280zwitha383

and why did you decide on that particual engine?

LESD, please let us know your progress with the kit.

I say build for more hp than what you will need/want. You can always go easier on the peddle. ::::caughboostedv8cough::::

The problem with most of those posts is that people are just repeating over and over again that the stuff is junk. There is the infamous picture of the turbo splitting in half of course. I have seen one thread where a guy documented his success with one of their turbos on his truck for about a year and that was like a 3 year old post so who knows what ever happened to it. Seems like it was on turbo mustangs or something completely unrelated (it was a chevy truck IIRC). Anyway, if I had money to burn I would give them a shot. As it is if I was you I might consider buying headers, bov, wastegate and intercooler from them. I'm not sure I would chance it on the turbos unless I bought the whole kit for $650 (because I would already have them). Just my opinion.

Za link meister!

There are some on ebay but like you say I don't know if anyone's ever used them (haha). SSautochrome (SSautocrap) sells some for a few hundred bucks but I don't know if they'd be worth their weight in piss. I say it jokingly but I really don't think anyone has ever used them, people assume they are junk which they probably are but..... http://www.ssautochrome.com/level.itml/icOid/1354 They have complete kits too but EVERYONE says run away from their turbo's. So really it's a gamble. Yes, you do get what you pay for. Yes it might be all hype. Good luck either way.

The comments are hilarious. Supposedly the boy said that that just happens sometimes.

Bad day maybe?

Uh, it will still put out 300hp as stated and still hang until the end. If it is geared more for torque on the highway it could beat the turbo'd engine np. The WHOLE point I'm trying to make is peak numbers don't mean anything. The area under the curve in the rpm range a car will see the most time in is what really matters. If the turbocharged car is set up right it may or may not be peaky (somewhat dependent on the size of the engine) and may or may not be able to beat (at any speed) a much larger cubic inch engine that has power through the whole rpm range. You can't just say the turbo car will pull more mph period. You can't! So in Guy's case. Say they both make 370whp. Well if guy's car goes from 4500-6000 through the gears and at 4500 he's making 350whp but the neon is only making 325hp at its lower rpm range it will be seeing and assuming the time between shifts is the same, guy will win (all other things being equal). If guy made a flat 350hp through his rpm range he would still hang with him. Perhaps yet another reason you think like this is because the cars with the smaller turbo'd engines are usually lighter (and maybe newer w/ better aerodynamics) so once they 1. get traction 2. build boost and 3. have their weight and aerodynamics begin to work more so to their advantage than a heavier car that a bigger n/a engine will usually be in, it might seem they build more top end regardless of what they're up against. We will either agree or disagree but I don't want to take up any more of Guy's thread so I will (at the very least try to) not respond further.

Don't get me wrong. I mean no offense and I have taken no offense. But let's looks at your example. 300hp turbo vs. 300hp n/a (not linked to any known cars at the moment just theoretical). Really it could go either way and by a lot. All other things being equal, you could have a peaky sub-2 liter motor that is turbo'd but can't hold its weight down low for anything and you could run this against a n/a big block XXX. They both make the same amount of hp but the bb will rape the smaller, peakier engine. Now on the other hand say you have the same smaller engine but it's been set up with a proper sized turbo and makes good power all around and put that against a huge-cammed 4 banger that has to crank up the rpms to start making power. Of course the turbo'd engine will win and could possibly hold its own against the bb. My point is you can't just say because everything else is equal and one has a turbo that the turbo engine will "gain on the top end" or have a better mph. It all depends on the setup and a lower hp motor can easily beat a higher hp motor for a slew of different reasons. I'm sure you agree with me but it's not evident in what you are saying. And I do see that you seem to be talking about these specific cars but the point still remains.

I think maybe you think that because turbo cars (4 cylinders more so than the rest) are slower on the bottom end (that thought is further entertained by the fact that you throw in FWD cars with high boost have better top end)... Horsepower is horsepower no matter how you get it. Again, just because you've got a turbo doesn't mean it will out pull anything. Turbos make engines wonderfully efficient I agree but not unbeatable by any means. He's already hanging with him as it is, with tuning and maybe a different cam he should be able to beat him. A lot depends on the gearing of both cars and many other factors also of course.

He must be computer illiterate or we would have seen this thing surely.

Sharp car. The clutch came with the car you say? That dude must have really done some custom work! J/k.

Just because you've got a turbo doesn't mean you can't be spanked. Good luck on your goal 80lt1.

The front end of them kind of throws me off but other than that I like them. Sold a Ford for a Chevy? Do you not like the new Fords or what?

That's cool. I wonder if we have a faceplate and dog (??) laying around somewhere. Both our lathes have 6-way jaws and I just couldn't imagine how you could ever get a crank true and not injure yourself. Thanks!

Would the 283 be worth anything (more than any old sbc) to someone with the same year(s) corvette?

See, the guy that taught me was telling me about another guy he was trying to get to come work with us who could do cranks on the engine lathes we have. I can't really see how you could do the rod journals. Please enlighten me

Well I just got as far as rods and a block in my mind but I was thinking about doing something like this at work. I don't think I will now.... I can't imagine trying to make a crank or a block with a mill with dial gauges. Aluminum would seem to be the way to go though.... Good luck.

The paint looks amazing!

With a 3.90 and stock tires I was hitting right at 5k in the 1/8th. I have a 2500 stall converter and I should have 450hp/450tq. In reality I probably have/had less hp than that because at the time I was running out of 1 1/2" headers and a single 2.5" exhaust. I have also never messed with the jets at the track because I don't think it will do any good with the skinny tires I am running. This is also in a ZX which is generally accepted to be heavier also so that might even out some of the power difference. You can also manually type in your transmission gears and differential ratio. http://www.geocities.com/z_design_studio/ I was hitting 88mph in the 1/8th and I was pretty sure I wasn't at 6k like this thing says I should be but that's what this calculator says and that's without the torque converter spinning. Use 4th gear to figure out the top end as that is the 1:1 ratio of the 5 speed. It looks like 110+ is about an 11 second or low 12 second 1/4 mile time which you're probably not going to do so you should be good?

I like the setup. What was the old engine running?

This corvette is going to be the end of any financial prosperity I would ever hope for. Anyway, I'm pretty sure the engine is not making power up to par however once the transmission shifts it has enough power to accelerate moderately in 3rd. I haven't hooked a tach up to it but it has a 3.08 rearend from what I can tell from spinning the wheel/watching the driveshaft and it has 255/70?/15 wheels on it. I don't know if those are stock but they look huge on the car. ANYWAY, the transmission will take off in second unless you get on it right off of the line which seems strange to me. So you're going in second for forever with the engine making the old WHHHIRRRRR sound. Then it will shift after seemingly an eternity but probably only say 5 seconds. It will also shift if you let off of the gas a good bit. 1st to second is not as bad but like I say to get it into 1st you have to get on it or manually put it in 1st. Now what gets me about this thing is that if you're cruising around 55 (can't tell for sure because the speedo doesn't work despite having the cable hooked up...) it will quickly kick into 1st and off you go hardly any slipping or anything. Now, I THINK I have the proper level of fluid in it. The dipstick that came with it is a different length than the other ones I have but I tried to go off of the split where it stabilizes itself in the tube (does that make any sense to anyone, I looked for a picture on google but nada. Maybe I'll have to take one myself) and line that up with the split on the longer dipstick I have. I know for sure that I've ran it with too little fluid and it did the same thing. Last time I think I added 3? additional quarts to it because it was leaking out of where the speedo cable is (somebody doesn't know what it feels like when you're cross-threading things). This thing did sit for a while with too little fluid in it so I don't know if that would have ill effects on the cluthes or whatnot. Also, the kickdown cable has proper movement at the throttle and the transmission as well. I have tried blocking off the brake booster and the pcv with the same results. For some reason this holley carb doesn't have the usual large port up front for the pcv so the booster, pcv and tranny vacuum all are run into the same thing. I have tried it without the vacuum hooked up at all and with the vacuum hooked up to the non-ported port where some people would hook the vacuum advance of the distributor. It really didn't want to shift with the vacuum not hooked up at all which was expected but it didn't have the usual action I'm used to them having, like when an appropriate time to shift comes along you can move the shifter from whatever gear you're in to the next gear and the transmission will shift. Now as you may have already realized I know next to nothing about transmissions so any insight would be great. Thanks.

Yeah, that will give you a really good idea what's going on. For example my friends magnum 318 had gas in the oil. We did a compression test on it and #8 cylinder wouldn't even bump a compression gauge. I just imagined a rod going up and down with no piston on it... He messed his bearings up of course because of the gas and now he's going to try and sell it for a couple 100 bucks. Awesome, if the tranny and rearend seem good then fix or swap that engine and enjoy.

So is the flapper the rubber-like part that covers the holes around the center (screw on) part of the filter? I know in another thread someone was saying that the ones with orange silicone flappers are better than black because the black will harden. I bought a Mobil 1 filter at walmart and it has a visible large spring in it (hopefully not the low pressure bypass valve) and an orange seal of sorts behind the holes. Fram tough guard did not have the spring (visible) and their piece was black. Sooo, I wanted to know before I put the filter on the car and got no benefit from it.