Ben280 Posted September 7, 2019 Share Posted September 7, 2019 Drill and tap the intake runners!!! I'm assuming the intakes you are all using don't have bosses already, but that's where you should be drawing vac from if you don't have dedicated ports. The kit for the Jenvey ITB's from Datsun Spirit have these ports built into the manifold. Boogering up the ITB bodies are not the way to do this, the OER piece tioga mentioned is a nice way to add the port as well if you don't want to mess with drilling and tapping the intake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyMahoney Posted September 7, 2019 Author Share Posted September 7, 2019 I re tappped my intake. I’m not going to mess with the jenvys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyMahoney Posted September 9, 2019 Author Share Posted September 9, 2019 Super happy with how the ITBs look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyMahoney Posted September 9, 2019 Author Share Posted September 9, 2019 Made a tiny stainless bracket for my air temp sensor. I cut it a little close. But it works great Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyMahoney Posted September 9, 2019 Author Share Posted September 9, 2019 I have a 100 micron pre and 10 post filter. I made some mounts for them. But I’m having issues fitting both. I might just got cheap clear 100 micron inline pre filter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tioga Posted September 9, 2019 Share Posted September 9, 2019 9 minutes ago, DuffyMahoney said: You could always switch from the vintage Sk manifold to a vintage FET and get the vacuum manifold built in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyMahoney Posted September 9, 2019 Author Share Posted September 9, 2019 I own a vintage FET. It’s setup for 40 carbs. I love my SK. I will figure it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tioga Posted September 9, 2019 Share Posted September 9, 2019 Looks like you may be running the STI diff. You don’t happen to have a STI r180 pinion flange you want to sell do you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyMahoney Posted September 9, 2019 Author Share Posted September 9, 2019 (edited) I have a K r180 with a osgiken LSD and 4.11. So no Subaru parts:) Edited September 9, 2019 by DuffyMahoney Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tioga Posted September 9, 2019 Share Posted September 9, 2019 I assume that is supposed to be NO Subaru parts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyMahoney Posted September 9, 2019 Author Share Posted September 9, 2019 1 minute ago, tioga said: I assume that is supposed to be NO Subaru parts Yes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted September 9, 2019 Share Posted September 9, 2019 On 9/7/2019 at 12:11 AM, DuffyMahoney said: I asked some more questions. Here is the original email. Maybe IAC can handle the idle and allow me vacuum? This looks like a copy of the original SK "Air Governor" setup I installed back in 1983 with the SK Analog Fuel Computer! Good to see nothing changes! The SK's wouldn't idle at all when you closed the throttle plates and it was a very fine method indeed to get the plates open to allow 950 rpm idle... Ended up closing them altogether anyway and used the ports in the Mikuni Manifold as the idle air bypass port at idle through an 82/83 Idle Speed Control Screw refit for 1/4" tubing that went from the Surge Tank to the Manifold. One screw to set on the idle speed, and a simple solenoid bypass line from a Suzuki or Toyota EGR valve that allowed it to idle up when cold (like 1700)... That was on some thermal switch we found that closed electrically and opened the bypass below 160F... All the talk here about high idle on Jenvys corresponde to what I've seen on them as well--the bypass screws leak. You almost have to gob RTV over the jam nut and adjustment screw to make them hold the speed, and not introduce tramp air! Somewhat disappointing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tioga Posted September 9, 2019 Share Posted September 9, 2019 Hi Tony, I don’t think that is what is happening. The original air bleed screw is longer with a taper that seats in the bottom if the bore to block the correction air port in the throat of the body. That is how the bleed screw works to balance flow. The opening to the front side of the butterfly is unrestricted and the taper at the bottom regulates the flow. Just like a mixture screw. The problem is the air ports jenvey sells just have a short threaded section that threads into the top of the body and does nothing to block the passages in the body that allow adjustments of air flow thus you have full air flow. That is why I suggested you would need to block the port in the throat of the body on the air filter side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyMahoney Posted September 14, 2019 Author Share Posted September 14, 2019 I got my Jeep cas back from the machine shop. It’s nice and tight on the keyed shaft. Should work perfectly. I used the original dizzy collar as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyMahoney Posted September 14, 2019 Author Share Posted September 14, 2019 Vac line is done. I am happy with the looks. I asked the company to make me a nicer booster fitting. We shall see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyMahoney Posted September 14, 2019 Author Share Posted September 14, 2019 I got my platinum racing r35 harness installed on my r35 coils. Pretty happy with how it looks. I might shorten the last 3 wires an 1/8th of an inch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tioga Posted September 14, 2019 Share Posted September 14, 2019 It doesn’t look like the coils are on the plugs far enough. Especially 4,5,6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyMahoney Posted September 14, 2019 Author Share Posted September 14, 2019 They are clicked on. I switched how they are routed and I like it better. I will leave it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyMahoney Posted September 15, 2019 Author Share Posted September 15, 2019 Efi Fuel system is in and wired. Happy with how it turned out. ITB here i come. All pushlock. I might switch some of it out to 5/16 from -6 braided. The braided seems a little large and out of place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyMahoney Posted September 16, 2019 Author Share Posted September 16, 2019 Swapped it out to 5/16. Much happier with the look. Also finished the billet hose clamps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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