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Showing results for tags 'rb'.
Found 9 results
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Hey all so will give you a quick rundown so I have an rb20det, she starts occasionally idles for a few minutes then shuts off and refuses to start again, now I have go one wires, piping, put new cas sensor, new afm, new sparks, new fuelpump, new ecu, 02 sensor, new idle control vavle, i pulled the fuel filter off and bypassed it still nothing, puthave tried resetting the ecu, have no bloody luck with it at all, any info would be appreciated just trying to get the girl running, cheers heaps team, much appreciated
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Hello! I did an rb25det swap for a 1979 280zx, though I'm having issues figuring out the wiring for the alternator; with the original alt' wires disconnected, you can't shut the fuel pump off/dash lights stay on until you disconnect the battery, I've tried splicing the L wires into the Rb's harness but it still has the same issue. Anyone who's done an engine swap found the solution to this?
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Hello! Looking for an N42, P90 or running l28et around Washington State. For an engine of same value; I have nearly a full LM7/CD009 swap, has a tune just starts and dies, r180/r200 1310 adapters (including new driveshaft and dirty Dingo engine mounts), decided to go back to the L28 instead (or another one of the other engines listed), more info if requested.
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I picked up my 240 about a year ago and since then have been slowly fixing and modding the far to what I eventually want the car to be.For now I have things done such as head work, headers into 2.5 inch all the way back ,rebuilt carbs, headlight covers, dash cover ,and other small things. I am in college so I don't have a ton of funds to send on the car but enough to make changes and mods frequent enough to keep it interesting. Build plans include a rb25 swap, weld in coil overs, full paint and body work,zg flares, big meaty tires, big brakes,wheels and bucket seats with a cage. It is a street car but I plan to autox it and keep,using it for mountain runs. Pictures will be up soon...just a quick shot of how the car stands right now
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So I'm having trouble picking out which conversion kit for my z but I'm stuck between two kits can someone who has done the setup suggest which kit I should get. And if anyone has used the cxracing conversion kit give me feedback on it thanks.
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As the title suggests looking for a z that's swapped clean would be a plus. As much as possible no rust. Willing to travel for the right one -
Hello fellow datsunites. I'm looking for some insight on how your rb motors mount up. I'm looking to fabricate some mounts for mine but I wanna see how some of yours sit, even if it's a off the shelf kit. I just need them for reference and brain storming. What I have is a full square tube chassis car, I also have a fully built rb25. The motor was a previous 300zx swap so it came with the mounts. I plan on adapting those mounts to work with my application. I wanna set the motor back as far as possible, even if that means not mounting it to the cross member. I also wanna see how your pans hang in relation to the crossmember, any help is appreciated. I have searched for pictures or threads on this topic with no avail. I'm confident in my fabrication skills, I just wanna get some ideas and maybe we can all brainstorm. Thanks, Devin
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Hi guys, first time posting here, working on my first RB and I need a little help! I'm having a weird problem with the RB25 I built for my 280z. I just recently put in the motor and haven't gotten it to start yet. I am using a Haltech pro plug-in ECU so that is helping immensely with diagnostics but might be part of the problem lol. So basically I have been able to crank over the engine but I am not getting any signal from the crank angle sensor, which in turn (correct me if im wrong here) is giving me no RPM signal, and not allowing the injectors or spark to fire. Essentially the ECU is unaware the engine is turning. I checked the power and earth of the connector, and also checked continuity from the ECU plug to the CAS, and made sure it was the correct pins for the ECU. Its a brand new wiring specialties harness. On the Haltech I made sure the trigger type was set to the correct one and opened a trigger counter channel so I could see if the ECU was getting any pings from the sensor (nothing). Every time I plug in the CAS with power to the ECU I do get a ping so im thinking the ECU should be okay? So, I got a new (used but in beautiful condition from japan) CAS and hooked it up, thinking that would solve the problem but it persisted. I found it unlikely that I would get 2 bad CASs in a row so I tried to bench test my new one. I gave it constant 12v to the power pin and strangely got 12v out of both data pins no matter what position the shaft was in (this might be just how it is but I would think you would only get voltage at the 1 & 120 degree positions?) I am just using a multimeter though so without am oscilloscope its hard to tell what is going on. Not sure what I should be seeing or if I would even be able to see anything at all. I have a series 2 with the black plastic CAS TL;DR Are these CAS sensors known to go out or am I doing something wrong? They are expensive but my next step is to get a brand new one from Raw Brokerage when they get them back in stock because I can't think of anything else that could be going wrong. Thanks in advance
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Hi guys I've seen weight for the engines and weights for cars and various pieces but just wondering if anyone has actually ever weighed their car post RB conversion with all of the other changes like exhaust, brakes etc that usually go along with a swap. Ideally would love to see independent wheel weights but I know that might be pushing it. If you have can you post weights and general idea of aftermarket parts. Thanks
