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24OZ

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Everything posted by 24OZ

  1. I found this video helpful and gives you n idea where you should be striking the carrier
  2. Thanks guys that exactly what I meant. Whilst I completely disassembled the outer cvs and took all the bearings apart, I couldn't see how to remove the inner cv bearings. On the loose one though I did fill it up with mineral spirits to clean it thoroughly and perhaps it's a lot cleaner then the other side and hence more looser.
  3. In your pic 1 have the shaft in the vice vertically with the inner cv pointing down. Use a dead blow hammer and strike the gear as close to the shaft as possible while holding the inner cv in your other hand to support it as it comes off.
  4. Hi Jon, I don't have the axle shafts inserted in the diff yet, just noticed that the input shaft movement was a lot stiffer then the other side, which just droops.
  5. I've just completed the Jon Mortensen Axle shaft swap and I noted that one of the input shafts is really floppy, whereas the other isn't as loose. What causes this looseness, is it an issue and how to I go about fixing it? Thanks.
  6. Not sure of exact make but they are similar to compomotive FH500
  7. Just a point to make in case anyone misses it..... Even though the ends look very similar, they are sided, if you look closely at each end you will notice either an I or an O, for Inner and Outer.
  8. No, I just need one to run a turbo dizzy i have.
  9. I've heard this kind of feedback from others I know who have dealt with him too. It's sad as he stocks a lot of nice OEM parts but out of principal I won't deal with him due to what I've heard.
  10. I'm impressed, that's very ingenious, Mad Max style.
  11. On the side of the block close to the oil filter you will see a brass cylindrical type fitting screwed into the block, this is your oil pressure sender. Check to make sure the wire that plugs into the top hasn't come loose, which could be why you're having a Zero reading,
  12. **** P? I would love to have a go at this but when you already have an extensively port and polished head it doesn't sound such a good idea! I'd rather have a go with a head that I've yet to spend money on port work, just in case things go wrong! Awesome thread Peter.
  13. Thanks for the write ups and advice, it's given me the confidence to go ahead and do this and so far I've found it a very satisfying task! I noted in the Parts microfiche for the Z31 turbo that there appears to be different part numbers for the grease used for the inner and outer joint? Why is there a difference, what's the significance of this? Can you recommend what different greases I should use and which ones for which joint. Thanks.
  14. This shaft is just for the 280zx turbo dizzy. Let me know, cheerZ.
  15. Arizona ZCAR make one, check out their brake page for further info.
  16. I think with the McKinneys the bonnet won't shut unless you notch the hood?? They may have found a solution to this it's been a while since i checked the thread.
  17. Try emailing him and attaching the picture so he can see what you are referring to, GARY MEEKINÂ (coyotegary@hotmail.com)
  18. That is awesome. So how did you get from design to paper to aluminium? Does the design software create a print and you cut out the shapes? Is the software freely available? I'd love to learn how to do this.
  19. I have one of those Champion ones and mine just sprung a leak. I won't be buying that cheap stuff again!
  20. I'm looking for a 280ZX turbo dizzy shaft, please let me know if you have one for sale and how much you're asking. I have paypal. Thanks.
  21. I'm not sure if you guys caught this final post on this thread, which summed up everything nicely: http://forums.finalgear.com/the-smoking-tire-episode-discussion/ford-gt-vs-ferrari-250-gto-44210/page-7/
  22. Did you ever work this out? I will be doing this mod and interested in your progress.
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