ZT-R

yup, that gets signal when the key is in the start position.

Very happy with the quality and fitment. You have to run custom axles with the R230 rear end. Gabriel can hook you up with the correct lengths, they are big beefy moser axles or something. I need to adjust the parking brake now that i have been using it a lot as it will not lock the rear at a slow roll. If i remember correctly you will have to use the rear cailpers on the opposite sides (leff goes on the right) and you need to trim the brake backing plate some to accomplish this.

Well, I can hit my staples easy button on this one... Speedhut directly to pin 7 on the ecu and that is it.

Provides vacuum to the valve covers which an "seal the piston rings". I have scavengers on my downpipe and a check valve, so as rpm goes up i get vacuum on the valve cover ports. See my build thread if you want details/pics.

Will they be predrilled or to each his own?

While on the flare subject has anyone used regular zg flares on the front and the bamf ones on the rear? Pics would be great.

You move fast and you have a green thumb. Purdy flowers ya got there

Which motor 25 or 26?

Looking good so far.

Rear diffuser would be awesome. As far as bang for your buck, i would do a pillar gauge pod. NO ONE makes one that fits. I would like to see -Dash (maybe with 1 more gauge in the center?) -Center Console -Doors. not just skins, lets ditch our rust depositories while we are at it -1 piece fender/headlight buckets -Side skirts like below. (well i will have to upload that later, i dont have the pic on this computer) but it is a rust color z with black wheels and has a very clean sideskirt on it that goes on the door, fender and rear quarter.

Hey guys, I have some carbon fiber flares from the Zstore (at least i think they are from there). Are these things as wide as the regular ZG flares? i held up the rear and it seems like it will only give me maybe 1/2 at best. I saw the bamf ones but i think those are a bit wide for my taste.

Hey guys i have a 72 240z and my sending unit is leaking out the center (not the o ring). I have speedhut gauges so i was wondering if there is a better sending unit i can put in there that will not oscillate so much.

Looks good. I was thinking about getting the tab slides as they sit lower and i can hack up the stock mounts, i have a plasma cutter, mig, tig and a recipricating saw, so there is not much I cant do. Your pans look good.

Nice job. Do you have pics of the interior with the seats installed?

That doesnt make much sense. Sell the 25 and build the 26, it doesnt take long to build it. Just my 2 cents.

Will they still attach with the body pins like oem?

I dont mind if you overlay mine with carbon fiber.

I would like to see this cut down like 1/2 or 1/4 inch all the way round (not as high) mainly just for venting as i dont like the vented inspection lid look.

How about something like this?

What color are the wires that do the high beam indicator (72 240z) i am thinking it is red/white but i cant seem to get a reading off it with my voltmeter, I thought it might be because i removed all the light bulbs?

Man i need to get my interior done. Cant wait.

I offered him 1.3 Million buy it now... I don't know why he didn't take it.

Hey guys, I have been reading threads all day trying to get my speedhut tach to work with my rb26. I am more confused now than when i started, so i figure why not get yelled at too. The speedhut requires a negitive coil/tach output. I have it hooked up to the timing light connector's white wire right now, but it isnt working. I also hear you can use ecu pin 7 and a 10k resister (pull up). I would like to hear from someone that has already got it working. Do i clip the loop wire on the back of the tach or not and so on?

No, it seems like sarcasm isn't welcome here :(

Your so fulla crap, I don't believe you.