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[TUME]

Have you thought supporting those engine mounts to frame rails? If you leave them like that i`m afraid they will twist your front beam (subframe) 

[disepyon]

Thanks for your input and concern Tume. I too had thoughts about the engine having to much force on one side of the subframe. I didnt want to weld anything to the frames. I guess the only way to find out is to drive it for a little while and see what happens. I might could make something tieing the subframe to the sway bar mounts, those sway bar mounts are beefy. I just may think about doing something like that.

[disepyon]

Made the passenger side inner rocker panel.

 

Started with a flat piece of 18g CRS sheet  with everything marked up.

 

What it looks like after. Still need to add in the seat belt mounting. Left extra metal around the so when it comes time to actually fit it, I can trim it to exact size.

 

Next will be to make the supporting/tie in plates, Hopefully I can match the other side, should had made the passenger side along with the driver side at the time, but didnt think the passenger side would be this bad.

[disepyon]

As always, Sensational work even if you did rip off one of my idea's LOL

LOL, Keep your ideas posted, I may end up taking more, hehe.  Anyone is welcome to using any of my ideas, though so far, nothing is really all that custom/original idea, all so far mostly just remaking factory panels.

[Datz44]

whoa!!!

 

Amazing...

I've put my 240z project due to not knowing how to fabricate the whole rear taillight valance. 

I shall extensively consider using you ideas to build one.

Best luck and bravo!!

[disepyon]

Thanks Datz44, just takes some practice, Ive scratched numerous attempts at various stuff, I had help after lots of researching, reading, and watching videos to help achieve what I need.

 

Small update, got to work on it a little bit earlier today.

 

Got the passenger side interior rocker trimmed up and test fitted. Made the front tie in supporting plate, the stock on is actually not in bad condition, but I would like to match the other side though.

[disepyon]

A bit of an update, I will again describe first then just throw all the images at you like the last heavy loaded image updated post.

 

Starting where I left off from my last post, I made the rear end tie in plate. Worked on the rear end corner, the flanges from the inner and outer wheel well metal was all cheesed out.  Cut the rusted metal and replaced it like I did the driver side.  Tacked and welded the both front and rear tie in plates for the rockers. Welded a plate on with a nut for the seat belt mounting onto the passenger side inner rocker panel. Got everything degreased and ready with POR15 degreaser and prep and ready. Then painted everything with POR15 rust preventative paint. After sprayed on the weldable primer in the welding zones.  Welded in the inner and out rockers.  

 

Before I welded in the Passenger side rockers, decided to go ahead and put the doors on. Good thing I did because for some reason the passenger side outer rocker was a pain to align. Thankfully the driver side aligned, even though I never put the door on when I worked on that side. Lesson learned, if you can, Make sure to have the door, fender, and the rear quarter on as best you can to align the rockers.  I know already, I will have to work on the fender to align with the rocker and door, oh well I guess.

 

Worked on both the driver and passenger side rear seat belt mechanism housing (not sure the proper name, hehe).  Also worked on the front driver and passenger side lower fire wall.  Got everything cut out, made, tacked and welded.

 

Then decided to work on the floor pans!! This was actually fun!!  I decided to try out the tape method template for the area along the transmission tunnel, then cut it out with a razor blade, then tape it on to the floor pans.  Worked pretty good, left some extra metal on when I cut the floor pans out so I could fine tune the areas that needed exact fit up.  Other fun part was making the front drive side and passenger side seat brackets. Wasnt able to use the stock ones as the shape of my floor pans were a bit different, also I hacked up my passenger side when removing the old floor pans with the plasma cutter.  Also if your wondering why the driver side seat bracket looks a little different from the passenger side with the beading on the top is because the original stock brackets were like that.  Gotta be a reason why they did it like that, so I copied...

 

Where I am at now:

Still need to work on cleaning up the seatbelt mechanism housing parts, going to sandblast them first, get it all coated and welded in.  Also still need to grind down the areas I welded so far flush with the surrounding metal. Then I can get the floor pans welded in and the seat brackets welded in aswell. Still deciding whether or not to make my own rear seat brackets or just use the original ones.

 

Also I finally pulled the trigger on a English Wheel, Waiting for it to arrive. This will open a whole domain of working with sheet metal. Cant Wait!  Was thinking about buying only the anvil kit and building my own Frame, but shit for the price of the anvils I wanted, way out of my budget, So I decided to go with the Baileigh EW-40.  Figure this will be good for a beginner like me for a while till I can reach Pro level, then I can get the nicer quality anvils and make my own frame.

 

Hopefully one day I can reach Lazze's level of metalworking, True inspiration!

Looks to me this was done free handed and by eye, dont see much of a template made or a Wooden Buck.

 

Pictures:

 

Edited September 20, 2016 by disepyon

[Sirpent]

To me

 

This is probably the best build thread with such attention to detail I have seen.

 

I only wish you were down the street so I could stick my head in and admire this in real life.

 

Cheers

 

John

[disepyon]

To me

 

This is probably the best build thread with such attention to detail I have seen.

 

I only wish you were down the street so I could stick my head in and admire this in real life.

 

Cheers

 

John

Thanks John, your too kind, hehe.

 

I wont be able to work on my car this week and weekend due to making some rockers for some people. Hopefully I can knock those out fairly quickly and get back on this project.

[LLave]

Thank you so much for taking the time to share. Your work is really inspirational, seriously. 

 

If you ever get a chance, some pictures of tools and methods would be awesome. 

[grannyknot]

Extraordinary work.   Did start out thinking you would replace so much? You'll have a brand new Z by the time you're done!

[disepyon]

Thanks LLave and Grannyknot

 

I can start posting more pictures of the tools im using. Some have already been posted. Been using my bead roller and sheet metal brake a lot.

 

I actually did not think I would be doing this much repair work, just thought it would be your typical minor common repairs most people do on these cars. Probably should had bought another less rusty Z but im kind of glad I didnt because I have learned a lot working with sheet metal and in the end I enjoy it even though it can get fruatrating at times.

[kevbo82]

Thanks John, your too kind, hehe.

 

I wont be able to work on my car this week and weekend due to making some rockers for some people. Hopefully I can knock those out fairly quickly and get back on this project.

like the shoemaker's son! 

This whole thread feels an instruction manual for all the repairs I need to do to my car in the next year or so. Thanks so much for sharing all the information and detailed photos, it's not only such a help in doing the work, but it's inspiring as well and helps guys like me feel less overwhelmed by the scope of the project!

[disepyon]

Thanks Kevbo82

 

Here is an update to the Interior rocker panels your waiting on. Refer to my vendor thread for more pictures of the process. I am finished with the panels, now just need to make the seat belt mounts and tie in plates.  Will probably go to my local shipping supply store to see if they sell any boxes that will fit this, if not I will most likely have to order online which isnt a big deal, however I would hate for the other customer and you waiting too long due to waiting on packaging materials, though better for the parts to arrive safely with proper packaging than damaged.

 

Lucky for you guys, these panels are damn near close to the originals, way better than the ones I made for my car. Somebody had to be the lab rat, hehe. I actually remeasured everything, tested some stuff out and finally made a template.

 

No problem with the pictures, I always feel I dont take enough and post, yet I sometimes go a bit crazy on some stuff, hehe.

[1 tuff z]

Try U-Line for boxes. For the Fairlady reproduction grill I found a box to fit nearly perfect and, when purchased in modest quantity were much less expensive than I thought and more convenient that making the box from a sheet of cardboard.

[kevbo82]

wow you're getting used to making those huh!

 

Also check out a fedex store if you have one locally, I ship guitars a lot and need big/long boxes and I was amazed how cheap fedex was for some of those boxes. They had to order them in and it took a few days, but a good price (their shipping rates seem to be better than ups and usps as well these days). Uline is also a good option. Another thing I've done a lot is if you find a box the right dimensions but only say half the length, you can use two boxes and overlap them at the center then tape them together. 

[disepyon]

1 tuff Z and Kevbo82, thanks for the suggestions. After checking those places mentioned among others, decided to order from ebay, had the best prices, though for the boxes I had to order more, but price per box was still best price.

[disepyon]

Small update:

 

Sanded down the welds of the rear corner of the floor where the seat belt mechanisms are and the front lower fire wall.  On the driver side had to replace a small section of metal.  Still working on blending the metal together after welding and sanding.  Just hard to do in the flat areas.  Though I will admit, my fitment in some areas were not that great, had some big gaps. I really didnt spend much time in prep work, that is having good fitment before welding.  Also doesnt help trying to weld in awkward positions. Dont care too much on the back side/underneath the car side of the welds since you wont see them, just did some light sanding.  I really just need to start practicing each day with welding, sanding and blending sheet metal together, at least weekly if anything...hehe

 

My English Wheel finally arrived earlier this week.  If anyone is thinking about buying this brand (Baileigh EW-40), I would probably reconsider, I am not to happy so far with the quality. Had to modify the bottom anvil cradle on one side because the bottom anvil/wheels didnt align/set flush against the top wheel.  Not only that but the bottom anvils are off centered from the top wheel. So far those are the only complaints I have.  One other thing that kind of bothers me is that the top wheel is not the same width as the bottom anvils. Of all the videos and pictures ive seen, the top wheel is either same size width (majority of them) or wider, not thinner.  Overall though, its a nice wheel for the money I guess, though I am a Noob at this, so I cant really say much.  The frame is extremely robust, so there isnt any flexing going on when wheeling, which is good. The anvils that come with it are alright. Wish they would have ditched the useless step and bead anvils for tighter angled anvils. I really want now a more rounded bottom anvil to get into tight spots. 

 

My very first practice pieces. Just screwing around, mainly practicing my wheeling pattern. 

 

Kind of getting side tracked from the car since the english wheel arrived. Been on the interweb feeding my brain with a bunch of youtube videos and reading material on shaping metal with the wheel.

 

More to come...

[disepyon]

Sandblasted some parts. Appears I will need to fill in some rusted holes shut.

 

Finally got the floor pans in permanently, still have some miscellaneous holes to weld in shut though.  

Pictures showing clecos holding in the floor to the tunnel and frame.  Tried my best to get the edges aligned and butted with little gaps.  Some areas had some gaps, the driver side near the front end and rear end had the largest gaps but managed to get those welded fine without hardly any warpage.

 

Tacked welded.

 

 

Tack welds sand smooth.

All welded in.

 

Welds sanded and smoothed out. Had to do some hammer and dolly work on the welds to stretch them out and get the metal flush again.

 

Will be working on the seat brackets getting them prepped for installation and the parts I sandblasted.

Edited October 18, 2016 by disepyon

[grannyknot]

Beautiful work as always, would mind mentioning what you Mig set up is, wire size, settings and that sort of thing?

Thanks