use an alarm or starter cutoff. I live in the city and therefore I need maximum protection. Where you live you probably don't need all the stuffs I have. You just need a simple remote starter cutoff with the door lock unlock option. Let me know what you need and I can hook you up with something fits your needs.

GB, Here is a picture of my intake. I still retain that return hose from the output of the turbo. The engine uses this return air for idling by using the Vacuum Control Valve. It also utilizing this VC valve as a blowoff valve. This is the little round valve screwed into the 4th runner of the stock turbo intake. I just realized that is a Maxima you have there.. cool..

swap out your T-stat housing with your sensors and verything is OK. some ZX T-stat housing has more then 2 sensors. I think you only need the water temp sensor and the cold start valve sensor for your Z. GL

Definitely check the AFM connector and the ECU connectors. I accidentally left my AFM unplug at one point and started the car up and it smoked like a chimney because too much fuel. The temp sensor richen the mixture but not comparable to the enrichment of the AFM. GL

Paz8, I install alarms and remote starters for people and I've been doing it for a long time. You don't need to run the wire for what you need now. It can be done easily after your car is done. I've seen remote doors module with starter cut-off selling around $50-60. If you are a good installer you can't see the wires. Drive your car down and I will hook it up for you.

David, Thanks for the pix. Looks good. Look at what I just got from the junkyard lol Ls1240Z, How much are you selling your bar for?

Guys the parking brakes will not stop your car from jerking if you start it in gear. My BW T5 from 1983 has this neutral switch in it. Most of the newer trans should have this neutral switches built in. If the trans don't have the neutral switch the least you can do is install a switch at the clutch pedal. It is very dangerous without any of these 2 protection against manual trans car.

The 280ZXT cars are famous for intermittent problems with the ECU connectors. I replaced my ECU connectors with the newer 300ZX connectors and no more problems. the 84-89 300ZX ECU connectors are the same as the 280ZX turbo's connectors except for a couple of missing wires. I suggest you to go to a junkyard and cut them out of the 88 or 89 models since they are still new and splice them into yours. GL

have you try to swap out the CAS after it dies? I had a problem with one of my distributor. It allowed the car to run for 1/2 hour and then all the sudden it shut off. After it cooled down it would work again. GL

Check your tranny to see if it has a neutral switch installed? If it does then you need to hook up a starter relay that connects to this neutral switch. It's really simple if you have the switch in the trans. The switch should have 2 wires coming out. If it's in gear the 2 wires are disconnect. If it's in neutral then the 2 wires connect. Get a relay and you should hook it up as follow: Pin 85 - Input Start wire from ignition Pin 86 - to 1 of the wire from the neutral switch Pin 30 - Connect to Pin 85 Pin 87 - Output to the starter. Pin 87A - Not used. Connect the other wire of the neutral switch to ground. If you don't have a neutral switch in the tranny then you need to hook up a switch at your clutch pedal. Again you will need to use a relay to interface the switch and the starter. The hook up is a bit different because the switch is opposite now. This switch is normally open until you press on it. However when the pedal is not depress it is resting on the switch and therefore forcing it making contact. Therefore you have to use the reverse logic as below. Unless you can find a switch that is normally close and when press on it it becomes open then you can hook it up exactly like the above direction. Pin 85 - input Start wire from ignition pin 86 - to 1 of the wire on the switch pin 30 - Connect to Pin 85 Pin 87A - Output to the starter Pin 87 - Not used. Connect the other wire of the neutral switch to ground. The best and safest way to hook it up is thru the neutral switch in the trans. But you still need to couple that with the clutch pedal switch for add protection. Good luck