JustinOlson Posted February 26, 2016 Share Posted February 26, 2016 I've been doing a lot of research on the coyote platform over on yellowbullet in terms of the strength of the block in turbo applications. I've been up in the air between doing a aluminum 5.3L LS motor and the coyote. Seems the LS is good for about 1200whp before head lift becomes and issue on the 4 bolt heads and people start cracking sleeves. At this point you move to an aftermarket 6 bolt block and heads. Aluminum block options in this realm are $$$. The alternative at this level is a coyote with a sleeved block and factory heads. A sleeved Coyote block is ~3k+the block itself which isn't cheap by any means. You do get to retain the factory heads that provide enough clamping force and flow. Its a bit unknown how reliable they are up at the 1200-1500whp level. I'm going to wait and watch the aftermarket sort out the issues and get the recipe down before I dip my toe into a turbo build. What I do plan on doing in the mean time is swapping a 2011-2012 F150 into my 240z. Not sure what transmission I'll back it with at this point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLC Posted April 28, 2016 Share Posted April 28, 2016 I may be taking the plunge on this new coyote motor thing. A guy has a wrecked 2011 mustang with a good engine and wants to buy just my 2012 body so he's buying/trading with me and we're keeping drivetrains so i'll have a complete coyote setup with no home. and being the generous person i am i would be willing to shelter this in my 240z. This is not all set in stone yet because i also have a 66 mustang coupe i could put it in but it is a pretty big project and i don't think i want to tackle this just now so we'll see. No, its' 444 lbs . http://www.fordracingpartsdirect.com/5_0L_412HP_2011_MUSTANG_CRATE_ENGINE_p/m-6007-m50.htm i cant remember were i got my number so it could of just been a typo idk This is where i would start the build if i did http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/112621-starting-new-project-73/ I would try to get out of it as cheap as possible because i got a lot of other stuff going on, so go ahead and let the hate fly! But i have already spent a ton of money to restore this car to better than original condition and have everything i need to complete it although i never intended it to be a v8 car. you can see what ive done so far Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellowoctupus Posted April 29, 2016 Share Posted April 29, 2016 Yep, Dropping one in a coupe means no more shock towers! That's was the exact reason I had the Mod motors in my Z. Brought home a 4.6 SOHC naively thinking it would just drop into our '65. Remember, the 'width' dimensions given on charts etc are normally at the widest part of the engine, ie the cam bump-outs on my DOHC. In my engine bay, they sit just in front of the shock towers, so the width was easy for me. Well... relatively easy anyways. so go ahead and let the hate fly Honestly no idea why you'd say that on this forum. Get your hate the purist/restoration forums, not HybridZ. We've been waiting for a while for a Coyote swap. Or even for the other Mod motor guys to finish up their swaps..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLC Posted April 29, 2016 Share Posted April 29, 2016 The hate wouldn't be from the swap it would be about the way I go about the swap ie not spending any money for upgrading supporting mods like brakes. It would be very basic just to putt around in when I'm done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted April 29, 2016 Share Posted April 29, 2016 (edited) I still don't think you would find much hate. You can always add those parts as needed, I think you would only find a problem with that if you said you planned on tracking-daily driving-drifting-racing in a car with a 400+hp motor and stock R180 differential and stub axles. Then a bit of caution would probably be advised just so you don't close the roads or the track when one of the wheels fall off. It would be a shame to just putt around town when it could be quite potent. Those new mustang motors have quite a bit of pick up and go. Now if you install the motor with a roll of duct tape and some wood screws, I think someone might want to have a word with you. Edited April 29, 2016 by seattlejester Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLC Posted April 29, 2016 Share Posted April 29, 2016 (edited) Now if you install the motor with a roll of duct tape and some wood screws, I think someone might want to have a word with you. Heck yea that's my kinda build! Headed to Wal-Mart to get the camo kind now! Edited April 29, 2016 by FLC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan Merrill Posted April 30, 2016 Author Share Posted April 30, 2016 This was my preferred swap, I would still love to do this swap but I ended up going LS. The cost of the LS swap is so very cheap and everything is documented for swapping the motor into pretty much anything. The 2014 GT have the Boss 302 rods and are much stronger. They can make 750 whp on mild boost and still be reliable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted May 12, 2016 Share Posted May 12, 2016 Anybody have thoughts on where to put the alternator? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellowoctupus Posted May 13, 2016 Share Posted May 13, 2016 How much are you interfering by? I know you had some CAD models you were playing with, possibly the easiest (to keep from making custom alternator mounts etc) might be to just notch the frame rail. It's not handling any serious loads in front of the shock towers, so you should be fine to notcn and of course refill the notched hole. Or, remember you can flip alternators around and run them backwards, ie, the 'back' of the alternator could face the radiator, which vastly opens up your mounting scenarios. Additionally, did you check the truck/van vs. car belt routings? On SBF's they're vastly different, not sure on the OHCs, as I've only used car engines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HowlerMonkey Posted June 10, 2016 Share Posted June 10, 2016 We're at 2700hp without having to go with a billet block........but we are destroked to allow 11,000 rpms or more. Sadly, it such an unbelievably wide engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted September 29, 2016 Share Posted September 29, 2016 Back to thinking about the coyote swap. Here is what others with alternator clearance issues have done. Seems like a slick way to get around the clearance issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellowoctupus Posted September 30, 2016 Share Posted September 30, 2016 Ha, I like the double back to back water pump pulleys, very clean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpndave Posted September 30, 2016 Share Posted September 30, 2016 I like that idea. Plenty of room out front. If you're not running powersteering, it should be able to just replace that pully location and save the additional belt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan Merrill Posted September 30, 2016 Author Share Posted September 30, 2016 possible to move it to the AC location? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gollum Posted August 20, 2019 Share Posted August 20, 2019 For completely unrelated reasons... I was doing research... Ford now makes part number M-9430-SR50A which are block hugging cast manifolds that should be ideal for tight engine bays, with minimal sacrifice in power. I can't find dynos, but I'm willing to bet it's no major restriction. So unless I missed it, we're stilling waiting on our first Coyote swap? Looks easier and cheaper every year.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zetsaz Posted August 21, 2019 Share Posted August 21, 2019 @jpndave, see Gollum's comment Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gollum Posted August 22, 2019 Share Posted August 22, 2019 For reference: I can't find any pictures of them installed though. It mildly concerns me that they angle at the end, which means they're pointing at the transmissions potentially a bit much, but they also seem to terminate right at the end of the motor, so that's probably pretty good. That'll put the flange in a place that there should be space for them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpndave Posted August 22, 2019 Share Posted August 22, 2019 (edited) I'd be concerned about the kick out, especially the right one. Also as high as those are it would dump into the firewall. If the engine is kept more forward there might be room to get it turned down. The engine bay is plenty long. I don't think they will work very well if the engine is held tight to the firewall for better car balance. With how short the Coyote platform is a front/mid engine setup should be possible with the strut towers about even with cylinders 1&2. My firewall is messy anyway so I'm going to set the engine right back into it and box a bit as necessary. I plan to do some shorty equal length headers. Reports I have seen show these engines really respond to a good exhaust and tune. Because the pulses are perfectly even side to side the Voodoo exhaust can be much less complicated and still have no compromise. If they don't flare too much, those manifolds might work well to get an engine in and running initially. You could always add headers. Edited August 22, 2019 by jpndave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1969honda Posted August 23, 2019 Share Posted August 23, 2019 They look fairly symmetrical, possibly flip 180 for front exit and turbo 😈 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpndave Posted August 23, 2019 Share Posted August 23, 2019 Leave it to you @1969hondato run this right over the top. That would probably work quite well! Any takers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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