Smyrna388Z Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 Got tired of fighting with the turn signal lever to get the blinkers to activate. Worked on the OEM switch so many times that the circuit board finally broke. Here is an awesome repair solution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 (edited) Nice! We need a section in the Electrical forum that centralizes all of the information on combo switch repair. Like the section recently set up for Cooling Systems. https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2012/12/04/turn-signal-repair/ Edited August 1, 2016 by Miles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grannyknot Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 Nicely done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 (edited) That switch also controls the brake light circuit. The brake light gets cut out of the circuit in the R/L turn position. Brake lights still function ok? Do you have specs on the switch? Edited September 24, 2016 by Miles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smyrna388Z Posted August 1, 2016 Author Share Posted August 1, 2016 Operation of the switch is better than original; glides easily into position and easily returns to off position with steering actuators. The original switch always seemed to drag and function was hit and miss. Brakes lights work as designed, no issues. Switch used was Dorman part #85905. I picked it up at Autozone. Note the two nuts used as spacers under the mounting plate. The spacers were required with this switch to set the switch arm at the right position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calZ Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 That's a two position toggle switch, correct? So when it's not signaling the switch is just held vertical which is off? Probably not really designed to be used that way, but I guess I don't see why it wouldn't be ok other than the toggle spring possibly wearing more quickly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smyrna388Z Posted August 2, 2016 Author Share Posted August 2, 2016 (edited) 3 position switch. Center position is off - normal state Signaling simply moves the switch into one of two 'on' positions. The switch is designed to work like I am using it. Only difference is that the signal arm is actuating it instead of my finger tips. If and when the switch fails, a simple $5 replacement can be screwed into place. This conversion will help anyone struggling with a turn signal switch. The price of an OEM replacement rebuilt or new is crazy! Hope this helps someone. Edited August 2, 2016 by Smyrna388Z 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socorob Posted August 4, 2016 Share Posted August 4, 2016 Is it a momentary switch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88dangerdan Posted August 4, 2016 Share Posted August 4, 2016 The switch is an "on-off-on" that can be found at most Auto parts store. I used one for my electric antenna. One side up and the other side down. Coming to rest in the center/off position Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimO Posted August 5, 2016 Share Posted August 5, 2016 Miles, well done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RPMS Posted September 23, 2016 Share Posted September 23, 2016 Thank you, thank you, thank you! I've had the stock switch apart a half dozen times but it still doesn't work right. Great to know there's a better way to fix it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Savage42 Posted September 23, 2016 Share Posted September 23, 2016 (edited) I sent both my turn signal switch and headlight combo switch to Dave Irwin at http://datsun-240z-upgrades.net. Turn around time was less than 48 hours and they look and work like new. The combo switch was broken/jammed and he replaced the arm inside, polished the plastic and replaced connections. On his advice, I upgraded the flasher relays to modern electronic flashers and it all works better than new. For $130 shipped to get both switches done is well worth it. Just my 2 cents. Edited September 25, 2016 by Savage42 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommypress Posted September 28, 2016 Share Posted September 28, 2016 Awesome move! Thank you for this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stike Posted April 21, 2017 Share Posted April 21, 2017 Operation of the switch is better than original; glides easily into position and easily returns to off position with steering actuators. The original switch always seemed to drag and function was hit and miss. Brakes lights work as designed, no issues. Switch used was Dorman part #85905. I picked it up at Autozone. Note the two nuts used as spacers under the mounting plate. The spacers were required with this switch to set the switch arm at the right position. What did you fabricate the plate the new switch is mounted to out of? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smyrna388Z Posted April 21, 2017 Author Share Posted April 21, 2017 It's simply a thin piece of steel. Cut the shape and drill the holes you need for the switch and the screws. My switch is still going strong; no issues. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stike Posted April 24, 2017 Share Posted April 24, 2017 (edited) It's simply a thin piece of steel. Cut the shape and drill the holes you need for the switch and the screws. My switch is still going strong; no issues. Good luck. So my switch has six wires instead of three like yours, any ideas what to do with the other three? My car was built 11/70 if that makes a difference. Edited April 24, 2017 by Stike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwdriver Posted June 6, 2019 Share Posted June 6, 2019 Did you drill the OEM plastic out any to sink the switch lever in to ? If so, what size and depth? In other words, does the switch lever tend to lose contact as it swings from one side to the other? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary 260z Posted October 3, 2019 Share Posted October 3, 2019 Just want to say thanks for posting this idea, i copied it today and it works great so far. I had a similar problem and fixed it with a switch from a hardware store. I did have a little interference with the plastic steering column covers, but was able to reposition the wires on the switch and they fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smyrna388Z Posted June 22, 2020 Author Share Posted June 22, 2020 Cool. Happy it was successful for another Z owner. Im still loving he operation of mine. No more jiggling or multiple strokes to get a turn signal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank J Posted August 1, 2020 Share Posted August 1, 2020 Thank you for this post. Switch On 8/1/2016 at 3:41 PM, Miles said: That switch also controls the brake light circuit. The brake light gets cut out of the circuit in the R/L turn position. Brake lights still function ok? Do you have specs on the switch? Thank you Smyrna388z 😃 I found a switch that has the same function as the 240Z switch, and wires up the same way as the original part so I didn't have to cut or bypass any wires, the housing of the switch is a little bigger than the switch used above so I had to fabricate a larger base plate to mount it on the 240Z turn signal frame but it works great, it has been reliable and very affordable. https://www.amazon.com/American-Autowire-500148-Toggle-Signal/dp/B009T4TPRM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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