RebekahsZ Posted April 6, 2016 Share Posted April 6, 2016 (edited) That clamp is definitely needed. Big write-up within last few years was done where I guy had a car that wandered all over the road after rebuilding the rack. Found that the clamp was missing-replaced the clamp and problem was solved. I'm concerned about alternator clearance on the rack-hope you guys aren't using the low-mount stock F-body alternator-I'm pretty sure it's not gonna fit. Edited April 6, 2016 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackzpeed Posted April 6, 2016 Share Posted April 6, 2016 Wow that hawks kit sets the motor way down..... Is pan clearance to the road going to be an issue? Plus 3 on that clamp too, it's a keeper/necessary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MECH-E Posted April 6, 2016 Author Share Posted April 6, 2016 Hmm...think the rack would be fine if I welded that bracket to the rack and removed the u-bolt...just a few good tacks, shouldnt need a whole bead of weld? The bracket doesnt appear to get in the way, just the u-bolt....currently at least. As for the oil pan, it does stick out below the cross member, I assume a lot of people replace the oil pan with a shallower version if they think it is a big deal. I might try to make some sort of skid plate to protect from road debris, but I sure hope I never land it on a curb or speed bump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stock Car Mafia Posted April 7, 2016 Share Posted April 7, 2016 (edited) That clamp is definitely needed. Big write-up within last few years was done where I guy had a car that wandered all over the road after rebuilding the rack. Found that the clamp was missing-replaced the clamp and problem was solved. I'm concerned about alternator clearance on the rack-hope you guys aren't using the low-mount stock F-body alternator-I'm pretty sure it's not gonna fit. Alternator Clearance - I can prove that the F-body alternator bracket does fit. It is very tight. This is all I have for a picture, however I had to trum the shroud to contour the circular shape of the alt. to clear the steering knuckle. I sat to do some thinking on this because I obviously need a solution too. That bracket could essentially be moved to the passenger side as in this picture? Does anyone see any oposition to this? Edited April 7, 2016 by Stock Car Mafia Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hornedcow Posted April 7, 2016 Share Posted April 7, 2016 I was just looking at my Z up on the lift and the Hawks mounts definitely sit the engine quite a bit lower than the DD mounts do. Which is good for everything, except ground clearance. Going to be tight if you're lowering it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted April 7, 2016 Share Posted April 7, 2016 I stand corrected. Glad the alternator isn't a problem. Mine was tight even with JCI mounts! I think that clamp can go anywhere that it can contact the crossmember as it was designed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stock Car Mafia Posted April 7, 2016 Share Posted April 7, 2016 Hornedcow, you are right. The pan (and the Hawks headers) both sit lower than the cross member by several inches. I never measured mine. As far as ground clearance it SHOULD hit the headers first before the pan. I still am worried about putting strain on the headers, in turn putting force on the header bolts and so forth. For the pan, I think it would be wise to make a skid plate in the future to prevent road debris from contacting and damaging the oil pan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spitsnaugle Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 you get those headers on yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MECH-E Posted April 12, 2016 Author Share Posted April 12, 2016 I tried putting them on with the engine in the bay, doesnt seem possible. I have to pull the engine again anyway, gonna try bolting them on and lowering the motor in assembled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stock Car Mafia Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 You will have to drop the motor in seperate. As you get several inches away from the motor mounts lining up, you then need to drop the headers in. I do believe I put the passenger side in first as the starter is in the way. Then you can shove the motor to the pass side and drop the driver side one in. It's best done with another person. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MECH-E Posted April 12, 2016 Author Share Posted April 12, 2016 (edited) You will have to drop the motor in seperate. As you get several inches away from the motor mounts lining up, you then need to drop the headers in. I do believe I put the passenger side in first as the starter is in the way. Then you can shove the motor to the pass side and drop the driver side one in. It's best done with another person. Gotcha, makes sense. Thanks BTW, I moved that steering rack clamp to the passenger side, looks to work perfectly there. Here are a few shots to show the clearance of the motor between the crossmember, its close but with it all resting on the mounts like its supposed to, I have nothing rubbing. And heres a reference for how far the oil pan sits below the crossmember. Perspective throws the measurement off a bit, its likely 2". Edited April 12, 2016 by MECH-E Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LLave Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 Wow the oil pan is pretty low. My cross member skid plate has its share of scars and battle wounds, which really gives some concern for the oil pan. Is that an F-body oil pan? How is the clearance from the manifold to the firewall? Thank you for taking the time to document your process with photos. I am in the process of mocking up and fabricating my mounts and the reference is really valuable. -Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2eighTZ4me Posted May 9, 2016 Share Posted May 9, 2016 MECH-E - any word on the transmission mount? I just got mine from Hawk's, and I'm really wondering how this thing is going to work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MECH-E Posted May 9, 2016 Author Share Posted May 9, 2016 I just finished it this past weekend, will get picks up soon. Just a heads up, I'm not a big fan of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2eighTZ4me Posted May 9, 2016 Share Posted May 9, 2016 Greaaaaaat....just what I did NOT want to hear. Does it weld to the frame rails or something? I see no provisions for using the stock hangers.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texis30O Posted May 9, 2016 Share Posted May 9, 2016 Here are some pics I took of my car when we were fitting up the Hawk's kit..... I have a blower on the top of my motor so we clearenced the hood latch a bit to clear my rear cog drive system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spitsnaugle Posted May 9, 2016 Share Posted May 9, 2016 Greaaaaaat....just what I did NOT want to hear. Does it weld to the frame rails or something? I see no provisions for using the stock hangers.... sell the mounts, keep the headers, and go buy hoke performance's mount kit. completely bolt in. and the rear mount braces both inside and outside of the frame rail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stock Car Mafia Posted May 10, 2016 Share Posted May 10, 2016 Here are some pics I took of my car when we were fitting up the Hawk's kit..... I have a blower on the top of my motor so we clearenced the hood latch a bit to clear my rear cog drive system. 20140808_142221.jpg20140808_142228.jpg20140808_142232.jpg20140808_142303.jpg20150109_155055.jpg20150109_155125.jpg20150109_161518.jpg20150109_161518.jpg20150109_161538.jpg I just got my motor in using this kit and finally had all my front brake lines in. Mine are REALLY close to the Hawk's headers within 1/8". Did you have them bend new brake lines and reroute them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texis30O Posted May 10, 2016 Share Posted May 10, 2016 I had pulled all my brake lines when I pulled the drivetrain. The shop did run new lines. But Mine were not in the OEM locations to begin with. The original owner of my car added his own version of ABS to the brakes back in the early 80s so the line locations were a bit different..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MECH-E Posted May 12, 2016 Author Share Posted May 12, 2016 Greaaaaaat....just what I did NOT want to hear. Does it weld to the frame rails or something? I see no provisions for using the stock hangers. It welds to the floor of the car, wasnt quite close enought to weld to the frame rails. Getting the floor to have the same shape as the mount proved to be a huge pita. So I cut out the floor, welded a big plate to the top of the mounts, and then welded the plate back to the floor. In all, its massively over designed for the loads that the trans experiences. All the other mounts out there, even the simple JCI kit, are bolt in and I've never heard of one failing. sell the mounts, keep the headers, and go buy hoke performance's mount kit. completely bolt in. and the rear mount braces both inside and outside of the frame rail. Too late, already welded everything in. Will hopefully get around to test fitting those headers in the next few weeks. Right now, they are the sexiest paper weights I've ever had lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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