mario_82_ZXT

Cayman S with a hood scoop IMHO Mario

Did you set the timing as per the sticky? ie, found tdc on compression for #1, then backed it off ~50-60, made the MS led turn on by moving the dizzy, then tightening down the dizzy? My trigger angle is somewhere around there, but I have no trigger addition. Sorry, don't know about the side-effects though, Mario

Hmm, I guess its a little late now, but did you have it set to control dwell? With the high current driver circuit, the MS box must control dwell, where as in the old way, the HEI does. Mario

Nice! Get the other car to race you next time, or have the video in car. Sounds nice! Mario

Are you sure all the settings in the ignition part are correct? Another question, did you type in all the values with the box connected and powered on? Reason I ask is I know of 3 instances where setting up the .msq file seperately without the box connected ended up in code corruption, and really weird symptons (mine wouldn't save my spark settings, and reset every time the box lost power). Mario

Z wheels are hub centric for one, I think..... Mario

One of the best ways to test the MS ECU is to get a stim, a DVM, and run the tests in the assembly manual. The serial communications section might be inadequately soldered. Mario

I'd say running lean but since it was good in cold weather, I don't know, since the problem should be more pronounced. Does it have a TPS? I know some cars are real touchy with that, the 300zx comes into mind. Mario

I might be getting one, but the bad thing is I won't be able to attempt an install till the spring. Mario

Yea, talk about a rude awakening earlier this morning...... Mario

Why the SU's on the stroker? I've heard that they barely flow enough for stroker builds. Why not go tripples or even EFI? Mario

Holyl SH**! That's a little kids/teenager's website that both my younger sisters frequent a lot..... It's about japanese anime/manga and stuff.... Well, good luck to him, and good luck to you to Mike. Mario

I can't wait till its done, it looks so absolutely amazing! Congrats! Makes me miss my Zs even more Good luck, Mario

Sweet tutorial, now I want a tranny to do this on. 1 fast Z also does the mods at his shop for this as well. I think he's running one of these boxes on his new build, I want one because they are much newer, hopefully stronger, and short shifters are easily available. Mario

Thats a completely different head. The S20 is different then the L series engine, my understanding has it that this head will not bolt onto an L series block. The DOHC head for the L series was manufactured by OS Giken, as by the S20 was factory Nissan. There us an LY head though too, but I don't remember if that was for the S20 or not. I'm sure if they want to, Tony D, H-S30H, and others could respond with a lot more valuable information. Or you could just look in the archives Mario

I have the same problem on my computer. If its a WMP movie, I make it full screen and the video appears. If its a Flash Player one, I think you might be missing a codec. Mario

If it was already loose, and just retightened, that might be a problem. Jeff P and Tony D have commented on this before I believe..... The FSM states that you shouldn't reuse the bolt and washer, but others have stated that it is fine unless the washer has been damaged or overtightened. I believe one of the best ways to fix this is to get the bolt from NISMO and the washer from a certain model Volvo and machine it down, or something to that extent. It might be outlined on Jeff P's website, or maybe you could send him a PM, but I know I've read about it before. I've alse read story about the balancer coming off and going through the radiator or sometimes through the hood. Mario

With all those electrical problems, are you even sure it's overheating? The alternator or voltage regulator might be at fault, especially if they are really old and your electric fan pulls a lot of juice. Mario

TB is included. Design looks iffy for NA, looks good for boosted applications. Isn't the TB included? Mario

Email I recieved: Yes, the springs are including as a complete set. The spring rate is 8kg/mm = 448lbs/in Heavy Duty front and rear. You can also have choice of 10kg/mm = 560lbs/in Racing Sport setup for additional charge. If like to have lightweight springs please advice also available for 6kg/mm = 335lbs/in upon special request. We value your business. If you have any questions or concerns, please be sure to let us know. Feel FREE to visit our site at: http://www.cosmoracing.com It is EASY, FAST and SAFE and we accept most of CARDS Payment Online and Money Order. Thanks, Paul ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ I doubt it's driveable on the street! Mario

Has anyone seen this? Talk about cheap! Any thoughts? eBay coilovers Mario

I remember someone at some point had tranny slipping issues at ~14psi, but the tranny was old and never had been rebuilt. I also remember hearing about someone doing a performance rebuild on an auto. I think a wiser choice might be the 4 speed Starion TURBO tranny swap, I also doubt the z31 tranny is the same/easily adaptable onto the L28. Mario

Damn, halloween must've been sweet in your neighborhood. It was foggy and drizzly here, but I didn't care, I spent it with a close friend in Chicago for a dinner and a movie. Mario

I wish...... Mario

Well, being Z-less really blows (or car less for that matter), so I joined the college SAE Mini Baja team. Well, we have one car that's almost done, and we will be designing one from the ground up this year as well. As of now I think I am going to be working/designing the braking system. The car is like an oversized go-kart, with a 10hp motor, coil-over suspension, and 4 wheel disc brakes. The rules are as follows: 1. There must be 2 independent brake circuits 2. The brakes must be able to lock all 4 wheels both while moving and not. 3. It must have brakes on all 4 wheels. As of now, the brakes are plumbed with a reservoir/cylinder to 1 front, and 1 opposite rear. ie The front right with the left rear. The car has only been run once (not competed), and they had problems with unequal braking distribution. The pedal only had one adjustment that would change both cylinders at the same time. This is my idea: Use each cylinder for either both front or both right. Machine a new brake pedal to allow for two adjusters, that way the car now has control of front and rear brake bias. Is it a good idea to run a front circuit seperate to the rear one? Or should I leave it crossed? I believe if a line is cut/damaged, that entire circuit loses pressure, but it would be better to have the remaining brakes on the car be either the front or rear right, not one of each? Now, for performance, the front should lock before the rear right? Questions, comments, suggestions, please help! Thanks, Mario