What can I eliminate from my engine bay?

[280Dan]

I just recently got a new position at work that allows me to drive a work supplied vehicle. So in turn I took the regular insurance off of my Z and got classic insurance and am now able to work on it without worrying about down time due to the work vehicle. And now that the car does not need to clear emissions I would like to start eliminating all the unnecessary components in the engine bay/car.

 

Goal: Have the most simple setup possible.

Problem: I don't know what everything in my engine bay is for and what can be removed. I know there's a ton of stuff on the intake manifold that can get removed just not sure what and how it will affect the car.

 

A picture to show the condition of the engine bay (I'll take some more recent ones tomorrow):

[RTz]

What can I eliminate from my engine bay?

 

A lot... potentially.

 

This car still has A/C and power steering...

 

 

 

 

 

Every part/piece on your car serves a purpose. Before you start ripping and tearing, I would recommend trying to understand what it is you're trying to remove, relocate, or replace.

[280Dan]

Well after doing some more reading I'm considering going with a non egr N42 intake manifold. Now if I went ahead with that, what will I need to have connected to it and what can be eliminated. I don't need my ac and I don't need to worry about anything emissions related. Can I essentially just bolt it up?

[BluDestiny]

First of all they don't come shaved and they look fugly with all the bosses still there( bolt holes). Second of all, you can tell what most of the things that get eliminated are from looking at pictures.

 

Remove one system as a time after thorough research on EVERYTHING connected to your intake.

 

I have 4 things connected to my intake. Valve cover breather to the throttle body, PCV on the bottom, FPR vacuum port, Brake booster vacuum port.

[280Dan]

That's the thing I have no idea how to figure out what some of the things (systems) are without taking pictures and posting up and asking. And for example, if I eliminate the air regulator and cold start injector what happens? What do the do with the connectors? Cut them off and cap the wires?

[GarageRatt13]

Im also interested in this topic because once i swap in my L28ET I would like a very clean engine bay. In the picture i see that the car is running coil packs, is this a hard mod to do? It looks super clean.

[280Dan]

I'm going to go that same route. ZCCJDM sells the custom mounting bracket for individual coil packs. My main concern is when I go to remove something that actually has a sensor or electrical connector to it, will it affect the ECU and the overall car? And what do you do with the "leftover" wires and connectors.

[ctc]

Start by reading the Factory Service Manual. Strangly it describes every system on the engine. Then search the internet for more information on how each of those systems function. Remember, that Nissan put each of those items on there for a reason. It would have been cheaper if they left it off, so it must do something. Read the emissions thread on here before you start thinking you don't need whats on there.

Edited April 11, 2012 by ctc

[RTz]

Start by reading the Factory Service Manual. Strangly it describes every system on the engine. Then search the internet for more information on how each of those systems function. Remember, that Nissan put each of those items on there for a reason. It would have been cheaper if they left it off, so it must do something. Read the emissions thread on here before you start thinking you don't need whats on there.

 

Gold star for you. Yes, there is life beyond the internet. People have been doing this stuff long before forums were readily available. We bought books and read them. A used FSM will cost less than a tank of fuel and be an invaluable source of information for as long as you own your Z.

 

 

In the picture i see that the car is running coil packs, is this a hard mod to do?

It depends on your skills/experience. For some people here it’s a walk in the park. For others, not so easy. I’d say, if you’ve never done anything like it or much EFI work, it will probably be a bit of a challenge. Pretty much all modern aftermarket EFI packages are capable of a multi-coil system and they’re all just a little different. Find a local EMS dealer and see what system he recommends and talk to him about your ignition choices. A good dealer will be happy to help you understand what ‘his’ system will require.

[cockerstar]

Electronic versions of the FSM are even free online, but, in my opinion, getting a real copy that you can write in/tote around/physically hold is definitely worth the less than $50 it will run you.

I think I have 6 copies of different s30 FSMs laying around? Definitely a valuable resource. PM me if you want one and I'll check to see if I have a spare 280z one.

Edited April 11, 2012 by cockerstar

[280Dan]

I appreciate the responses without any "heat" for a probably beaten up topic. I'll definitely go through that service manual.

[steve260z]

I appreciate the responses without any "heat" for a probably beaten up topic. I'll definitely go through that service manual.

Yep, better quit while you're ahead!

[makaofox]

Look around most people have done this already. Search there is a ton of good info out there. I know having the EGR crap sucks but its not easy going simple lol. A shaved bay and tucked wires has its fair share of work. I searched this a while back and since my z has no ac, heat or even a motor, im going to search and see what can be cut down. Your main concern would be relocations and tucks, not so much deleting everything. I'll try to pull up a few threads that I have found.

Edited April 12, 2012 by makaofox

[SleeperZ]

Deleting the EGR and fuel vapor canister has no operational consequences. A custom fuel rail always makes the engine look cleaner, especially if you re-locate the pressure regulator. Most of the idle control stuff can be removed and compensated with a good air bypass on the throttle body. I've never had AC, so that came off immediately with no need for engine load idle compensation. If you want to go distributor-less for EDIS or COP, you will need an aftermarket EFI. Then if you control fueling with a MAP and temperature sensors, you no longer need a TPS or an air flow meter, making the intake much cleaner. And of course with speed-density you can vent your crankcase with a filter, although I am still routing mine back into the intake to cut down on smoke and smells.

[Leon]

Deleting the EGR and fuel vapor canister has no operational consequences.

 

Deleting these definitely does have "operational consequences", both performance and emissions related. Both of these are described in the FSM. The benefits of the vapor canister should be pretty clear, but I'll add a pertinent link about EGR.

 

EGR discussion

[SleeperZ]

 

Deleting these definitely does have "operational consequences", both performance and emissions related. Both of these are described in the FSM. The benefits of the vapor canister should be pretty clear, but I'll add a pertinent link about EGR.

 

EGR discussion

On a 30 year old car that has no emissions requirements, it certainly DOES NOT have "operational" consequences, and that's why I worded it that way. As a matter of fact, I had those systems deleted on my car even when it did need to meet emissions, and it passed every time.

Edited April 12, 2012 by SleeperZ

[Leon]

On a 30 year old car that has no emissions requirements, it certainly DOES NOT have "operational" consequences, and that's why I worded it that way. As a matter of fact, I had those systems deleted on my car even when it did need to meet emissions, and it passed every time.

Well in that case, I have no clue how you're defining "operational consequences". I take "operational consequences" to mean the result of an action onto the operation of the vehicle. Neither the age of the car in question nor the emissions requirements of said car has anything to do with the effects of removing equipment. Are you saying that the EGR and the vapor recovery systems don't do anything?

 

Just because your car "passed" some emissions test doesn't mean that nothing changed. Do you have printouts showing the numbers from tailpipe and evap testing before and after removal? How about a log of average mpg before and after? A properly working EGR system will give you better gas mileage and decrease NO_X emissions. A working vapor recovery system will release less HC into the atmosphere by way of gas fumes. I would think anyone would welcome that, especially if you park your Z in the garage, considering that you'd be the one breathing in all those fumes.

 

Frankly, saying that there are no "operational consequences" (call them what you want) for deleting these things is just plain ignorant.

[SleeperZ]

Leon, the point of this thread is removing hardware to clean up the look without changing the performance of the vehicle. I've had none of the stuff I listed affect how my car drives, and until last year I had a factory Z31 EFI. On my daily driver, a VW TDI, I do everything I can to maximize fuel economy and make sure it passes emissions tests. On my Z none of that is relevant, I want simple and functional, and that's what I interpret the OP to have as a goal as well.

[Gollum]

Well let me bring some balance to this topic.

 

Removing the evap can and egr will not effect the running of your L motor to the point that serious compromises need to be put in place to correct any difference.

 

Removing either under current CA smog laws is illegal, and any decent smog tech will fail you on visual.

 

EGR "should" give you better MPG, but that said there's plenty of people getting BETTER MPG with aftermarket EFI WITHOUT EGR, than the OEM ECU WITH EGR. EGR isn't a magic bullet for MPG, just a factor that can be beneficial.

 

EVAP cans, though reducing HC in the atmosphere are a very good example of governments spending 90% of the budget on squeezing the last 10% improvement left over. Emissions from vehicles are just a sliver of what they were in the 60's, yet we keep introducing more and more systems to get that last little sliver as small as possible, though the percentages aren't nearly as impressive and the improvements made in the 70's and 80's (and even in the 90's for that matter with OBD-ll). EVAP though helpful, isn't going to fix old rubber hoses that are leaking vapors. It's not going to fix a leaky gas cap seal. There's SO MANY WAYS for vapors to leak out somewhere, and the EVAP is only worthwhile if everything else in the system is up to snuff. And even in a brand new vehicle, bypassing the EVAP shouldn't make a hugely noticeable difference, because the system shouldn't be leaking that much vapor! I liken the EVAP to the newer CA-standard "vapor guards" at the pump. Yes, great idea. But guess what? Gas stations still smell like gas. Better than other states with the old style pumps? Probably. But I'm betting the statistics though measurable by equipment would be much harder to measure by mere human perception.

 

In the end, you can remove nearly everything off the engine and "make it work" to a degree. Some things are much more important. Others not so much. I drove my L28ET with literally NOTHING but PCV, Brake booster, Fuel Pressure Regulator, and boost gauge on my intake on the OEM ECU! It even made pretty decent power. I only got lo 20's MPG, and would be fun driving in the cold at first startup, but still definitely drivable.

 

Point of all this? Make your car work for YOUR needs/wants/desires/application. The FSM has most of any education you need on these things and you can easily look at what other people have done to get an idea of what's possible. And make sure to fallow local laws if you're going to drive on the street, or at least be educated about them, not just ignorant and complain to all of US when YOU get a ticket for something YOU did.

[Leon]

Leon, the point of this thread is removing hardware to clean up the look without changing the performance of the vehicle. I've had none of the stuff I listed affect how my car drives, and until last year I had a factory Z31 EFI. On my daily driver, a VW TDI, I do everything I can to maximize fuel economy and make sure it passes emissions tests. On my Z none of that is relevant, I want simple and functional, and that's what I interpret the OP to have as a goal as well.

I understand the point of this thread and am not debating it. What I'm debating are your contentions about EGR not affecting performance. Even if you don't see or feel a difference, it doesn't mean it's not there. Whether that's of consequence to you is another matter altogether.

 

Just because it's irrelevant to you doesn't make it so to everyone else.

 

 

Well let me bring some balance to this topic.

 

Removing the evap can and egr will not effect the running of your L motor to the point that serious compromises need to be put in place to correct any difference.

 

Removing either under current CA smog laws is illegal, and any decent smog tech will fail you on visual.

 

EGR "should" give you better MPG, but that said there's plenty of people getting BETTER MPG with aftermarket EFI WITHOUT EGR, than the OEM ECU WITH EGR. EGR isn't a magic bullet for MPG, just a factor that can be beneficial.

 

EVAP cans, though reducing HC in the atmosphere are a very good example of governments spending 90% of the budget on squeezing the last 10% improvement left over. Emissions from vehicles are just a sliver of what they were in the 60's, yet we keep introducing more and more systems to get that last little sliver as small as possible, though the percentages aren't nearly as impressive and the improvements made in the 70's and 80's (and even in the 90's for that matter with OBD-ll). EVAP though helpful, isn't going to fix old rubber hoses that are leaking vapors. It's not going to fix a leaky gas cap seal. There's SO MANY WAYS for vapors to leak out somewhere, and the EVAP is only worthwhile if everything else in the system is up to snuff. And even in a brand new vehicle, bypassing the EVAP shouldn't make a hugely noticeable difference, because the system shouldn't be leaking that much vapor! I liken the EVAP to the newer CA-standard "vapor guards" at the pump. Yes, great idea. But guess what? Gas stations still smell like gas. Better than other states with the old style pumps? Probably. But I'm betting the statistics though measurable by equipment would be much harder to measure by mere human perception.

 

In the end, you can remove nearly everything off the engine and "make it work" to a degree. Some things are much more important. Others not so much. I drove my L28ET with literally NOTHING but PCV, Brake booster, Fuel Pressure Regulator, and boost gauge on my intake on the OEM ECU! It even made pretty decent power. I only got lo 20's MPG, and would be fun driving in the cold at first startup, but still definitely drivable.

 

Point of all this? Make your car work for YOUR needs/wants/desires/application. The FSM has most of any education you need on these things and you can easily look at what other people have done to get an idea of what's possible. And make sure to fallow local laws if you're going to drive on the street, or at least be educated about them, not just ignorant and complain to all of US when YOU get a ticket for something YOU did.

Most of what you say makes sense, besides what I've highlighted in bold.

 

EGR does in fact give you better mpg, the explanation is given in the thread I linked. You have to compare apples to apples. Comparing aftermarket and OEM EFI is completely useless, they are vastly different both physically (no AFM restriction along with other possible modifications) as well as in their design intent (you can lean out aftermarket EFI way more than factory does out of concern for the catalytic converter).