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Showing results for tags 'CARB'.
Found 9 results
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Nearly complete with my Mikuni 44PPH restoration but in search of the final piece. I believe these are the stock velocity stacks but I could be wrong, I have 5 that are in good shape and 1 that is completely destroyed. Looking for 1 air horn to match the set (don't feel like spending $300+ on a whole new set just yet) Basic dimensions are: Carb matting side diameter: 48mm Open air side diameter: ~78mm Height: 50mm If you have more than 1 available I would be interested in picking up extra as well.
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I am on the search for a complete set of use-able / rebuild-able triple DCOE carburetors. Either 45mm Weber's or 44mm Mikunis is what I'm looking for. I would need everything to install into a 280z with an L28. Can work on trades as well, please see my for sale posting. -
Hello All, I have an oportunity to pickup another good condition 240Z. I believe it's a 71. The owner says the motor is a performance motor, but she's not sure because it belonged to her EX...I'm not familiar with the L28 so what should I be looking for? Any pointers or suggestions is greatly appreciated.
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Hello all from Australia, Long time browser, first time poster here because I finally can't find the information I'm looking for! First off, my name's Adam and I have a 1973 240z which is currently running a standard L28, N42 head/block combo, with brand new triple 45mm OER carburetors, and Trust headers to a twin 2" exhaust system. I have just installed a new set of OER carbs I purchased from Japan and am having difficulties sorting out the idle/low speed cruise setting. Bit of details into the setup, 45mm carbs 34mm venturis #190 air correctors (not yet tested to see if these are the best) #130 mains #60 idles #40 pump nozzle #1.8 needle valve 3.5psi fuel pressure from the mechanical fuel pump into Holley regulator 31mm fuel level using the OER level gauge. Idle screws are setup so that the first progression hole is just 100% covered looking through the brass cap/inspection hole. Carbs are balanced the best I can using a unisyn. I have a wide-band O2 sensor probe in the tail pipe. I am running 98 octane fuel. Timing is at 15 BTDC with no vacuum advance connected. Valve clearances have recently been adjusted. Now, onto the problem I am having.. Driving with the #60 idles installed, 1 full turn of the mixture screw turned out, slow acceleration and cruise is very rich, 10.5 and 11.5 AFRs respectively. I also have #50 idles on hand which I have installed to try and improve the current rich scenario and I cannot even get them to idle. With mixture screws out 1.5 full turns (recommended range is only 3/4 to 1 full turn), they cannot idle on their own, only when I blimp the throttle which I believe is activating the pump jets. With the #50s installed, AFRs are off the scale in the lean area. They can't idle let alone drive. My question is, is going down from a #60 to a #50 idle jet that big of a jump that the car can no longer idle on its own? Or is there something wrong with my idle screw setup? I would have thought that with the #50s installed, it would at least idle and drive albeit a tad lean.. OER offer a #55, but I would like to double check with the experts out there first before spending that money. Any help would be appreciated. And please let me know if I am missing some information, I tried to be as detailed as possible. Thanks, Adam
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I have an L24 with SU carbs. I've had this idea of the ability to go from carbs to EFI and back relatively easily.This would require a bolt on replacement for the carbs. I'd still be using the stock intake runners and air cleaner. I'd also try to keep the TBs the same length as the carbs. This is what I've doodled so far. This uses a compact EV14 injector: http://www.bosch-motorsport.de/media/catalog_resources/Injection_Valve_EV_14_Datasheet_51_en_2775993867pdf.pdf Some fuel rail I found the dimensions of: http://www.rossmachineracing.com/images/large/dash8wire.jpg And the flange patterns from the SUs. This drawing lacks stuff still. The idle air intake, I figure, could go on the sides of the TBs facing each other and be plumbed to a T where one adjustment screw handles both the TBs idle. The placement of the injector is arbitrary. I just plopped it there and it worked out that the fuel rail doesn't interfere with the stock air cleaner (orange line). It's angle's just 45*. I'm not sure how evenly the fuel would be distributed down the 3 asymmetrical runners with this set up. Probably over thinking that though. The placement of the throttle plate is arbitrary as well. I've merely spaced it 1 cm from the flange to provide room for bolting on the air cleaner. These should retain most of the stock throttle linkage too. This drawing also assumes that both the front and rear of the SUs are 44 mm inside diameter and coaxial. I'm not sure about this. I know next to nothing about injectors. According to some megasquirt literature though; If I want the capability to fuel around 150 HP then I need 2 injectors around 500 cc/min each. Any reasons why this might not be feasible? -
Many of us know how difficult it is to get our later model V8 280z cars thru California smog inspection. While pre-1976 Z cars are smog exempt, anyone with a 77 or 78 Z car had to deal with CARB referee. Today I was looking at the CARB rulebook and I saw the following statement: "Vehicles with collector motor vehicles insurance policies that are at least 35 MYs years old are exempt from the visual inspection [as required by subdivision (f) of Section 44012 of the Cal. Health and Safety Code], but must comply with the emissions standards for its model year and pass a functional inspection of the fuel cap and a visual inspection for liquid fuel leaks" My vehicle is not my primary vehicle and a collector car policy thru Hagerty Insurance only cost $350 per year. I have always believed that the California Air Board should be concern about what comes out of my tailpipe not is under my hood. A properly tuned catalytic converter equipped LT1, LS1 should easily blow cleaner than a 35 year old L28. My 78 has just reached the 35 year mark and this would make the biannual smog inspection much easier. Has anyone attempted to use this loophole yet? -
Doing a slow restore on a 72 240 i picked up. Weber 45s were having some trouble sneezing and leaking so took them off to clean em up and replace gaskets, set floats etc. Noticed these adjustment screws which i find no mention of in Haynes manual, or any online reference ive found. These are the later 152s with nitrophyl/spansil floats so im thinking it was a modification on later models? has a white plastic hat/cover. one on each throat. with plastic cover removed needle screw with fastener nut needle pokes through main venturu/choke into carb throat (upper right)
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Hello, recently i just recently purchased a used set of weber 40 dcoe. But basically i am missing a few parts such as the three eye joints that screw on to the manifold, and one butterfly and throttle shaft. What had happened was i bought the set of webers that had the three pieces of linkage missing so i new i was going to need those. But me being an idiot i was disassembling the first carb without penetrating fluid so i stripped the heads of the screws that hold the butterfly and the throttle shaft in place and i had to drill out the holes. But the throttle shaft needed to be replaced anyways since one of the ends threads were stripped. So basically i need one throttle shaft, one butterfly, and three of the eye joints that screw in to the manifold. The carbs seem to be fairly old italian weber Dcoe 18 No. 9E ,with a cannon manifold. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
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Hello hybrid z I have a question regarding the triple weber carb kit that is for L series engines. Well i am planning on getting the carb kit but i'm not sure which one to get. Here is a video of my car specs on the engine are in the description. Not sure what cam but here is what i think it is Grind: 17036. Lift(In/Ex): .495/.495. Duration(In/Ex): 290/290 any thoughts on this.
