280zwitha383

What I usually do is go to walmart, get their Everstart(?) Maxx with the highest amps I can find, pay the $60 and have 3 years of peace of mind. Free replacement within the 3 years and after that they'll give you a pro-rated discount on your next battery. And you can collect on the warranty anywhere there is a walmart.

Ask him what paint he used if you will.

Ditto. I'm surprised the fusible link didn't melt sooner from what you say. Insulate/replace whatever shorted (should be obvious by the smoke around the wires), secure fuse box, replace fusible link. It SHOULD really be that simple.

Did he drive it and then tell you that? You need to figure out what's up with your current setup. Throwing heads and a cam won't do you any good unless it is a mechanical problem. I doubt the cam is wiped because they're roller lifters (aren't they?) and you would probably hear some chatter if something gave. Do you know anyone who could help you or maybe someone on here is close. Something simple is probably wrong with it.

I must have a different fan then what you guys are talking about. The fan that I have is out of a 98 Taurus I think and about two years ago I opened it up and even though it has 3 terminals, two of them are basically connected (one for ground and two for power). That's what my hang up is I think. I guess with the one I have the speeds were controlled by different relays/current. I do have one LARGE fan from a V6? Mustang that may or may not be like the one that you have. Maybe I'll give it a shot if I'm still borderline cooling this summer. I guess that's why noone has answered my question because they have no idea what I'm talking about

Yeah, that's what I was thinking but not what I was saying. So... the higher amp relay is what gives you the "high speed" right?

I don't see why those wouldn't work. I mean they connect the two terminals at a certain temperature. I would run a ground through the switch as opposed to running 12v (you probably already know that).

The gold stripes on the fenders in the engine pictures are a good giveaway too. Good call.

Conventional wisdom would suggest you get forged pistons right about now. Blah blah they're cheap insurance blah blah. They're probably around $400 and you will appreciate them if you ever detonate. Hyperucrackedit pistons will shatter at the thought of detonation, probably go through your whole engine and then bye bye whole engine. People still get by with using them all the time... Just something you should know before you hit the buy it now.

This guy in the next town ran an ad in the paper and I talked to him about two weeks ago. He said he bought the engine from a friend with intentions of putting it into his 280ZX and that THAT engine was what made him want to work on his car. He says he thinks it has around 80k miles on it and that it has a long tube header. He described it as going from 6 to 3 to 2 so I'm assuming this is the 3-2-1 header. I asked him if he would take $150 for it (it was listed as $300) and he said he would take $250 for it. I know you can't hardly buy a header for that much (atleast I haven't seen them). How good of a deal is this? I don't really have $250 to spend on ANOTHER engine but I do have a use for it in the near future and I would really like a header. ???? (I would REALLY like a turbo l28)

The only hurdle in retrofitting roller lifters on a non-roller block is keeping them from turning and wiping out the cam. Turning meaning instead of the roller rolling on the cam it turns sideways and the side of the roller F'ing everything up. For the retrofit rollers you have the connectors as you see between the two. On a block with a factory roller setup you have retainers and a spider tray to hold the retainers down, the lifters are flat where they fit into the retainers (which keeps them straight): i'm taggin out

Grumpy beat me to it and I didn't even notice at the time... Corzette, how did you decide on that cam? Edit: PMS, the AFR's would be better of course but that's a pretty good deal for those heads.

Well, In my 383 (that also has Dart Iron Eagle heads except they're 215cc) I have an SLP 51010 which is a little under cammed. PERSONALLY I would have put a Comp XR282 and at the time I thought the SLP cam was about the same (as a 276hr) but come to find out with the valve openings and closings it's really not. Now these are roller cams and you have a flat-tappet of course. IF I WERE YOU I would retro-fit a roller cam and run an XR282, but I tend to favor smaller cams than most. Here's my SLP cam specs: dur @ .050 - 224/232 1.5 Rocker - .490/.510 1.6 Rocker - .522/.544 Lobe Sep - 112deg I think the conventional duration would be something like 280/284 which if you read between the lines it spends a large amount of time under .050 lift and that's kind of uh.. unigue. Grumpy likes crane cams but I couldn't really tell you why. Here's a good thread and there are tons more from grumpyvette if you'd like a good read: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=121789&highlight=383+cam

Actually that cam has to go. Flat-tappet cams can be had for around $100 and if you're already planning on a stroker kit and heads the cam is what needs to be changed. The XE250 puts you at a little more torque but cuts you down to about 325hp

Those are relatively large heads. And that is a pretty small cam. If you're going to use that cam I would think you would want some heads with smaller runners. Right around 200cc. Now if you want those heads you will benefit greatly from a larger cam. What do you want to do with the vehicle?

That sucks about the 300. Cruise over to http://www.google.com when you're looking for practically anything. You have to be careful with wording because search engine aren't smart. For example, if the page you're looking for says Chebby v8 and you type in Chevy V8, or Chevrolet V8 then it's not going to find it.

Why are there not more intakes like these? It seems for everything but V8's individual throttle bodies are the hot ticket (atleast one of them for n/a engines). Are these pretty much for drag/high rpm engines? It just seems odd something like this isn't really popular. And it would be nice if they were more popular because they would probably be cheaper.

I think they've done the tornado and putting magets around fuel lines. I know there are fifty more but I can't think of any right now.

I thought I would update in case anyone searching might have the same situation (wishful thinking maybe). I ordered the bronze tipped pushrod from O'reilly's for $15. I took the old one out and it wasn't as worn as I thought. It was not rounded off as I remembered it but wore in a U shape. Put the new one in and took it for about a mile drive. No bueno. Pulled the pushrod out and it was chewed up pretty bad relatively. I was hesitant to take it back (haha) but they took it even with me mentioning the wear and how my cam lobe must be ate to hell. They didn't bother to look at it and that was well enough for me. Anyway, I ordered a knockoff holley red off of ebay, put that loud sucker on and all is well with the world. I'm amazed I can hear the thing over me stupid loud exhaust but I usually have the music cranked so I don't usually hear it. Would a regular holley electric pump be that loud?

Is a golfcart sufficient for hunting boar?! I've only ever hunted wabbits (got s skunk once and some packrats) but I've heard of boars charging trucks and F'ing them up pretty well. I don't know how fast they are but when I read golfcart my eyes got big.

I talked to a guy who had a '76 Stingray that I wanted. He had an RS/SS in his garage and claimed they were extremely rare and that someone had already offered him $80k for it (in pieces). I know very little about old muscle cars (unfortunately) and I had never heard of an RS AND an SS in one car so for all I knew it was worth big $$$. Fix it up and put it on Barret Jackson. You could retire.

I've got two 600 holley here but I would bet they've both had different powervalves put in them. The above is good advice. Holley recommends getting a powervalve that is half of the vacuum at idle (sitting in gear with an auto and in neutral with a standard). 3lbs less might give you a little quicker response but I don't think it's a difference that you could feel without seeing a difference at a track.

you're joking I hope Do you know Jason Mulkey?

No offense but I think you're dreaming on that one. Flywheel sure but not to the wheels. 1. More than likely depending on how hard you launch. 2. Google... probably not with hard launches. I've talked to a guy with a non-turbo rearend running low 13's with a single turbo VG30 (?) and he said he could launch a lot harder if his axles would hold up. 3. Google 4. You might ask someone on here who has done the swap. Anything else would be guesstimations.