VinhZXT

I used an adaptor plate. I mount the adaptor plate to the old existing bolt holes first then mount the pedal to the plate. If I remember correctly the bolts for the adaptor plate has to be counter shunk. It was a little tricky to get the bolts in there. so no drilling in the fire wall for me.

Update: I replaced the oil pan, filled up the oil and start it up. First 3 seconds it was making the noise but after that everything was OK. I cut up the oil filter and it was clean. I removed the windage tray and check for metal shavings and there was none. Everything was clean. I guess my friend didn't lied. He pulled over as soon as he heard noises coming from the engine. Thanks for all the tips. V.

Thanks for all the tips guys. I am waiting for the oil pan to get here. Should be here some time this week. I will keep you guys updated.

My friend took his LS1 Z up to Boston last weekend. He ran over something and cracked the oil pan. He was stupid not to watch the oil pressure gauge and kept driving. He told me he heard some engine noises and pulled over. By that time he reallized the oild pan was cracked because the oil was all over the back of the car. I asked him how long did he drive after he heard the clunk and he said not long and he pulled over right the way when he heard noises from the engine. My question is what the worst can happen to the motor? He asked me to replace the oil pan for him and put some oil in and start it up and see what happens. My guess is if the motor makes noises then the damage was done already. My plan is to do compression test first. What is the compression reading on these engine? Anyone else have any suggestion to what to check while I have the oil pan out? I like to inspect the bottom end while I have the oil pan out. Can I just remove a few bearing caps and check them? Thanks for any input. V.

Yup it's the black and gold one. $15K is the price tag. I put 15K into my cobra already and it's only half way done.

Just found my garage queen. I am picking it up tomorrow. Enjoy the pictures guys. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/721840/5 V.

It looks good but please tell him fix the right side mirror. It's crooked.

Davyz, Thanks for the compliments. Steeltoad, I see your zx is pretty radical. If you look carefully on my yellow Zx I have the hood scoop there. Looks pretty good and it's functional too. Since you are pretty good with the metal work it shouldn't be a problem for you to create the hood scoop out of the stock hood. GL

I have said this many times before. The ZXs has nice body lines to them already. Therefore IMO the flares will ruin the body lines. The worst part of the car is the rear. I haven't seen many people customize the back end on the ZX yet. I did the roll pan on my Yellow ZX back in 97 and it looked pretty good (not radical). here is a picture for Steeltoad. I did some more mod on the front end of my yellow ZX and it might match your steeltoad body line better. Here is a pic Here is the rear roll pan This led to this rear end

I believe there is one on Ebay right now. good luck http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190263836045&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&viewitem=

symptom: the fuel pressure doesn't hold in the line problem: the check valve at the fuel pump is not working.

These are too small for fender mirrors. You will need to glue a convex lens on top of this to get a wider view if you want to put them on the fenders. I have these similar mirrors on my friend's Cobra.

You haven't search enough. These turbo cars are famous for doing this and the main cause is the ECU connectors not making good contacts. Open the kick panel and push on the middle connector while driving and see the problem is there or not. This is the main recent why every body converts it to MS. it's not the AFM. GL

Depends on the weather. If it's good I will bring my blue Z and my friend will bring the Cobra Daytona down.

Is it a 2+2 with a black hood?

I had success remove the top and bottom chrome pieces by pulling them left and right and they will pop out of the clips. However there is a great possibility that you will bend the chrome pieces if you are not carefull. If you are replacing the windshield then the best way to remove the chrome pieces is to stick a utility knife in between the windshield and the chrome piece and cut the clips. Once the windshield is out you can buy new clips from MSA and reinstall them. If you go this route let me know because I bought new clips from MSA awhile back and never used them. Good luck

how much did you get them for? What head gasket will you be using? Are you upgrading the head bolts? I am going to do the ls6 upgrade soon. Thanks

here's another one. He posted another one a month ago and he wanted $2000 for it. I emailed the nuckle head to ask him did he put in an extra 0 in his price and he said no. http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/cto/803603103.html

I appologize. Don't take it the wrong way. I didn't mean to do that. Every one already said it looked clean so I just didn't want to repeat it. I was just pointing out a few things you could have done better so hopefully someone else can benefit from it later on. Cheers

1. You bought the wrong covers. You have a 99 and later fuel rails and you are using the 97-98 covers. 2. The good thing is you flip the fuel rail but the bad thing is you didn't move the cover with it. If you move the cover you wouldn't have to cut it up. 3. It would be much nicer if you put the PCM inside the car and route the EFI harness thru the firewall right at the back of the engine. A couple of pictures for reference after you flip the fuel rail and move the cover with it. I didn't have to cut anything on the cover for them to fit after flipping the rail.

The C5's have their radiator tilt back toward the firewall and that's how I got mine set up. I had to do this because I am using the C5 air intake duct. I also have an opening on the top to let air escape if it won't go thru the radiator. Not sure how affective it is yet cuz the car is still not complete yet.