Pac_Man Posted May 7, 2015 Author Share Posted May 7, 2015 Since it was the easiest thing to test, I tried moving the distributor. Once I turned it as far as I could clockwise, the car would start and run if I kept my foot on the accelerator just a bit, but died as soon as I let off. Once I got the chance, I removed the bolts as cgsheen suggested and messed with it a bit more. This is the result: Still no tachometer, though. No oil pressure gauge, either. I'm starting to wonder if I disconnected a ground somewhere or something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgsheen Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 If it runs with the distributor out of position, you have the spindle in wrong - you're probably off a tooth or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pac_Man Posted May 30, 2015 Author Share Posted May 30, 2015 Life has been pretty crazy with school, taking 4 classes in one quarter is killer sometimes! I ran into more issues, specifically the transmission mount and the driveshaft. I wanted to get the transmission mounted and bolted before finalizing my measurement for the driveshaft. Through my research I found a post saying that the T5 is 30mm longer than a normal L28 and Nissan transmission. I had a transmission crossmember from a 280zx with the curve in it. That curve places the transmission mount 15mm back, which left me with needing another 15mm. I had heard stuff like "I notched it" and "this guy used a differential mount" but the only thing that made sense to me was modifying the mount. I was recommended a fabrication guy who works out of his garage and does primarily old hot rod stuff. He cut the center part of the transmission crossmember and moved it back 15mm (0.59"). I took it home, spray painted it, installed it, and it fits! So for anyone's future reference, the T5 sits back 30mm. The curved crossmember gives you 15mm, so just cut it and reweld it another 15mm back and you're golden. I forgot to take a picture out of the car so I snapped one of it installed: Next up was the driveshaft. I'm not sure if I mentioned it earlier in the thread but I went with the route that was recommended to me of having one built. Others have used Powertrain Industries in California with good things to say so I went with them as well. For anyone interested in having one built by them, the part numbers used were: Slip yoke: 1203-26S Differential flange: 1202-39 This is a setup for the slip yoke of the Nissan/BW non world class T5 found in the 280zx turbo and the differential flange of my stock 280z r200. My measurement for the driveshaft from the face of the transmission output seal to the face of the differential pinion flange was 26 1/8". I make no guarantees on the accuracy of that measurement for your purposes. This is with the L28ET motor mounts if it makes a difference, though I've heard they're the same. After installing the driveshaft, I reinstalled the rear sway bar with the new end links. Needless to say this was a big step toward having this car finally back on the road. I still have some kinks to work out. My gauges still aren't working and I'm not entirely sure why. I'm suspicious of my alternator not charging the battery even though I don't think the charge light comes on. I still can't figure out why my tach and oil/water gauge do not work, though I'm curious if the alternator has any effect on that. I also need to reclock the distributor/oil pump drive shaft. The ECU fuel pump wiring setup I have doesn't seem to work either. Worst case scenario I guess I'd just wire it hot since I already have a killswitch installed. Once those issues are taken care of she will be ready to get back on the streets. I think for breaking in the engine I'm going to run it for a while with just a screamer pipe where the wastegate would normally go to prevent building boost pressure. I know it will be loud but then I won't have to worry about building boost while breaking it in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 I think for breaking in the engine I'm going to run it for a while with just a screamer pipe where the wastegate would normally go to prevent building boost pressure. I know it will be loud but then I won't have to worry about building boost while breaking it in. Yea, don't do that... You can just drive the car off boost if you are breaking in a rebuilt engine, you really shouldn't be romping on it anyway so that shouldn't be too hard. If you don't think you can control your self, just unhook the turbo cold side and put a filter on the charge pipe. The turbo will build boost and blow air out without it making it to the engine, and your engine will just breath in air through the charge pipe. I would also make sure your gauges are up before playing with it too much, a local friend just seized his rebuilt motor from a lack of oil pressure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgsheen Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 The ECU fuel pump wiring setup I have doesn't seem to work either. Worst case scenario I guess I'd just wire it hot since I already have a killswitch installed. After the first swap we did, we started just using the ZXT fuel pump relay. It's actually a very simple circuit and then you just need to find the green wire to the fuel pump in the passenger footwell. You simply tie the "output" of the fuel pump relay to the Green (fuel pump voltage) wire in that harness on the passenger floor that runs to the rear of the S30. If you don't have the ZXT relay you can wire another standard relay in it's place. The circuit diagram describes this very well and it's simple to do. As easy as this is, DON'T wire the fuel pump "hot" - let the ECU control the fuel pump like it's supposed to. Much safer that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malibud Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 Will this work for the 300zx ECU . I have a l28et with a re mapped z32 ECU and it is "hot wired" would like to run it to the ECU . thanks .. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgsheen Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 I don't think so (at least not this easily), but I'd have to look at the circuit diagram for the Z32. They introduced a "safety circuit" and re-designed the fuel pump circuit at some point. With the Infiniti M30 ECU as an example, you have to rewire the entire circuit back to the fuel pump... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malibud Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 Thanks for the response. I am going to look into an after market kill switch wired to oil pressure. Not to hijack the thread, I have enjoyed reading about the swap.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 An oil pressure switch and a relay would probably do the job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pac_Man Posted June 2, 2015 Author Share Posted June 2, 2015 Yea, don't do that... You can just drive the car off boost if you are breaking in a rebuilt engine, you really shouldn't be romping on it anyway so that shouldn't be too hard. If you don't think you can control your self, just unhook the turbo cold side and put a filter on the charge pipe. The turbo will build boost and blow air out without it making it to the engine, and your engine will just breath in air through the charge pipe. I would also make sure your gauges are up before playing with it too much, a local friend just seized his rebuilt motor from a lack of oil pressure. What would the difference really be? With what I was thinking of, the turbo would not really see boost in the first place. With what you're suggesting, the turbo wouldn't build boost since the air would just be blowing out into the atmosphere instead of being compressed in the intake and cylinders. And I made sure I had oil pressure before starting the car. It seems like there are two schools of thought for breaking in engines- treat it gently for a couple thousand miles or romp on it like you would normally. The most important thing seems to be using compression braking to push the rings out and seat them properly against the cylinders. This could be achieved without driving it hard but when I asked a tech (who has done these swaps plenty of times and is very familiar with Nissan's L series engines), he said get it on the road and put a load on it as soon as possible to break it in. This is what I had already planned on doing when I talked to him. After the first swap we did, we started just using the ZXT fuel pump relay. It's actually a very simple circuit and then you just need to find the green wire to the fuel pump in the passenger footwell. You simply tie the "output" of the fuel pump relay to the Green (fuel pump voltage) wire in that harness on the passenger floor that runs to the rear of the S30. If you don't have the ZXT relay you can wire another standard relay in it's place. The circuit diagram describes this very well and it's simple to do. As easy as this is, DON'T wire the fuel pump "hot" - let the ECU control the fuel pump like it's supposed to. Much safer that way. I tried that as you were the one who informed me of it in a separate post I made regarding some wiring confusion. I'll double check my wiring but with that setup I wasn't getting voltage from the relay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 "Tech" doesn't mean much these days. No offense to any techs out there, but it's just the title that shops give to people that work there. If you can turn a bolt without cross-threading you can probably get a "tech" title. As opposed to a certification or degree in a technical field, like automotive mechanics. Even a certification is only as valuable as the organization that gives it. The factory probably knew what they were doing when they wrote their break-in procedure. Page 27. http://www.xenons130.com/files/ownersmanuals/1982%20280zx%20ownersmanual.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 Yup, titles are thrown around nowadays. I met a chemical engineer at the mall. She was the girl selling makeup. Makes me a bit upset as an actual chemistry major. If you just run straight through the screamer pipe with no waste gate it will be loud as balls. That might not bother you, but don't really need to make a bad name for yourself you know? If you let it run the normal path with a waste gate with the compressor to charge pipe coupler disconnected the turbo will still spool a bit and circulate oil, but you won't be putting boost through the engine. Ideally you just leave everything hooked up and functioning and just drive it as instructed in the break in procedure. How rebuilt is your engine? I don't really see what you did to it in this thread. There are certain myths regarding certain break in procedures, and some things are out dated. There are also very specific ways to break in new individual parts depending on what you are reusing etc. I think I generally followed the "how to rebuild" book along with several oil changes. I believe you drive normally and try to vary the RPM's. That doesn't mean throw it under max load all the way to red line and bounce it off the limiter, but it also doesn't mean to put around town at idle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pac_Man Posted June 2, 2015 Author Share Posted June 2, 2015 (edited) "Tech" doesn't mean much these days. No offense to any techs out there, but it's just the title that shops give to people that work there. If you can turn a bolt without cross-threading you can probably get a "tech" title. As opposed to a certification or degree in a technical field, like automotive mechanics. Even a certification is only as valuable as the organization that gives it. The factory probably knew what they were doing when they wrote their break-in procedure. Page 27. http://www.xenons130.com/files/ownersmanuals/1982%20280zx%20ownersmanual.pdf Guess it was force of habit from my last job. Like I said, he has done these swaps plenty of times and is very familiar with the engines. He does swaps, tuning, all kinds of stuff. He's an older guy who has been doing this for years. Don't let my use of the word tech distract you from the other info, I wouldn't listen to him if I didn't know he knows what he's doing. Yup, titles are thrown around nowadays. I met a chemical engineer at the mall. She was the girl selling makeup. Makes me a bit upset as an actual chemistry major. If you just run straight through the screamer pipe with no waste gate it will be loud as balls. That might not bother you, but don't really need to make a bad name for yourself you know? If you let it run the normal path with a waste gate with the compressor to charge pipe coupler disconnected the turbo will still spool a bit and circulate oil, but you won't be putting boost through the engine. Ideally you just leave everything hooked up and functioning and just drive it as instructed in the break in procedure. How rebuilt is your engine? I don't really see what you did to it in this thread. There are certain myths regarding certain break in procedures, and some things are out dated. There are also very specific ways to break in new individual parts depending on what you are reusing etc. I think I generally followed the "how to rebuild" book along with several oil changes. I believe you drive normally and try to vary the RPM's. That doesn't mean throw it under max load all the way to red line and bounce it off the limiter, but it also doesn't mean to put around town at idle. Crank was shaved down .010" and bearings were appropriately replaced. Cylinders were honed and new pistons and rings were installed. Everything else was checked and of course gaskets and such were replaced. I suppose "romp on it" was more aggressive wording than I was going for. And putting a filter on the charge pipe would be difficult as I'm using the stock J pipe... I'd have to think about that one. Edited June 2, 2015 by Pac_Man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 So a fairly comprehensive rebuild. I would say just plumb everything up and run the waste gate as designed and just stay off boost. You won't build much pressure even at high rpm unless you really give it a lot of throttle quickly. Broken in well you will have plenty of time to enjoy it. Seems like you have a few things to check off before hand though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 Since you've already started it and run it for a while it may be too late, but I would focus on the cam shaft and rocker arms, if they're new. That seems to be the most common problem people have with rebuilt L6's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pac_Man Posted June 3, 2015 Author Share Posted June 3, 2015 So a fairly comprehensive rebuild. I would say just plumb everything up and run the waste gate as designed and just stay off boost. You won't build much pressure even at high rpm unless you really give it a lot of throttle quickly. Broken in well you will have plenty of time to enjoy it. Seems like you have a few things to check off before hand though. Yes, it's a slow process since I'm in my final two weeks of university. Once I'm done I'll have a lot more time to get things finalized. I'll just keep the setup normal and keep an eye on my boost gauge. Since you've already started it and run it for a while it may be too late, but I would focus on the cam shaft and rocker arms, if they're new. That seems to be the most common problem people have with rebuilt L6's. Head was checked but not rebuilt. Just changed the valve seals. I've seen the same issues, but luckily I don't have to worry about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pac_Man Posted June 27, 2015 Author Share Posted June 27, 2015 Well, I've been an official college graduate for coming on two weeks now and I hadn't touched my car. I decided to change that today. The main issue I wanted to check was my charging system. I noticed that the charging light wasn't on with the key in the on position and the engine off, so I knew something was wrong. I pulled the gauge and inspected the bulb; the filament was intact and there was continuity from the prongs on the side to the base, so I knew that wasn't my issue. Next I checked for voltage at the connector and there was none, which if memory serves means that the charge light should be on [citation needed]. I went inside to check the FSM and wiring diagram and found that one wire feeds voltage to the tach, oil/water gauge, and the volt/fuel gauge. From previous endeavors I knew that the tach and oil/water gauge wire was not getting voltage from the fuse panel, so I knew that the fuse panel must not be getting voltage from the source wire. I didn't delve fully into figuring out why, but I think it's tied into either the old ignition/EFI relay or the Ignition Control Module- both of which have been disconnected. I cut the wire at the back of the fuse panel and spliced it into a known 12v switched source just to test it. Went to start the car but forgot to hit the fuel pump switch, however I saw that the tachometer was bouncing while cranking! I turned on the fuel pump, started the car, and my tach, oil/water, and voltmeter gauges all work now and the charging circuit is functioning normally! Maybe a small victory, but I've really been struggling to find the motivation to work on my car recently. I've got a list of what needs to be done, and I'm going to start working through it. I also did the final torquing of the crank pulley bolt today, so I guess that's another thing to cross off the list. Allons-y! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pac_Man Posted July 4, 2015 Author Share Posted July 4, 2015 (edited) Over the course of a few days I've been working on the differential. I had been experiencing some noise on deceleration around 45mph and it looked like the axle seals were a bit wet from oil weeping. I decided to pull the diff and service it just to be on the safe side, as the last thing I'd want is for the diff to run low on oil and lock up on the freeway and ruin everything else with it. Long story short, did a lot of wrestling with the rear end of the car and dropped the diff out. Drained it, ordered and replaced the axle seals, scraped off the old cover gasket and replaced it with permatex ultra black. Let it cure and then torqued it down. Then refilled it with GL5 80w-90 gear oil. I noticed some clearance issues between the control arms and the stub axles in the diff when dropping it so I waited until it was bolted back up to place them back in. Pretty easy with the wheels off and a long enough piece of pipe, just a couple good smacks with a hammer and they seated themselves. Getting the half shafts back in was tricky so I left the bolts holding the control arms a bit loose to give me a little more room to play with. After that I bolted the driveshaft back up followed by the sway bar. The car is finally back on four wheels with fresh fluids all around. This marks a huge job off of my list of things to do, but I still have a few more things before it's ready to be driven: Hook up 12v switched to the fuse box for the gauges Finalize the fuel pump wiring Clean up the wiring with wiring harness sleeve and liquid electrical tape as needed Bleed the clutch slave cylinder Drop and align the oil pump shaft Final torque down of motor mounts Have downpipe and wastegate dump tube modified so I can at least drive it to the exhaust shop Edited July 4, 2015 by Pac_Man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pac_Man Posted July 25, 2015 Author Share Posted July 25, 2015 A lot of what I've done recently in the time I've had has been cleaning things up and putting the car back together. I put wiring cover stuff over pretty much everything new that I added. Fuel pump is all wired up with a relay and I found a different spot for the boost/AFR gauge which will hopefully be secure enough and out of the way. ECU is mounted so the harness is out of the way of my feet. Wiring is tucked up out of the way and exposed wires have been covered with liquid tape. Passenger seat and glove box are back in. One of my AN fittings for the loop on the oil cooler block attachment was leaking so I decided to just buckle down and make the new lines to go to the oil cooler. The idea of all that air being in the oil system didn't settle well with me so I unhooked both lines and used an old turkey baster to pour oil into one fitting held above the cooler while the air purged from the other fitting. Added a little extra as well to compensate. Fixed a pretty significant oil leak with the bonus of getting my oil cooler hooked up which will make me feel a lot better about preserving the life of my oil cooled turbo. Right now the main issue on my plate is that the car seems to want to die once it starts to warm up. Not sure if it's because I haven't gotten my timing dialed in or an electrical issue. I've done some research but most of what I find pertains to NA cars and involves ignition modules or vacuum advance. I'm suspicious of the CHTS since I never changed it, so I'll have to do some resistance testing and see what that gets me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pac_Man Posted August 5, 2015 Author Share Posted August 5, 2015 I tried using a friend's spare ECU which he had in his car and it was running fine. Still having the idle death upon warm up issue. I drove the car to the exhaust shop and back essentially problem-free. Thermostat was out and it never really seemed to warm up as a result. However, the car was warmer once I got back and the temp needle started to climb. Within maybe a minute of sitting in the driveway, the car died just like it has been. i replaced the CHTS just to be sure and it hasn't changed anything. I suspected maybe my fuel pump, but then the issue would probably be more prominent while driving if anything. I know the AFM is good because aforementioned friend ran it in his car when he was having issues. At this point I'm really stumped, though the only thing that points to being suspect to me is my idle control setup. I'll have to do some reading of the FSM and see if something in my setup would cause this issue. I've heard there's an idle adjustment screw on the bottom of the L28ET throttle body but I have no idea where it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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