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HybridZ

A musician's therapist (The $300 Z)


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I've definitely seen the value go up on them. Maybe things have changed but 7-8 years ago I would read people saying it was ridiculous to even call the early models a "series 1" because they were just slight changes throughout the years.

 

7-8 years ago, a 72 911 was still somewhat affordable. As for the comment on series one cars, that person has no clue what he's talking about. Zs made up to January 1971 are series one cars, and they are quite a bit different than any of the others. For example, the entire chassis is made of thinner metal, which is why they are known to be lighter than any other year.

 

 

Regarding a 280z based 240z tribute car, that's almost exactly what I'm going to be doing. 240z body work, dash, door cards, console, etc., on a 280z chassis. Partly because my 280z is in better shape than my 240z, but also because the 280z is a better chassis for a street car, and IMO combining the two would be the best of both worlds. It won't have any 240z badges on it though.

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SWEET! Looking forward to what you've got there whatever path you choose to take!

Yeah! I feel like once I get the parts home it'll be a huge step in the right direction. If I don't that I'll basically just need to replace floors and rails and most of the body work will be finished, minus a few odd rust patches that aren't much bigger than a quarter. 

 

rturbo, you're comment is exactly what I've been thinking. The 280z I have is in way better shape and already has some decent upgrades and I've already poured so much into some metal. I can maybe save the shell on the 240z, but all the distinct series 1 parts that people usually think about are in great shape. Mine would only have the hood and rear quarter badges on it. Nothing else. No 240z markings. 

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HLS-15518

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Dash needs some serious cleaning, but other than that, the cracking is actually minimal

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Spedometer starting at 20

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Both bumpers have some pitting, but other than the dent on the front one, are actually in better shape than most I've seen if I can polish them up. 

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Fenders from both sides, as well as turn signal assemblies and headlight buckets are in great shape and don't really have more than just surface rust. 

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Doors are untouched, all glass is there as well as interior panels. Locks work, they roll up and down too! Original mirrors still attached on both sides.

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Here's the craziness. Driver side has nothing more than some surface rust and minor pitting... passenger side is nonexistent.

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Old wood steering I can clean up. 

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Battery acid, I bet. Can you get a few more angles? It looks bad, but not necessarily unfixable. How much rust on the rest of the car? How serious is the surface rust on the quarter panel?

Definitely seems like battery acid considering the condition on some of the other parts. I'll get more pics tomorrow. After talking to my brother I think I'm gonna use the parts on my 280z for now and get that moving and looking good sooner, then maybe spend the next several years learning some metal work and slowly fixing the chassis on the 240z

 

You guys should have seen our adventure getting this thing into my carport though. No brakes, no transmission right now. Back door neighbor left his truck in the alley for some stupid reason, and I was nervous we'd hit that at first since the car was moving pretty quick once it was rolling off the trailer. There's a downhill slope into my carport which was extra scary. We set up 2x4s leading down the slope and on the pavement to slow it down, but even then I couldn't get the wheel straightened out and got about 3-4 inches from hitting the wall. No incidents, so fortunately it just turned into a fun story. 

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  • 1 month later...

Ordered some parts from Black Dragon. Unfortunately most of what I actually wanted had already sold out now that they're close. Bought the inner and outer rubber gearshift boots that are torn on my car, a couple door handles since they were so cheap, misc door stuff that I was missing to clean things up and the cheapest car cover they had (because the nice ones that would otherwise be well over $100 were sold out... of course)

 

Talked to my dad about getting a  relative to finish up some of the more urgent metal work so I can hopefully drive the car back here and make more progress on it, but in the meantime I've just been taking some parts I'll be using off the series 1 and cleaning them up. Really happy I found the original wood knob in the middle of the junk in the back to match the steering. restoring those two is probably my first mini-project so I'm not twiddling my thumbs being away from the car.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I caved and bought a new passenger fender from Black Dragon. Would have bought both if the driver side was still available. With the cost of shipping plus sanding and cleanup required on the ones I just picked up on the 240 I figured I was out about as much just to get the one I need back home, plus this way I have backup in the future if any minor accidents happen. 

 

Hard to turn down a brand new fender for $100...

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  • 2 weeks later...

Current shopping list should be ready for me around Thanksgiving or at least when I'm home for a couple weeks around Christmas:

updated stock brake stuff

new brake master cylinder

Wheel well frame rail patch plates

Xenon front air dam to fit the 240z turn signals

 

And still debating on a Skillard front air dam with turn signal deletes, or using a 240z grill. If anyone has an experience with the Skillard grill I'd be happy to hear it before I go for the purchase.

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Get with me before you order this stuff. I may have some of it and also have the upgraded toyota front brakes. All coming off my car with the engine (and the Triple Webers), trans, etc. I think my airdam & spoiler are the Xenon and I might have a grille too.

 

The project sounds like it's coming along!

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Get with me before you order this stuff. I may have some of it and also have the upgraded toyota front brakes. All coming off my car with the engine (and the Triple Webers), trans, etc. I think my airdam & spoiler are the Xenon and I might have a grille too.

 

The project sounds like it's coming along!

 

The master cylinder and some pads/shoes I'll probably just buy new, but I'd definitely be interested in the toyota calipers, the air dam, and the grille. I think there are some small mods needed to fit the 240 grill onto the 280, which I don't mind but sadly there's no grill on the series 1 I bought...

 

Also I'm still at least curious about the engine setup in your car. I know I should be worried about that until later, but I've been fascinated by the high revving 2.6. Being a technology fan I've been leaning towards megasquirt instead of carbs though.

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Let me know. The pads were a special compound and have almost no miles on them. I'd see how they go. I have an early and late 240 grille at least. That engine was a screamer for a 6. It was fun to drive and really liked to rev with the cam, balancing and other work on it. You could always megasquirt it later after you get her on the road. I have a 5 speed trans out of a 280 and a spare rear you can have. I'm not shure what condition they are in. The parts that are in my car should be good. I have a unilite on that engine and I'll have to look to see what else.

 

These cars are a slippery slope. I'm going to try and get the engine out in the next bit. Car need to roll for a little bit but I have the makings for a rotisserie. JD and I have been working on 8.8 and rear suspension ideas a bit. I think we're headed in the right direction there. I'll have quite a few spares you can have from my car if you stay more stock with this one.

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That'd be awesome. Yeah, I'm definitely sticking closer to stock stuff at least for now. would rather invest my money in finishing rust stuff/brakes/suspension. I really just want to focus on something that would be a fun, reliable, street car.

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  • 1 month later...

Been putting in some work just to fit the new passenger fender now that I'm home. Required a bit of pushing and bending and some grinding on some non visible spots to get it to sit right. Still need to take a Dremel to the lower fender openings to be able to fit into the now not-quite-aligned openings in the new rocker panels.

 

I got a K&N filter and aluminum tubing so I wouldn't be pushing dust through the engine every time I tested something. It's satisfying!

 

Got patch plates for the rusted frame rail spots in the wheel wells as well as delete plates for the holes from the old bumpers.

 

Also got the ignition switch but it's not QUITE the same and I'm wondering if I should return for a different one, or if this is just how they come now. Was looking through the FSM and I'm not sure what the two wires on mine lead to.

 

I'll add more pics once I'm back home with an actual computer and after I've done just a little bit more welding.

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