rossman Posted February 3, 2018 Share Posted February 3, 2018 Is that silicone hose you are using to mount your ITBs to the manifold? I'm pretty sure fuel will break down the silicone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmehdikh Posted February 3, 2018 Author Share Posted February 3, 2018 6 hours ago, rossman said: Is that silicone hose you are using to mount your ITBs to the manifold? I'm pretty sure fuel will break down the silicone. Yes, its silicone hose, but the fuel injectors are down the line past the hoses and on the manifold flange. Do you think it would still cause problems? Worst case I can always weld it up, the hoses were about $20. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted February 3, 2018 Share Posted February 3, 2018 Ah, I thought the holes in the throttle bodies we're injector holes. It may be ok then. The will still see some fuel so you might want to check them periodically. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmehdikh Posted February 5, 2018 Author Share Posted February 5, 2018 (edited) I'm going to be plugging my old feed, return, and vent holes off the tank and using the stuff from the new pump mount. What are my options for plugging the openings? Are there any fuel safe rubber caps? Or do I have to go with the bolt clamped into a fuel hose method? My datsun's mysterious history continues to baffle me. Started working on installing the fuel pump in the tank today. Cut open the top, cleaned it up etc. Found these guys rattling around inside the tank. No clue where they came from. Any ideas guys? Edited February 5, 2018 by nmehdikh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZHoob2004 Posted February 5, 2018 Share Posted February 5, 2018 Perhaps the insides of a locking gas cap? I found the second original key to my car in my tank, so anything is possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmehdikh Posted February 12, 2018 Author Share Posted February 12, 2018 Started test fitting stuff to check clearances. Also got the fuel pump installed in the tank this weekend. Next weekend is probably going to be running fuel lines, while still procrastinating the mess that is wiring. I also need to get another set of triumph velocity stacks, because the two sets I have are currently mismatched... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmehdikh Posted February 13, 2018 Author Share Posted February 13, 2018 I got a couple questions for you guys. 1) Since I'm going to be running LS coils, what kind of spark plugs should I run and at what gap? 2) Since I rebuild the head and it has a brand new cam, what break-in procedure do you guys recommend? And what oil should I run during break-in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HuD 91gt Posted February 13, 2018 Share Posted February 13, 2018 I’m running NGK bpr6es-11. Same as stock but wider gap. LS guys have their gap set between .050” and .060” it seems. I opened mine to .050” and called it a day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zetsaz Posted February 14, 2018 Share Posted February 14, 2018 Really excited to see how this thing turns out. Keep going back and fourth between some kind of turbo build or just a fun NA. Already have MS3x ready for anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
torynich Posted February 15, 2018 Share Posted February 15, 2018 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmehdikh Posted February 18, 2018 Author Share Posted February 18, 2018 Thanks for the info guys. I appreciate it. This weekend is pretty busy for me so I didn't have much time to work on the car. In the meantime, I finalized the header and intake install and they are on for good. I had to wait for a new gasket that arrived a couple days ago. I also got the thermostat housing on, and the fuel rail and injectors. The throttle bodies are still only on there temporarily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmehdikh Posted February 22, 2018 Author Share Posted February 22, 2018 While I've been doing all this work on the car, I've been in contact with Softopz, and he's been making me a megasquirt harness for my needs. He recently sent me work in progress pics, and has been great to deal with. I'd highly recommend him if you are interested in going the megasquirt route. Here is a link to his thread where he sells harnesses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmehdikh Posted April 8, 2018 Author Share Posted April 8, 2018 I've been traveling for work the past few weeks so I haven't been able to get much done. But this weekend has been pretty productive. Got the distributor swapped over to the turbo distributor to give me crank angle and cam position. Got the AC compressor mounted as well. I had to CAD up and mill out a little bracket to adapt the throttle linkage to the factory triumph cable pull. Here is the completed linkage and a crappy vertical video Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmehdikh Posted May 8, 2018 Author Share Posted May 8, 2018 Progress has been slow due to the following factors : Finals Finding a new apartment Work travel Graduating from college this week Starting a new job on Monday But I had some time this afternoon so I made a mount for the coil packs and got that done. There has also been progress on wiring. chassis re-wiring is done. Need to finish up gauges and tie it all in with the engine harness. Slow and steady. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmehdikh Posted July 7, 2018 Author Share Posted July 7, 2018 Updates! 1) Got the vintage air unit mounted under the dash and AC lines plumbed to a bulkhead fitting in the firewall. 2) Plumbed heater hoses to the vintage air unit as well 3) Got fuel lines completely finished up and mounted up. Including regulator and tank vents. 4) Started plumbing vacuum lines, about 75% done In the next couple of weekends I'll probably be finishing up the vacuum lines. Then mounting the radiator, fan, and coolant plumbing. I also had some time with one of the 3d printers at work, so I modeled up a velocity stack and printed it for some practice. The surface of the print has not been cleaned up at all, hence the left overs from the supports and rough finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmehdikh Posted January 20, 2019 Author Share Posted January 20, 2019 Its been a while since I updated this. Work and grad school really taking up most of my time. But if any of you guys are interested, this crazy idea actually worked. I was able to fire up the car a couple days ago. I wouldn't have been able to do it without the help of softopz or chickenman, if anyone is considering a megasquirt setup, definitely contact them. Here it is warmed up and idling. I haven't messed with the idle screws on the ITBs at all, nor have I completely figured out my IAC yet, but it manages to maintain idle all the way down at 550 rpm. I did a cold valve adjustment when I put the head on, and rechecked it again after running it for a short bit, but I am still getting a lot of valve train noise. The head was rebuilt since the car last ran, and it now has a isky L-490 cam in it. Isky recommended valve clearance of 0.008 for intake and 0.010 for exhaust. https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipN_NSWTqU1tN3p8_JVp7szJaDdhc5ZWN0e7GPRV5N3Po2cQ5dEdTi5KxlpcsvwEbw?key=M1h6WjB6LVFYa1pBNkFkUWpDdy1scnVnZ3RYT3NR Here are some short revs to 3khttps://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPw4LY1RrPY9tM2cJXfVbCpmwAxgEaBIFc62txmmWP2fCwzQAILc4LDuIZNwGHQ7w?key=akJQbnRiSzdaNFhTU2JCdExZZ2pfQ3h1eTF2a05n Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted January 20, 2019 Share Posted January 20, 2019 (edited) Awesome! Just keep at it when you have the time. For me, it's 10 hour days at work and family life that keep me away from my build, but I just keep at it whenever I can. Edited January 20, 2019 by rossman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmehdikh Posted January 21, 2019 Author Share Posted January 21, 2019 Yeah I hear you, just slowly ticking away at it. I have a question about Bosch Idle valves if someone might have some experience with them. I'm using a bosch IAC out of a early 2000s VW (pictured below). The valve behaves as expected, and I can see it close at the proper duty cycles. However, it's only effecting my idle by about 50 rpm. If I put my thumb infront of the idle hole, I can still feel a lot of air being sucked in through the valve even when its fully closed. If I fully cover the IAC intake, the engine shuts down. Are these valves supposed to seal at fully closed? Or do they still leak air by? I think I might have a defective valve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted January 21, 2019 Share Posted January 21, 2019 Sounds like it's not fully closed when you think it's fully closed. How do you know it's fully closed? What are you using to drive it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmehdikh Posted January 21, 2019 Author Share Posted January 21, 2019 It's driven from the megasquirt and behaving as it should. At 0% duty cycle, its slightly open. At 35% duty cycle, its fully closed. At 100% duty cycle, its fully open. The 0% slightly open mode is a fail safe mode.This thread shows the expected behavior of the valve. Here is my valve, as you can see at 35% duty cycle, its closed. But it seems to not actually be sealing shut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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