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HybridZ

IMSA GTU vintage racer build


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On 8/18/2024 at 10:22 PM, Exposed said:

great job on the 3d print, hows the fitment? Did you scan an existing panel or do everything from dimensions?

I measured and guessed at the profile so it's not exact but looks pretty good. Still printing and adjusting prototypes but almost there on perfect fit. My plan is to make a panel that goes all the way across in 4 pieces. Will also paint the inside feature with chrome paint.

Edited by clarkspeed
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Ok, tell of the tape. The Emporor has no clothes.  Never mind the cross weights and I had the pads at wrong locations and 2 flat tires. But little disappointed at the final number. Really hoping to be under 2k. Got plenty of ideas to put on a diet, but didn't want to think about that yet. Good thing is I am really close to a 50/50 F/R and L/R. But that is without my weight in there. Still have a few things to add and subtract but will only get a little heavier.

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  • 10 months later...

I'm back! Sorry for the long delay on posts, family, work, and travel have sucked up time along with losing a laptop that had a large number of photos.  I have restored most of the photos now and will try to catch back up. Polycarbonate windshield ready to mount, firewall extensions, and rear fender liner.

 

 

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Posted (edited)

My first prototype of a printed taillight surround and final version.  I printed in 3 pieces then laid fiberglass over the back to stiffen them and bond together in 1 piece.

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Edited by clarkspeed
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  • 2 weeks later...

I am posting this to celebrate my triumph!  After full assembly of engine and tranny I could not get the clutch to release. Quartermaster 7.25 v-drive attached to L6 flywheel from TTV Racing. Quatermaster 710 series TO bearing. Chevy clutch disks to mate with 4sp Jericho. QM Button clutches require precise gap from fingers to TO bearing of .120-.150 so I removed tranny multiple times and reset the gap with shims. Everytime I measured gap I got a different measurement. The clutch slipped a little with pedal in but required a breaker bar to rotate driveshaft. Remove tranny, reset gap, reinstall, bleed clutch, check release. After maybe 8 times I stopped and thought about it. Then read directions for the 10th time. Suddenly it stuck out, make sure clutch disk does not interfere with flywheel bolts. I've seen this before. Years ago I ran a similar set up with the head ground down on OEM flywheel bolts. This time I am using ARP flywheel bolts for a RB26. They are 12pt bolt heads already kind of thin, so I didnt consider they could interfere. Well I was wrong. So I ground maybe 0.020" off the head and reinstalled. 

 

In the pic you can see marks where the clutch rivet went across the bolts and 3 bolts I have already ground down.

 

On the positive side, I am very efficient R&R the tranny now. Maybe 90min total. And it pops into the pilot bearing like a glove. 

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On a friend's race car he has two things that help to speed up the removal of the transmission.  A dry break on the clutch line and the second is the over the top of the bellhousing exhaust.  Having the exhaust out of the way when the car is still warm helps a lot if you need to remove the transmission for gear changes.

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