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Just starting my ls1/t56 build!


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how does a mail order tune work? do you mail in your pcm and he updates it and then mails it back?

Exactly, I filled out the order form online and sent a copy with the pcm and got it back in less than a week. You have 90 days of free updates too, you pay shipping both ways each time. I listed all of the codes I couldn't get rid of and he cleared them out. The relearn procedure couldn't be done on mine so he got rid of it for me.

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I just ordered a new resonator for the exhaust as a single straight through muffler is just not enough... way to damn loud. Once that gets installed, I'll take it to texasspeed and have them dynotune it. I'm just worried that with the extra HP, I'll hurt my half-shafts faster... ugh need to get CV's quickly!

 

anyone know of a cheaper way to get CV's than with ermish-racing's cv's? That's about 850... I just need something that I know will hold up with a stock ls1 for now. MM is no longer so no clue how to get adapters to build my own.

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 I'm just worried that with the extra HP, I'll hurt my half-shafts faster... ugh need to get CV's quickly!

 

anyone know of a cheaper way to get CV's than with ermish-racing's cv's? That's about 850... I just need something that I know will hold up with a stock ls1 for now. MM is no longer so no clue how to get adapters to build my own.

Torque, traction, and shock loads damage the drivetrain.  Not just the available numbers.  You can't even buy a set of adapters for half of $850.  But Chequered Flag Joe took over MM's business and makes adapters and shafts if you do it anyway.  You'll have to call him his web site is out of date.  Copied some links to other options.

 

http://www.chequeredflagracing.net/Datsun.html

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/119708-modern-motorsports-240sx-rear-caliper-brackets/

http://www.driveshaftshop.com/import-axles/datsun-510-240z-c-v-conversion-kit-with-108mm-flanges

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/123305-need-some-opinions-on-rear-half-shaft-route-with-r200-vlsd/

 

 

Why don't you just buy another ECM and send that one in for tuning?  Then swap it in when it gets back.  They're wrecking yard products, right?  $40?

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Forgot about this guy.  He seems to be coming in on the low end of price and people seem happy with the products.  Don't know who he is, just see him filling up his product portfolio.

 

One example.  He has a whole bunch of other products.

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/123612-new-part-chromoly-axle-companion-flange-to-930cv/

 

https://zcardepot.com/driveline/rear-axle/axle-stub-companion-flange-chromoly-930-cv-racing.html?search=axle

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NewZed thanks for summarizing all of those drivetrain posts!

 

I would be less concerned with the few extra ponies on the dyno and more concerned with them strapping it down and not allowing tire spin. RebekahsZ did mention to me the R200 and stock 280z stub axles handled his LS2 power just fine with spirited driving on the road. Throw wider tires or slicks on there and things change real quick.

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Personally I think you will be ok with the stock size tires.  There is a guy on here with a 5.3 turbo on stock u-joints (granted its the 280) but he has had only one issue and I believe that was on the dyno.  He's got a ton of power but what gives first?  The tires spinning.  

 

I say just take it relatively easy until you can upgrade!  My fear is snapping a stub axle and sending a tire into oncoming traffic or breaking a half axle and sheering your brake lines or fuel lines...

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However I'm on the stock R180 with halfshafts.. do you think it'll hold up to the ls1 vs an r200?

It won't hold up as well as an R200.  And the spinning tire insurance policy will still wear the differential out eventually, since there will be a lot of one-wheel spinning.

 

Your system is unbalanced.  Don't forget about the diff mount problem also.  You'll probably tear it first, before any of those other problems happen.

 

Nickels and dimes.  Might as well sit down, list out the parts, and do the math on where you want to end up.  

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I'm kinda wondering about the whole diff honestly.. because if I was an open diff.. shouldn't I get one wheel burnouts a lot? Yet when my tires spin.. both are because my back end slides out a bit. In fact now that I think of it, every time my tires have spun, my back end stepped out a bit, which should indicate that both tires are spinning? The PO already welded the front diff mount to be solid. So makes me wonder if he did also welded up the diff? 

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