Dat73z Posted October 8, 2018 Share Posted October 8, 2018 (edited) Hello fellow HybridZ members, Over the years this community has been great and provided tons of info on my rebuild, build, and build again. For context: my initial rebuild was to recondition the entire car mechanically (all new suspension, driveline, powdercoat everything, etc.) and fix all of the rust on the car to make a reliable and fun daily driver which has been a smashing success this past 2/3 years. Afterwards, the first build was pretty basic and focused on improving the driving experience- triple carbs, header, exhaust, some interior, etc. In searching around I haven't found a ton of info online for triple blowthrough setups for the L-series and so far as I know there are only a couple of cars here in the Bay Area which are running this setup currently. I've been collecting the components and slowly tackling the projects associated with this sort of build over the years but am finally at the point where I have most of the pieces in place to make this a relatively straightforward project. I've decided to chronicle this process to keep me on track and hopefully provide info for those curious about this setup in the future. A couple of weekends ago my buddy who is a fellow s30z fanatic drove my car for half a day and liked my last setup so much he bought my triples, manifold, exhaust, header, fuel system, etc. We pulled everything off the next morning and so the 2nd build began. Here is the short list of what's been done so far: Drill carburetors to mount to surge tank and manifold Mount manifold to head ATL black box installed into OEM fuel tank with -6AN feed -8AN return 123 Ignition BT Here's (a long list) of what needs to be done: Set up linkages/throttle cable Run new -6AN and -8AN fuel lines and fuel system Mount electric fans and install fan controller ARP head studs, new headgasket (it has become apparent this past year that my headgasket is leaking fluids all over my block) Install turbo and plumb oil / coolant Install charge piping / intercooler Install downpipe, exhaust Install vacuum lines Some tuning Edited October 8, 2018 by Dat73z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dat73z Posted October 11, 2018 Author Share Posted October 11, 2018 (edited) Mid week update: Parts have been slowly trickling in. Started to mock up the oil and coolant lines and just received the turbo. It's a ball bearing T3/T40E 50 trim/63 AR so not much size difference from the factory T3 but it should meet my power goals easily. I'll use the factory T3 to figure out the relative orientation and true up the clocking on the car. So far so good. Edited October 11, 2018 by Dat73z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dat73z Posted October 11, 2018 Author Share Posted October 11, 2018 (edited) Test fit the turbo, it looks good. The 1/2" stainless flange I drilled out looks to be the perfect spacing. I'll need to do a bunch more fine tuning work with the fitting but at least this is a start. The 3" vband flange from the internal wastegate looks like it will work for the setup with a sharp 90 into a 3" exhaust. Edited October 11, 2018 by Dat73z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dat73z Posted October 11, 2018 Author Share Posted October 11, 2018 Also if anyone has any pictures of how they did their intake I would like to see (and it would be much appreciated!). I want to install AC with this setup and it looks like it will be tight if I mount the compressor where the old air pump used to be. Either way I'll need to fabricate a bunch of heat shields for heat management. Fortunately I have a bunch of 0.080 AL...hopefully it's not too thick for my wimpy sheet metal brake. Otherwise I'll need to get some thinner AL. The plan is once everything is fabricated and mocked up to pull all of the hot components off and have them swain coated before final assembly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1969honda Posted October 11, 2018 Share Posted October 11, 2018 Looks good, if the aluminum is a tad too thick you can always lightly score the inside of the bend with a saw/cutoff/Dremel etc... to make the brake line thinner. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chickenman Posted October 11, 2018 Share Posted October 11, 2018 Very nice project. Well sorted. Only constructive criticism I would make is don't bundle the HT Leads together like that. Even with Spiral Core wires. Bundling together like that can cause cross fire. Especially if you put a stronger coil in later... which is often required. Factory method of HT routing works very well. BTW. if you do go to upgrade the coil. The Allstar 81230 is a good choice. Modern E-Core that is has a lot more spark energy than the older canister coils. Exact same specs at the Crane LX91 . But the LX91's are getting harder and harder to find. At least the OEM Crane models. Both will work with CDI or Inductive ignition. Summit, Jegs and other places carry the Allst 81230. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dat73z Posted October 11, 2018 Author Share Posted October 11, 2018 17 hours ago, 1969honda said: Looks good, if the aluminum is a tad too thick you can always lightly score the inside of the bend with a saw/cutoff/Dremel etc... to make the brake line thinner. Good luck! Thanks for the tip! Didn't consider this but it makes sense will give it a try. 23 minutes ago, Chickenman said: Very nice project. Well sorted. Only constructive criticism I would make is don't bundle the HT Leads together like that. Even with Spiral Core wires. Bundling together like that can cause cross fire. Especially if you put a stronger coil in later... which is often required. Factory method of HT routing works very well. BTW. if you do go to upgrade the coil. The Allstar 81230 is a good choice. Modern E-Core that is has a lot more spark energy than the older canister coils. Exact same specs at the Crane LX91 . But the LX91's are getting harder and harder to find. At least the OEM Crane models. Both will work with CDI or Inductive ignition. Summit, Jegs and other places carry the Allst 81230. Thank you. I had considered the possibility of crossfire when I was selecting the wires but not sure if I've experienced it yet. I daily drove the car for the past 2 years with no issues but it was only with triple sidedraft carbs. I suppose I could always build another set of wires over the valvecover as I still have the tools from the last couple of sets I put together including the one on the car currently. The coil is actually a MSD 8222 solid state unit. I had the red oil filled blaster type coil which I gave to my friend a couple of years ago I think the specs were fairly similar but I'll take a look again tonight and the part numbers you referenced. The ignition system is the 123 Ignition BT distributor running off a MSD 6AL Digital and the MSD 8222. I've never had any issues with this setup over the last couple of years but haven't run it yet with forced induction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dat73z Posted October 11, 2018 Author Share Posted October 11, 2018 (edited) Some quick project updates: The compressor side looks to work the best with the outlet facing about parallel to the ground. This leaves a lot of room for charge piping I hope. Clearances are tight but have enough information on measurements to order a wastegate actuator now and confirmed the measurements with a distributor so now another couple day wait for more components to come in. Although I enjoy the process, I wish I had a warehouse of everything so I could just test fit parts instead of measuring every detail and piecing together/fabricating everything to fit. The build goes on... Edit: Specific to the triple blowthrough setup on the HKS Version 2 Surge tank- you can see why I had to drill out the carburetors in these pictures with the hardware removed. I've checked a couple of carbs (Weber DCOE 40, Mukini 44 PHH Type 4, OER 47- the current carbs) and none of them have the appropriate spacing for the HKS Version 2 surge tank. So you need to drill out the front and rear mounting points to make everything fit. I've personally seen another set of Mikuni 44PHH drilled out for this setup as well with most of the drilling done at the inlet where the trumpets used to be. I tried to balance the drilling between the front and rear to leave enough material on both ends to seal appropriately. Edited October 12, 2018 by Dat73z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dat73z Posted October 13, 2018 Author Share Posted October 13, 2018 (edited) Pre weekend update: Did a test fit of the linkage assembly. It is apparent that I will need to use shorter turnbuckle? arms, but overall everything works well and operation is smooth. Just used some stuff I had around in the parts bin and some I imported from Japan and a McMaster-Carr hardened stainless 10mm rod to complete the setup. The Japanese setups are interesting in that the linkage rods I've dealt with so far for Z setups at least (Kameari, OER/SK, Mikuni) are all 10mm (~3/8 being the largest "typical" US size for the couple of manifolds I've worked on). Most US items are this smaller diameter or even smaller which makes finding Japanese components stateside difficult. In the earlier pictures you can see I ended up pressing in and reaming out some 10mm oilite bushings for the linkage rod rather than running the teflon bushings. Also test fit the sandwich plate for the oil cooler. Either way, still just typical triple setup/parts so far so nothing crazy just yet which is good. I'll start fabricating the bracketry for the throttle cable setup which is already installed from my last triple setup this weekend. I'm going to attempt to streamline it all and run the shortest non-binding cable setup I can. Wastegate and more components comes in tomorrow and AN fittings/hose for coolant and fuel next week. Just a long wait now for parts to slowly trickle in. Edited October 13, 2018 by Dat73z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted October 13, 2018 Share Posted October 13, 2018 Wow- great project. That shorty manifold is a bitch to mount isn’t it? I remember having to get the studs just right. Might consider SS heat shield instead of aluminum. Does a better job . So the HKS tank - carb mounting holes didn’t line up? I thought this set up was for Mikuni 40’s originally, or at least all Mikunis would line up. Glad to see you went with programmable ignition, you might save a motor. So this is a stock 2.4? I really wanted to try this project myself , but didn’t think my tuning skills were up to it. I’m not sure many have pulled this off successfully. I wanted to pressurize my CAI, but went EFI GOOD LUCK! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dat73z Posted October 13, 2018 Author Share Posted October 13, 2018 (edited) 4 hours ago, madkaw said: Wow- great project. That shorty manifold is a bitch to mount isn’t it? I remember having to get the studs just right. Might consider SS heat shield instead of aluminum. Does a better job . So the HKS tank - carb mounting holes didn’t line up? I thought this set up was for Mikuni 40’s originally, or at least all Mikunis would line up. Glad to see you went with programmable ignition, you might save a motor. So this is a stock 2.4? I really wanted to try this project myself , but didn’t think my tuning skills were up to it. I’m not sure many have pulled this off successfully. I wanted to pressurize my CAI, but went EFI GOOD LUCK! Thank you. Your airbox looks great! Really original use of a spare valve cover 😉. Yeah the shorty manifold is a bear to install and the studs must be the perfect length. I've had to pull and install it a couple times now to get everything to fit so I'm getting pretty good at it. Good call on the heat shield material. I have been thinking this over and I'm partly considering just sending all of the hot side components to ATP for their inconel treatment. The HKS carb mounting is rather curious. The holes do not line up with 44s. My friend also just picked up a set of Mikuni 40 type 4's I'll try in a couple of days, but I was under the impression the casting between the 40 and the 44 were the same. Maybe the Type 1 Surge Tanks and SK units have it better. The motor is the #'s matching block which has been bored out and fitted with low compression pistons. I have no idea what it is, but the previous owner ran it on drawthrough turbo in the 80's and it was supposedly fast. The kit was in the trunk when I bought the car and the RAYJAY turbo was about the size of my head if that's any indication. Much longer term once I'm done lighting money on fire here I have a L28 block sonic tested good for a massive overbore in my garage along with a knife edged stroker crank from my friend Eric. Eric, if you're reading this I lost your contact- thanks again man and come over to hang out sometime. Edited October 13, 2018 by Dat73z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dat73z Posted October 13, 2018 Author Share Posted October 13, 2018 Weekend update: Test fit the wastegate actuator. It's a Tial MVI 2.5 unit with a 10lb spring. Tight fit and I'll need to fine tune the angle a bit more, but it looks it it will work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dat73z Posted October 14, 2018 Author Share Posted October 14, 2018 2nd Weekend Update: Had some time this morning before the wife and I do our Sunday thing. Pulled the gas tank out from storage and started cleaning/buttoning everything up. I feel bad that this thing has been covered in dust for so long. I'm going to set up the fittings for 6AN feed and 8AN return. It is a MONZTER copy gas tank so service plate up top, ATL blackbox with the Walbro 255 inside, modified OEM fuel level sender. Once the tank is bolted up I'll pull the trans and delete the old fuel lines and that one evap line which runs to the driver's side frame rail. I need to measure out how much stainless line to order. I am going to assume bending 6AN and 8AN stainless will be a bear, but it needs to get done. Huge shout out to Ivan @ Vintage Spirit Garage over in Albany (no affiliation). I don't have the means in my garage to fab this up so I called around a bunch of local race / custom fab shops in the bay area and nobody wanted to take on this project. I just dropped off the parts and the work was done to a high standard and in a timely fashion. You can check out their Instagram page here: https://www.instagram.com/vintagespiritgarage/?hl=en Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dat73z Posted October 14, 2018 Author Share Posted October 14, 2018 A question for the community: I believe the turbo studs are M10 x 1.5 and some rough measurements show the studs will need to be ~50-55mm long due to the 1/2" thick stainless flange I'm using to clearance the T40E/T3 from the exhaust manifold. Is anyone aware of a vendor/supplier that sells these studs in Inconel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dat73z Posted October 15, 2018 Author Share Posted October 15, 2018 Had a couple mins tonight and started mounting a new oil spray bar I had for a long time. My old one was held together by silicone. Surprised the valvetrain looks so great- that Walmart special Rotella T6 puts in work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted October 15, 2018 Share Posted October 15, 2018 I would thorough test that spray bar with oil pressure. My experience was the squirt holes were misaligned . Just drive the oil pump with a drill and watch to make sure oil is going where you want . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dat73z Posted October 15, 2018 Author Share Posted October 15, 2018 3 hours ago, madkaw said: I would thorough test that spray bar with oil pressure. My experience was the squirt holes were misaligned . Just drive the oil pump with a drill and watch to make sure oil is going where you want . Thanks madkaw, who did you get your spray bar from? I think I got this from Brian at ZCC years ago. Good call on testing the spray pattern first. I will do that once I have the rest of the oiling system buttoned up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scartail Posted October 15, 2018 Share Posted October 15, 2018 (edited) On 10/10/2018 at 9:10 PM, Dat73z said: Mid week update: Parts have been slowly trickling in. Started to mock up the oil and coolant lines and just received the turbo. It's a ball bearing T3/T40E 50 trim/63 AR so not much size difference from the factory T3 but it should meet my power goals easily. I'll use the factory T3 to figure out the relative orientation and true up the clocking on the car. So far so good. Nice looking project. What are your power goals? Edited October 15, 2018 by scartail Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dat73z Posted October 15, 2018 Author Share Posted October 15, 2018 Thanks. Ultimately I'd like to get somewhere around 3-400+ whp. I don't think that will happen with this motor (I'm thinking 2-300+) so maybe a couple of years down the line I'll build the stroker on the side. This round is focusing on getting everything fabricated so I can put this setup on any L-series and running well enough to daily drive again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted October 16, 2018 Share Posted October 16, 2018 21 hours ago, Dat73z said: Thanks madkaw, who did you get your spray bar from? I think I got this from Brian at ZCC years ago. Good call on testing the spray pattern first. I will do that once I have the rest of the oiling system buttoned up. I don’t remember , but it was very pricey and the holes didn’t hit the lash pads very well. I have a couple extra spray bars if you run into trouble. I do t use them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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