ZT-R

awweee nice

I would like to see how much those turbos make.

oem rb26 injectors are 10.5mm. I used them on my 11mm rail (rb26 not 25). You just need to find the right thick orings. Aftermarket injectors are usually 11mm with 10.5 as an option.

Are you going to need new oem nissan fenders for molds? If so maybe someone can help out.

It will smoke if your idling for an extended amount of time. It would be nice to put it on an RPM switch so its vented atmosphere below say 5000 then vents exhaust over 5000. I will probably do something like that. Updates. I got the speedhuts in and tweeked. Dash is done, it came out pretty good, but i still want a carbon fiber one. Got her on the dyno but I loose the clutch disk after 300 tq so I am gonna find a twin disk I think. I would like to run a hydraulic throwout bearing if i can. Anyway here are some pics. Dyno Video 9psi 3rd gear to 7800 (139mph) Dyno Hopefully that link will work for you guys, not sure.

Hey guys, I need a new clutch as i loose mine after 300 tq. I am looking at doing a hydrulic throw out bearing like quartermaster style. I have seen this setup in person and its pretty impressive and kinda cheap (around the 220 range). Here are a few pics of what I am talking about. Is anyone running this? I am running a R34 pull type transmission so i would have to convert to push, but i dont think that would be an issue. Anyone having issues with a twin disk on the street? Are they loud as hell? Apparently Quartermaster reccommends a 3/4 master cylinder. Here is there website. Quartermaster

Anyone?

Boy do I know that feeling.

Hey guys, my 240z has the choke light and the defroster wires jerry rigged into the back of the fuse panel. I am in the process of reinstalling my dash and don't know where these go (mainy the defrost as i have a motorswap).I dont even see the defrost on the wiring diagram.

Mine works but i noticed the other day i hit the housing that holds the contacts (i have the cover off) with my hand and lost all the lights, wiggled it around and they came back on. so i will have to take it apart and clean it up, check there.

Well, no go here. I am using the OEM rb26 style tps (i replaced this one with a q45) here is a comparison. Maybe i bought the wrong ford one?? Advance auto parts part number is EC3314P. You can't really tell in the pic but the oem rb26 had the D style pin, the ford does not.

Hey guys, I have been having trouble keeping a working Q45 TPS in my car. I have been looking around and hear about some people using ~92 ford mustang TPS. So i ran down and got one for 25 bucks. Without having mine off the car, Im not sure if this is gonna work or not. I guess i will grab my stock plenum and see if it bolts up as it is easier to get to than the TB on my setup. It's a standard 3 wire (doesnt have the WOT contact switch like the Auto Trans ones have).

Ok, we got it. Ground Gray/Red and hook up pin 53 on the ecu to the yellow/red wire (or vise versa as it does not matter.) and then you need to edit the calibration to read the right speed. In AEMTuner, go to sensors, then right click in the white area and go to Show options full list display, then scroll to VSS calibration. I am using 110 currently and its pretty close, but i need to fine tune it later.

Is he using the oem cluster? If so, that is going to be different as it "converts" the signal so the ecu can read it. Granted i have an AEM ems and not the oem ecu so maybe i can change some settings?

Will do, thank you yet again.

Hey guys i am trying to get my AEM s2 to see the VSS. Looking at the wiring diagrams the wires go to the cluster and then only one goes to the ecu. How would i wire this to the aem unit? I also have a speedhut speedo that i will hook up when i get around to it. My understanding is that the cluster modifies the signal. I do have a R34 cluster in my kitchen but I'm not using it (will sell it for 200 bux). Thanks.

Mine still cranks even not in neutral.

Ok, sorry for caps in the subject btw. I am on my work computer and i do all of quickbooks in caps.

Hey guys, I have the N1 oil pump modded for an external pickup. I had my stock oil pressure gauge hooked up and it was usually pegged high so i assumed it wasn't working to well. Anyway I got all my new speed huts installed and this thing idles at 50psi, cruises at 70ish, and anything more than cruise is pegged at 100. I am running mobile 1 synthetic 10w30 at the moment. I had speed hut send me another pressure sensor so when it gets here i can swap it out but i wanted to see what you guys were seeing too. I wouldn't think 5w30 would make a huge difference but maybe it would? (oh i don't have my oil cooler hooked up at the moment but that should really make a difference.

HKS super sequential. I will have to post some audio of it. It sounds bad ass but doesnt sound like the blow off. After the initial blow off or 2 it as engine rpm come down (say i let off at 5k) as it goes to say 4k it sounds like someone opening a coke but not quite that distinguished, maybe muffled. Then at 3900 another coke, and 3850 a diet dr pepper followed by a throw back mt dew at 3800.

for the window crank i got 10 3/4" in from the front and 9 3/4" up from the bottom. BUT THIS WAS OFF THE DOOR ITSELF, NOT THE PANNEL. I would rather someone with a panel chime in.

I didnt hook mine up and it ran fine, matter of fact i just plugged it in yesterday. Guess i should see if it works.

Are you still selling it? Was that your manifold on ebay?

Are these from the Z-Store? Sorry for bad pics. They appear to be fiberglass with a layer of carbon fiber on the outside.

Hey guys, i dont have my intakes installed yet but driving my carn when i get into boost and let off, my blow off valve vents and then as the engine rpms are coming down the turbos sound like they are outgasing or something. Is this compressor surge or is this normal? I dont know if you will hear this with filters on it or not.