enforcercars Posted January 13, 2016 Share Posted January 13, 2016 trackspeed, just recieved my CX racing swap kit, this is really nice. Thanks for helping answer my questions, I think that people will start buying more of there products after seeing the quality they get. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackzpeed Posted January 13, 2016 Author Share Posted January 13, 2016 great, good luck... time to start a build log. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackzpeed Posted January 27, 2016 Author Share Posted January 27, 2016 A quick shot of the CX kit in action..... 002.MOV Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted January 28, 2016 Share Posted January 28, 2016 That would be so hard in the rain! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackzpeed Posted February 3, 2016 Author Share Posted February 3, 2016 (edited) Time for another update of the "facts" .... JCI- Way more positive feedback than not.... Difficult fitment seems to related more to a tired Z-car than kit quality. Works with JTR headers and low mount alternator location. Very complete kit with a build manual (although some feel manual is not that great) and most of the goodies to get your LS1 Z on the road. A proven kit all in all. Dingo- Does work with JTR headers and no change to steering rod.... Trans mount is a pick of everyone else. Uses stock Z mount locations for good support but needs a high mount alternator bracket to work.... Dingo, speedway, and others sell the bracket for less that $200... Ive also posted a link to "nasty z28" for a cheap high mount alternative. Easy motor mount install but after that your on your own to figure out the rest. With the Hybrid community, it is very doable. CXR- I have a complete build with this kit in a 240z, and it was a pretty easy journey for me with hand tools in my garage.... Measure 10X and install once. check my build log for more info. CX keeps adding to their kit for completeness.... Currently with all mounts and full exhaust with LT headers. I am using a low mount alternator without clearance issues. I chose a custom Y back 3inch exhaust.... saved some $ and had my choice of muffler. Rumor has it that CX is working on a driveline as well for their kit, I cut down my aluminum Camaro shaft . I believe you could use the Dingo mounts with CXR headers. The headers are angled to work with their Y pipe so take that into consideration if you buy those alone. Hawks- Only works with their LT headers from what I can tell....... They offer a trans mount that welds in versus all the other bolt ins... I love to have some feedback from a completed and running build. Hokes performance: beautiful stuff.... Don't know of any complete builds or cost, but worth looking into if your serious about your car. According to his site, the Cxr long tube headers work with his mount kit. DIY- Cheap and easy but you need to dial in placement. I'm leery of Z frame unibody strength not tied to a crossbar. Quite a few have been done with success so I would love to hear some feedback from hard driver / track guys. Thanks to all for the input. Jim (trackzpeed) Edited February 5, 2016 by trackzpeed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackzpeed Posted March 27, 2016 Author Share Posted March 27, 2016 Just herd from a dingo builder the cxracing headers will fit.... So,add that to the list. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hornedcow Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 Dingo works CXRacing headers, also works with their low mount alternator setup. Would most likely work with stock low mount setup as their stuff puts it in the same location but I cannot say 100%. If you do use the low mount alternator setup with the dingo mounts, you lose about 1/2" to 1/4" of travel with positioning the engine. You lose about 1" if you keep the stock F-body alternator with that big plastic snorkel on the back. You lose less if you use an alternator off of another vehicle without the big snorkel. I think I got one from a late model 4.3L engine. Utilizes the same casing and rear mounting tab but with a flat back casing. If you max out the mounts all the way back, the mount hits the charging post on the alternator. No good. I picked up a charging post extension off of a Ford alternator that brings the charging stud off to the side of the alternator. Still a tight fit, but better than before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackzpeed Posted July 23, 2016 Author Share Posted July 23, 2016 (edited) It's been a awhile since I checked this thread...... A quick update for CXR mounts. There have been a few comments/concerns/observations about how "high" the CXR mounts place the motor. I did some research and it does in fact appear that these mounts sit higher than most everything out there from what I can tell, which will raise the cars CG, traditionally declining the handling. The trade off is better oil pan clearance, good angulation of motor to drive line..... And I read from the monster miata crowd the LS likes a few degrees tilt in the back for oiling issues (need to research that more to be honest). I just installed my TTT triangulated strut brace (made for straight six) and I have tons of clearance..... Indicating that my LS on CXR mounts still sits lower than stock for better CG than stock, with continued pan clearance, and angulation. I'm not endorsing one kit over another, just posting my results to help future swappers make an informed choice. My .02. Jim Edited July 23, 2016 by trackzpeed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan Merrill Posted October 10, 2016 Share Posted October 10, 2016 I can add a little to the CX thread. I have no issue with the kits other than the height makes it a little difficult to fit a 4L80e in the trans tunnel of a 240z. The kits fits well and is constructed well. My Transmission mount was welded slightly crooked and after sending in a few emails CX racing, they never answered. I called and left two messages, again, no returned calls. I'm going auto so it doesn't matter much to me other than the monetary loss. Here is a few picture of the clearance. Oil pan is the C5 batwing which is the shallowest of pans out there.It sits about 1" above the cross member. Keep in mind the engine is slightly tipped back because the trans is out currently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan Merrill Posted October 10, 2016 Share Posted October 10, 2016 This is my problem with the CX Trans Mount kit, its not square Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the350z Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 Im doing a 2005 5.3 swap in my early 260z and using dirty dingo mounts and a "muscle car oil pan kit" (summit pn NAL-19212593) which was supposed to be similar to the LS1 oil pan. We are currently sittin on the steering rack with the mounts adjusted to their highest points. Im curious as to how people have altered their steering racks to work with these mounts because I have also heard of people having to mess with the rack to fit it in while others don't, although I cant find anything on it currently Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 The350Z - if you have the right engine mounts and oil pan you don't have to modify your steering rack. Get the right parts and you'll be fine. Don't get caught on the "modification" spiral where one bad part/decision leads to another which leads to another which....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackzpeed Posted February 24, 2017 Author Share Posted February 24, 2017 LS1 pan should work..... I'm using CX mounts but I believe the Dingo mounts are pretty close to the same. I agree with Phantom, use what works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Oben Posted February 24, 2017 Share Posted February 24, 2017 I think what we are all saying is the muscle car pan may be an LS1 pan so is the GTO, neither of them are the F body pan, or the C5 pan. Spend a little now on the right pan and you will be happier in the end. JMHO, Richard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackzpeed Posted February 25, 2017 Author Share Posted February 25, 2017 Well said Richard. By "LS1" I was Implying f body but did not say that. Two thumbs up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the350z Posted March 5, 2017 Share Posted March 5, 2017 (edited) Messaged summit before purchase to see about this pan kit compared to the F body* pan in terms of size and fitment and was told it was actually a bit smaller. Also with a little adjusting and a lot more daylight and patience it fits fine and I clear the the rack no problem. Have to check pan to ground clearance (on jack stands) because my car is lowered.. Still a slow budget minded build at this point. Pretty close to running, setting up my fuel cell and lines soon and with a little more wiring itll fire up! Edited March 5, 2017 by the350z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zfan1 Posted March 6, 2017 Share Posted March 6, 2017 I can add a little to the CX thread. I have no issue with the kits other than the height makes it a little difficult to fit a 4L80e in the trans tunnel of a 240z. The kits fits well and is constructed well. My Transmission mount was welded slightly crooked and after sending in a few emails CX racing, they never answered. I called and left two messages, again, no returned calls. I'm going auto so it doesn't matter much to me other than the monetary loss. Here is a few picture of the clearance. Oil pan is the C5 batwing which is the shallowest of pans out there.It sits about 1" above the cross member. Keep in mind the engine is slightly tipped back because the trans is out currently. What pinion angle did you come up with when installing the 4L80E? Just curious as I am trying to get mine dialed in because I am tired of listening to the rear end whine/howl! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted March 6, 2017 Share Posted March 6, 2017 What pinion angle did you come up with when installing the 4L80E? Just curious as I am trying to get mine dialed in because I am tired of listening to the rear end whine/howl! You have your causes and effects mixed up. The wrong pinion angle can cause propeller shaft vibration, not diff noise. Diff noise is mostly inherent to the R200 design, and isolated from the cabin by mounting it properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackzpeed Posted October 19, 2017 Author Share Posted October 19, 2017 Anyone want to add new and updated info to this list? After I completed my swap, it's too hard to keep up with all of the changes out there, but this list can still be helpful for many JCI- Way more positive feedback than not.... Difficult fitment seems to related more to a tired Z-car than kit quality. Works with JTR headers and low mount alternator location. Very complete kit with a build manual (although some feel manual is not that great) and most of the goodies to get your LS1 Z on the road. A proven kit all in all. Dingo- Does work with JTR and CX headers and no change to steering rod.... Trans mount is a pick of everyone else. Uses stock Z mount locations for good support but needs a high mount alternator bracket to work.... Dingo, speedway, and others sell the bracket for less that $200... Ive also posted a link to "nasty z28" for a cheap high mount alternative. Easy motor mount install but after that your on your own to figure out the rest. With the Hybrid community, it is very doable. CXR- I have a complete build with this kit in a 240z, and it was a pretty easy journey for me with hand tools in my garage.... Measure 10X and install once. check my build log for more info. CX keeps adding to their kit for completeness.... Currently with all mounts and full exhaust with LT headers. I am using a low mount alternator without clearance issues. I chose a custom Y back 3inch exhaust.... saved some $ and had my choice of muffler. Rumor has it that CX is working on a driveline as well for their kit, I cut down my aluminum Camaro shaft . The headers are angled to work with their Y pipe so take that into consideration if you buy those alone. Hawks- Only works with their LT headers from what I can tell....... They offer a trans mount that welds in versus all the other bolt ins... I love to have some feedback from a completed and running build. Hokes performance: beautiful stuff.... Don't know of any complete builds or cost, but worth looking into if your serious about your car. According to his site, the Cxr long tube headers work with his mount kit. DIY- Cheap and easy but you need to dial in placement. I'm leery of Z frame unibody strength not tied to a crossbar. Quite a few have been done with success so I would love to hear some feedback from hard driver / track guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrk3cobra Posted October 19, 2017 Share Posted October 19, 2017 I am installing a LS2 with the Hoke performance kit. So far the quality is top notch. I would say more expense then the other kits but you get what you pay for. I will post as many pictures as possible and post any issues I run into. The customer service from Austin is the best. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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