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Showing results for tags 'carbs'.
Found 15 results
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Have a triple set of SK 40mm carbs. Comes with isolators, filter gaskets, and master rebuild kits. Asking 1000 OBO. These use a combination of weber jets and mikuni pump jets and can be used in blow through turbo setups.
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Hello hybrid Z! Undergoing an engine swap I no longer need my 3 screw SU’s - These will be cleaned up before sending. You get : (2) SU’s Throttle Linkage balance tube intake manifold e46 (I think) pricing is $450 for it all + Shipping. These carbs came off my RUNNING Z before I decided on my LS Swap. I take - Zelle , PayPal or cash Please reach out with any questions! - Don inalso have a Air Box OR K&N filters if you need these as well.
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hello everyone! im new here but ive had my 280 for 2 years now. the engine turns over but it will never fire up. ive switched out plenty of relays and electrical components, cleaned out the fuel lines and installed new fuel pump. ive just decided to scrap the EFI system and switch to carburators. i was wondering if this would be the right place to ask the right person for some good but affordable carbs that will fit onto my 280z (cali model) thanks
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I'm in need of Su round top floats but I can't find anything on the internet that is not priced ridiculously. Tried datsunparts.com but they took a week to process my order then changed the price from $32 to $60 last minute. Im located in Canada any help would be greatly appreciated! I really want to set up the round tops on my 260z and get it running. Thanks
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So with fall right around the corner, I'm preparing another small, and maybe final batch of Mikuni/Solex carb hoodies. This is a very small batch, with only 5 available in each size. The hoodies are made by Gildan, here are the specs: 8.0-ounce, 50/50 cotton/poly; no pill Air Jet Spun Yarn Double-needle stitching Double-lined hood with dyed-to-match drawcord Set-in sleeves Rib knit cuffs and waistband with spandex Front pouch pocket The hoodies will be ready to ship the second week of September. Typical price is $30, pre-order group buy price is $24.99! You can pre-order via hybrid-z or directly through the store.
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So i just got a 240z for my senior project and the internals of my stock flat top carbs are wrecked. I really dont have the funding for a new set of round top carbs right now so im desperately searching for some working flat tops or round tops! either works for me as long as i can get my z running. Let me know what you have!
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Hello All, I have an oportunity to pickup another good condition 240Z. I believe it's a 71. The owner says the motor is a performance motor, but she's not sure because it belonged to her EX...I'm not familiar with the L28 so what should I be looking for? Any pointers or suggestions is greatly appreciated.
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I am currently rebuilding/restoring a 1976 280z. I am located near Youngstown Ohio and would prefer large items to be within driving distance. Send me a message and we can discuss anything you may have. Items I'm looking for as follows: ZG flares Z432 rear spoiler or BRE Ground control coil-overs (280z) Camber Plates Toyota Front brakes vented or non-vented setups Rear Disc Conversion MSA 6-2 Headers (coated) MSA Twice pipes Fender Mirrors Rota RB stagger package wheels (black or gunmetal) Triple Carb setup (complete) Ignition Box Universal Fuse box and or Wiring Harness 5-Speed Transmission 280Z or ZX R200 LSD Flat top pistons (new not used) Cam (new not used)
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Recently replaced my fuel system on 70 240z. Started it back up last night after a few months of been idle. Started up a little lackluster but nothing uncommon. After two minutes of rough idle the carbs started to stutter or burble. I'm adding links to the youtube clips I took. I didn't run the engine for much longer just incase. Fuel system: tank - filter - pump - regulator - manifold - carb - carb - carb. Any thoughts? https://youtu.be/holqzub_U8w https://youtu.be/UyFgPYs0-fA
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Hello all from Australia, Long time browser, first time poster here because I finally can't find the information I'm looking for! First off, my name's Adam and I have a 1973 240z which is currently running a standard L28, N42 head/block combo, with brand new triple 45mm OER carburetors, and Trust headers to a twin 2" exhaust system. I have just installed a new set of OER carbs I purchased from Japan and am having difficulties sorting out the idle/low speed cruise setting. Bit of details into the setup, 45mm carbs 34mm venturis #190 air correctors (not yet tested to see if these are the best) #130 mains #60 idles #40 pump nozzle #1.8 needle valve 3.5psi fuel pressure from the mechanical fuel pump into Holley regulator 31mm fuel level using the OER level gauge. Idle screws are setup so that the first progression hole is just 100% covered looking through the brass cap/inspection hole. Carbs are balanced the best I can using a unisyn. I have a wide-band O2 sensor probe in the tail pipe. I am running 98 octane fuel. Timing is at 15 BTDC with no vacuum advance connected. Valve clearances have recently been adjusted. Now, onto the problem I am having.. Driving with the #60 idles installed, 1 full turn of the mixture screw turned out, slow acceleration and cruise is very rich, 10.5 and 11.5 AFRs respectively. I also have #50 idles on hand which I have installed to try and improve the current rich scenario and I cannot even get them to idle. With mixture screws out 1.5 full turns (recommended range is only 3/4 to 1 full turn), they cannot idle on their own, only when I blimp the throttle which I believe is activating the pump jets. With the #50s installed, AFRs are off the scale in the lean area. They can't idle let alone drive. My question is, is going down from a #60 to a #50 idle jet that big of a jump that the car can no longer idle on its own? Or is there something wrong with my idle screw setup? I would have thought that with the #50s installed, it would at least idle and drive albeit a tad lean.. OER offer a #55, but I would like to double check with the experts out there first before spending that money. Any help would be appreciated. And please let me know if I am missing some information, I tried to be as detailed as possible. Thanks, Adam
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So I recently got a 260z last month and this problem has finally gotten to me. The infamous post emissions Flat top SUs are bogging when I lay the pedal to the metal. They will just begin to barf gasoline out the overflow valve if I start it up and rev it while the carbs are still cold. But this especially happens up in the hills (In Alaska) and no matter how slow I start up the carbs they will bog and puke up good gasoline. All I can do is floor it till what I assume is the floats go back up. Usually all it takes is flooring it till it touches off on 5k revs. But this problem is very persistant and when I come down from the hills after the carbs go cold all they wanna do is bog for the next 5 to 10 minutes. Now I'm just gonna guess this problem is from sticky floats and fouled up Emission carbs. (cept for all the emissions are taken off because Alaska)
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Like the tittle says, i'm looking for a cannon or similar manifold. Please PM me here and we can work something out. Thanks! -Antonio
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Looking to buy a set of 3 matched Mikuni phh 44 carbs. Doesn't bother me if they are type S4 or S5. Either type will suit me and my needs. If seller has manifold as well this will be great. Pm me or email at onemorekay@gmail.com
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Not interested in Stock carbs. Solex mikuni Webers 40MM or 44MM Please don't sell me any junk they need to be in good condition.
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Hello fellow z owners i would like to see how much horse power i would be looking ad with an engine of these specs. >l28 >n42 head, ported polished, Lift(In/Ex): .560/.560. Duration(In/Ex): 300/300, kameari big valves >n42 block, ross forged 1mm over high comp pistons, 1mm head gasket >kameari high performance oil pump >later electronic distributer from 280zx >ztherapy su carbs >msa 6-1 headers 2.5" exhaust system Engine will also be about a 10.5:1 compression ratio
