A musician's therapist (The $300 Z)

[rturbo 930]

One more difference, if you didn't know - 73+ (I think) have door beams. BIG door beams. My E30, which was designed some 10 years later, has just a little tube in the door. So from a safety standpoint, you might want to keep the later doors if they're usable. In terms of weigh, it's about 10lbs more per door. Also, when I got my 240z, I noticed a big gap a the bottom rear of the door. Basically the door was sagging, and it had the stress crack you usually see at the front where the window frame attaches. So I swapped it out with another 240z door. Same thing. Same crack, too, if I remember right. Then I tried my 280z door. No issues. It fit perfectly. That big ass door beam helps the door keep it's shape, I think.

 

Just some things to think about if you're swapping doors.

[Zetsaz]

Thanks for the tip! I'll check them out tomorrow. They are nearly identical from 70-76 as was mentioned. The biggest difference is the slightly different design in the panel and door handle/armrest being two pieces (4 screws involved) in the 240 and one piece (3 screws involved) in the 280... None of which align. I'll just drill out the spots I need and weld or solder anything threaded that will recieve the screws. Not terribly difficult.

 

If my car was all black I would have just slapped on the doors after some paint stripping and black rattle can in the meantime, especially since it'll be looking more and more like an early model with those series 1 parts, but with my brown interior and already reupholstered seats to match I kinda didn't have a choice but to figure something out.

[seattlejester]

I would say some rivnuts would probably be a better option. I've got a full kit, but your in utah now lol.

[Zetsaz]

Dang, should have thought of that! Might go buy some at the hardware store I guess. Will make things much easier.

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/67531-ac-delcogm-alternator-swap-part-2-cs144-installation/

 

This link for my own reference. I was finding it near impossible to find a CS130 without ordering. CS144 was about the same work but very heavy and required ordering another pigtail. The work and costs just seem to add up and I didn't want to have such an overkill alternator just hanging out by the engine if I wasn't making use of it, so I just spent a third the price on a later model internally regulated 60A one for the time being. Will be an easier and cheaper swap for now and get the car moving while I focus on other things. Fancy lights and audio won't be used for quite a while anyway.

[Zetsaz]

Got the car running with the zx alternator! Splicing was easy, but the bottom legs actually needed a tiny bit of shaving to fit on the bracket

 

Steady 14v-ish with lights on and wipers moving.

 

Garbage

 

I have no idea how people fit the CS130 or 144. Will likely still go with it in the future but this one is already closer to the lower radiator hose.

 

Battery tie downs and door work tomorrow

[jpndave]

Glad you making some progress on the old girl!

[Zetsaz]

Got to drive around a fair bit yesterday. No pressure in either of the coolant hoses despite full coolant level. Noticed the front was a little bit damp after the car had been running for a bit.

 

Guess it's time for a new water pump and temperature switch since I'm not getting a reading on my dash gauge either. Good thing this parts are actually quite cheap. It never ends... Haha

[Zetsaz]

Been considering putting off any sort of paint prep until I feel satisfied with the underside of the car and other metal work. I don't have a 220v plugin at my place in Washington so I was looking at getting this welder as something that would fit my needs and to really get any holes or rust done myself instead of waiting on welder relatives or friends, or just putting things off

 

http://www.eastwood.com/mig-welder-110vac-135a-output.html

 

Any thoughts on this one? Anyone have better recommendations for the price? Several guys on another thread here asking for welder recommendations seemed to really like theirs. 

[boosted300]

Got to drive around a fair bit yesterday. No pressure in either of the coolant hoses despite full coolant level. Noticed the front was a little bit damp after the car had been running for a bit.

 

Guess it's time for a new water pump and temperature switch since I'm not getting a reading on my dash gauge either. Good thing this parts are actually quite cheap. It never ends... Haha

Never...but then again, would you want it to?

[1969honda]

Contact Dave about the welder stuff, he has a good friend that's in the know and in sales.

[Zetsaz]

Never...but then again, would you want it to?

 

I'd like to at least get to the part where the car actually looks somewhat nice and I can enjoy it haha

 

 

Contact Dave about the welder stuff, he has a good friend that's in the know and in sales.

 

Will do!

[jpndave]

Give me a call and we'll discuss options. I really wouldn't do that cheap machine. I had a 220V Miller (their "cheap" one) and even that wasn't great. There are some dual voltage machines available that will do decent welds even on flux core (thought gas is always better if you can).

 

Easier to talk it through than type it out.

[seattlejester]

Damn that is really cheap lol. I would say for eastwood stuff you kind of need to be familiar with the function and parts of a welder. They are good about returns/exchanges, but that can get tedious after the first one or two if you are unlucky, better to be able to diagnose if it is the drive unit of a loose connection to be able to fix it yourself or if the controller board or something is toast and you need to send it in. If you get a working one it seems like they are ok. 

 

I've done all my stuff with a hobart handler. They are about $500 new. Honestly though with 220v I would be really tempted to invest in a DC/AC TIG machine, granted we are getting into 4 digit territory there. Just remember a tank to buy outright is about $150 or so here (rental is $70 or so a year). Add in $40-50 for a fill, leathers, a nice autodimming welding mask ($100-500), probably want to plan on having an extra $3-400 on top of the welder cost. I was all for the $40 harborfreight masks, until it failed to dim on me one time, had a nice blue spot in my vision for 2-3 days. 

[jpndave]

Damn that is really cheap lol. I would say for eastwood stuff you kind of need to be familiar with the function and parts of a welder. They are good about returns/exchanges, but that can get tedious after the first one or two if you are unlucky, better to be able to diagnose if it is the drive unit of a loose connection to be able to fix it yourself or if the controller board or something is toast and you need to send it in. If you get a working one it seems like they are ok. 

 

I've done all my stuff with a hobart handler. They are about $500 new. Honestly though with 220v I would be really tempted to invest in a DC/AC TIG machine, granted we are getting into 4 digit territory there. Just remember a tank to buy outright is about $150 or so here (rental is $70 or so a year). Add in $40-50 for a fill, leathers, a nice autodimming welding mask ($100-500), probably want to plan on having an extra $3-400 on top of the welder cost. I was all for the $40 harborfreight masks, until it failed to dim on me one time, had a nice blue spot in my vision for 2-3 days. 

Like JD said, I have connections.

[jpndave]

Damn that is really cheap lol. I would say for eastwood stuff you kind of need to be familiar with the function and parts of a welder. They are good about returns/exchanges, but that can get tedious after the first one or two if you are unlucky, better to be able to diagnose if it is the drive unit of a loose connection to be able to fix it yourself or if the controller board or something is toast and you need to send it in. If you get a working one it seems like they are ok. 

 

I've done all my stuff with a hobart handler. They are about $500 new. Honestly though with 220v I would be really tempted to invest in a DC/AC TIG machine, granted we are getting into 4 digit territory there. Just remember a tank to buy outright is about $150 or so here (rental is $70 or so a year). Add in $40-50 for a fill, leathers, a nice autodimming welding mask ($100-500), probably want to plan on having an extra $3-400 on top of the welder cost. I was all for the $40 harborfreight masks, until it failed to dim on me one time, had a nice blue spot in my vision for 2-3 days. 

I have been flashed even with a high quality hood. My TIG hood is really good, It's a Miller but has a custom Hockey Mask finish so it doesn't get used for anything that will spatter. Has more sensors. Usually when you get flashed it's because the sensors are obscured and it can't catch it fast enough. On a harbor freight unit? No comment.

[seattlejester]

Yup definitely graduated from HF, better then nothing, but yea not by much... 

 

If you have a helpful hookup take advantage! Just be warned you can sink money into equipment real fast

[seattlejester]

Sorry to slightly thread hijack, but maybe useful for Zetsaz as well. 

 

jpndave, what do you suggest for an entry aluminum capable TIG setup? Just your average hobbiest, Everlast has come up. Once again Eastwood has the cheapest option with the manual knob adjustable unit, but I stand by my former statement. Your thoughts?

[jpndave]

I'd stick to a name brand, better machine even if it costs a little more. The Lincoln 210 machine is nearly impossible to beat right now - and I'm a Miller Blue guy. I have a Dynasty 200DX for TIG and a 350P for MIG. Love the TIG but that MIG has a lot more capacity. Aluminum is tough as it draws heat away so fast. You need a really powerful machine if you are going to do any thickness to speak of. Argon or a mixed gas for steel is really the only way to go but gets expensive especially for TIG work even where I can buy it a fraction of retail. The Inverter machines have come a long way, that's all I own now. Gave my 250 to my dad when I got the 350P. I'd stay away from the cheaper machines.

 

I welded up a complete exhaust in Hawaii with a Miller 211 using flux core wire. I kept telling my friend that he needed to get gas up there so I could do decent welds and I was quite surprised that the flux core did fine in that machine. I've used flux core before when I was starting out in the 220 volt starter model Miller and had a horrible go of it. That 211 just compensated and ran great. More spatter but the welds turned out fine. Would they have been better with gas? I'm sure, definitely would have saved my clothes from as much spatter but it did the job much better than expected. I was impressed by that little machine.

[jpndave]

If I was buying a machine in this range and didn't care about it doing TIG, I'd buy a Miller 211 (like I said, I'm Blue). However for the money, the Lincoln 210 will do everything that the 211 will and has TIG capability. That's what I'd get. If I had to save a little longer, so be it. If you are scabbing together farm parts or a trailer or something rough, maybe you could get by but we're talking permanent restoration here and maybe some delicate fabrications down the road. A cheap machine is just going to be a frustration. Once you have used a good machine it's really hard to fight with junk. My 350P is pretty much the ultimate for this stuff but WAY out of the price range you are talking and honestly for the things you are wanting to do the 210 will be perfect, you probably wouldn't know the difference. With all the automation and simplicity, it might even be better. However, I am looking forward to playing with the pulsar on my sheet metal in the Z, just need some time. That's one of my justifications for picking up that machine, that and I got it for a song. The 250 I had welded beautifully.

 

Oh, and get a cylinder. I know I mentioned the flux core works on those machines but you'll get better welds and be a lot happier with gas. I have a bit more experience with them and that helps. Omar, I might have a tank here I could let go. I own all of mine and have a few tricks to get another if need be. I have been shifting all mine to the larger sizes and likely have one that would be perfect for your needs. I like keeping a spare on hand as you always seem to run out on a weekend when they are closed and it's also nice to back purge things too.

[Zetsaz]

Bigg-ish puchases today. Dave, that roof you wanted might be unusable for your needs. I'll send you pics later and you can decide based on the rust on the top. Not sure quite how clean you want it, but it's hard to tell how pitted it is right now. 

 

Bought a xenon front air dam, stock brake stuff from rock auto, Mooneyes GT071 mirrrors like the ones on Kazuaki Kadowaki's old Z, a weatherstripping kit, and the missing roof emblems. 

 

Hoping to sandblast and at least get an epoxy primer on it while I finish things up. Might even try to go for paint if I can figure out what I want to do with the floors.