Jump to content
HybridZ

Questions for track car build


Recommended Posts

Hello,

I am wanting to build a 240,260, or 280 for SCCA, Autocross, track days, etc. I have been doing a lot of research over the past few days on what kind of stuff I will need to do and what all of this is going to cost. I have a Small Block Chevy that I am going to put into the car. It's looking like I may be coming to this place often with questions as I progress through the build. My first question is this: Since it is going to be a track car, which one will be best? I know the 280Z is the heaviest, but once everything is gutted they should all weigh the same, correct?

Also, is there any track guys here that have done what I am doing that has documented their builds?

Thanks,

Han

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No they will not all weigh the same. You want an earlier model. But then the lighter ones need more reinforcement. 

 

Forgetting the shell, if you go with an sbc it will automatically move you to another class that probably have much more stringent rules. Are you planning on winning or just fooling around?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the help everyone. I'm planning on just fooling around. I have contacted some people with the local SCCA here in Alabama and they said depending on what class I fall into, being competitive could be hit or miss. They stated several different classes and i'm looking int othe rules of each one to see where I want to go. This isn't something I want to put a ton of money into, just something to dabble with and to take up my spare time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The only classes you'll fit in for autox are X Prepared, where I believe a V8 Z might be able to compete, or E Mod, where I think a V8 Z will get stomped by 7 clones. Depending on the size of your club and the competition, your situation may vary. For road racing I think you can do ITE, and after that I don't know, but you'd likely be outclassed by anything else out there that would fit into such a wide open category.

 

If you just want to put together a cheap car that goes fast and don't care about classifications or winning, then you can have a lot of fun. I got a ride in a stockish 280Z (chassis, suspension, etc) with a 327 about a year ago at an autox. It wasn't the fastest thing out there by a long shot, but it was a really fun ride.

 

There is a guy in Portland with a V8 RX7, 2nd gen that runs in XP, and it is the fastest autox car I've been in. Very impressive and not a lot of money in it. I don't see why his kind of results wouldn't be just as easy with a Z car. 

Edited by JMortensen
Link to comment
Share on other sites

My 260Z w/ SBC runs in the X Prepared class, which gives me a pretty stiff PAX handicap (i.e. I have to run a faster raw time to be competitive with cars in most other classes).  Usually my main competition in XP comes from Shelby replicars.  

 

A couple things to keep in mind if auto-x is your main focus: 1) the V8 results in a heavier front end, which can be a liability on tight courses, given the Z's lack of power steering,  and 2) the V8's torque and power will quickly highlight the lack of LSD if you're running the standard open diff R180 or R200.

 

Don't get me wrong....I have a blast running my Z in a variety of HPDE, but if your main goal is to be competitive in auto-x, there are probably cheaper and easier ways to get there.  Obviously, there are plenty of guys who have had great success in their Z cars (both with the straight-6 and V8s), but the cars have typically been highly modified, driven by very experienced and highly-skilled drivers.  (Now I'll stand by for a wave of blast attacks from my fellow Z enthusiasts.   :icon46: )

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 (Now I'll stand by for a wave of blast attacks from my fellow Z enthusiasts.   :icon46: )

No, you're totally right. Here's a different way of thinking about it though. The current PAX for FP is .877, and for XP is .901. Z's are competitive in XP (won the last 10 or so titles before last year). Granted, John Thomas is one hell of a driver, but they're still competitive for sure. So by that PAX value, on a 60 sec course the FP leader should pull a  68.41 and the XP does a 66.59. About a 2 second gap. Now, here's the question... give John Thomas a Z with another 200 ft lbs of torque down low, quicker power steering, unlimited width tires, a 6" splitter, a wing, etc, and is it possible that he makes up that time??? It's iffy IMO, but I think it's within the realm of possibility.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Agree completely, Jon.  

 

One thing the Z offers that most new cars don't is classical styling....and the fans always love seeing a 40-year old Datsun beat a bunch of high-priced, high-technology newer cars. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm building a track car for running SCCA Time Trials program - primarily hill climbs . I fall into the category of "for fun" and " running something different" - though one of our recent hill climbs - Chasing the Dragon (Robbinsville NC location) - I believe a v8 z was in top three finishers.

 

I believe in the SE Region of SCCA the car could run in the SPO class for road racing - which is sort of a "catch all" class.

 

Can't really speak about autocross.

 

Mine is an old school build (being an aging Baby Boomer) - 327 Chevy with single 4bbl. My car uses chassis stiffners as well as a full cage. Be glad to provide contact for the race shop that did the cage and chassis work if you will send a PM. (car still a work in progress)

 

Good luck with the build.

 

Wcameron

Link to comment
Share on other sites

After looking at many different cars, I've found a 280Z for a good price and in good condition. The only problem is that it is a 2+2. I've tried searching and reading as best as I could about the 2+2. It seems like the extra weight wont matter much once it is stripped, but then again there is a wheelbase difference. I have a 260 I'm looking at too, but it's not in as good as condition as the 2+2 but it is less. The 2+2 is an automatic, but after doing some reading getting the pedal and linkage for a manual setup shouldn't be that hard. What's everyone's opinion on a regular Z vs the 2+2 for my application?   

Edited by mr_han_solo
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

I would not bother sinking any money into the 2+2 if you want a coupe.  Sit and wait.  As to the power plant choices, I'd recommend driving it stock first and sorting out the brakes and suspension before you start swapping power plants.

 

Been at this Zcar game since 1987 and I've owned and tracked/autocrossed them on and off for much of that time.  So I think my opinion has some merit.

 

Mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I say be patient and buy a car already set up for what you intend to do. Race cars sell for pennies for what it takes to build one. And less risk of a stalled project.

 

Words of wisdom.  If you can find what you want, this is the way to go.  There is a huge benefit to buying a running package versus a pile of parts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...