Jump to content
HybridZ

1971 240z ITB install


DuffyMahoney

Recommended Posts

Wow! That first one will make a nice looking bookend! I bet the aluminum plate (6061-T6?) wasn't cheap. Seems like they would have started with cheaper material for the first article. Regardless, it'll be a very nice piece when done!

Edited by rossman
Link to comment
Share on other sites

36 minutes ago, rossman said:

Wow! That first one will make a nice looking bookend! I bet the aluminum plate (6061-T6?) wasn't cheap. Seems like they would have started with cheaper material for the first article. Regardless, it'll be a very nice piece when done!

China is cutting this, they picked the material.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ahhh, I thought you were programming and maching it, I was going to say nice work, not an easy part to program.  Are you paying them based off 1 part?  I assume the time to program and tool is a bigger expense than machine time?

 

I'm in the same boat, I wish I could find a nice set-up for my NA car but nothing makes me happy.  I might have to make one myself as well.

Edited by MONZTER
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, MONZTER said:

Ahhh, I thought you were programming and maching it, I was going to say nice work, not an easy part to program.  Are you paying them based off 1 part?  I assume the time to program and tool is a bigger expense than machine time?

 

I'm in the same boat, I wish I could find a nice set-up for my NA car but nothing makes me happy.  I might have to make one myself as well.

1 or 5, they are the same price. Slightly less if I buy like 10-20, but not a ton. Since it's all 5 axis time.  

 

If it works well, I may try and have it cast.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 hours ago, MONZTER said:

Ahhh, I thought you were programming and maching it, I was going to say nice work, not an easy part to program.  Are you paying them based off 1 part?  I assume the time to program and tool is a bigger expense than machine time?

 

I'm in the same boat, I wish I could find a nice set-up for my NA car but nothing makes me happy.  I might have to make one myself as well.

MONZTER intake part 2: NA Bugaloo!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
29 minutes ago, calZ said:

Did you work directly with a machine shop over there or did you go through a service like Xometry or PCBWay? 

Direct, I quote 3 machine shops in china, 2 in the US and 1 in India.  

 

PCBway is nice, but normally more money then direct.  The interface is much much easier.  Currently I have to wire money everytime, which is a pain.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, that makes sense. The middle man has to take his cut. I've had a few small things made for different projects and it always baffles me how cheaply I can get things. I ordered a small part recently, and it was ~$50 shipped to my house via air mail. Someone has to take the order, someone else has to machine it, another person has to package it, and then all the people it takes to get it to my step from China, yet all of them get paid somehow. 

Edited by calZ
Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 minutes ago, calZ said:

Yeah, that makes sense. The middle man has to take his cut. I've had a few small things made for different projects and it always baffles me how cheaply I can get things. I ordered a small part recently, and it was ~$50 shipped to my house via air mail. Someone has to take the order, someone else has to machine it, another person has to package it, and then all the people it takes to get it to my step from China, yet all of them get paid somehow. 

I would not say this was a cheap intake to make:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The quality looks great, so good way to do it. The cost of materials in the USA, particularly in California, makes it uncompetitive even compared to other parts of the country. It's likely that the material costs alone here are as high as what you paid for the finished part.  Its why I just make parts for myself anymore.  I have to justify the time and cost with love of doing it as a hobby

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 minutes ago, MONZTER said:

The quality looks great, so good way to do it. The cost of materials in the USA, particularly in California, makes it uncompetitive even compared to other parts of the country. It's likely that the material costs alone here are as high as what you paid for the finished part.  Its why I just make parts for myself anymore.  I have to justify the time and cost with love of doing it as a hobby

 

It's not a stupid expensive chunk of aluminum, setups and cut time is what makes it expensive in the US.  China doesn't seem to charge setup fees.  

Edited by DuffyMahoney
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well I got my cnc intake! Honestly surface finish isn’t what I was hoping for. But will be nice with some effort. I think it’s almost too much bling. I might go satin glass bead on the intake. It has pretty heavy machine marks
Balance bar bolted on exactly as I planned, with 6mm banjos. The injector angle looks spot on as well.
Pretty happy with it overall. Next rods need to be shortened and I need to figure out a progressive throttle location on the overhead bar and a cable mount location. Then moving the ecu temp sensor.
 
 

421756449_10160272688598985_3786852461983293630_n.jpg

421747207_10160272688588985_8278640912784096754_n.jpg

417090677_879495733957269_3028771160878102382_n.jpg

421668293_10160272688578985_7052490040831892398_n.jpg

421751017_10160272688613985_4374941914455870197_n.jpg

423514290_10160272688523985_1845576119856007368_n.jpg

423582217_10160272685398985_1768421570709083871_n.jpg

Edited by DuffyMahoney
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, MONZTER said:

Looking good to me, lets see some detail shots of the machining that you are not happy with.  Are you going to bench it down?   Whats your plan for filters?

 

I would send the intake off to a vibratory polisher, then glass bead it heavily, then vapor hone it.  

 

No filters for now, but eventually I will get that figured out. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In the past when I would bench and smooth out casting lines in parts you would always see the smooth ground areas in contrast to the original casting finish.  What I would do is blast it with a heavy 36 grit aluminum oxide to add even texture on the entire part, then Vapor hone it to brighten it up.  It looks great, almost as if it were originally cast like that.  So something to consider vs just glass bead if you decide to smooth out any of the maching marks and go with a more classic cast look.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...