How much did everyone spend on their V8 Conversion?

[grumpyvette]

having helped converted several 240/260/280 (Z) cars in the past to a V8 and matching drive train, new seats and interior, paint, rear diff etc. Id say your looking at a MINIMUM of $7000 to get it correctly done and with a newly rebuilt engine, to easily over $20,000, while that sounds expensive, if you do do it correctly youll have a car that rivals $30,000 cars

[BRAAP]

When I did my first V-8 conversion, it was on a major budget. Wife was a nursing student, we raising 2 children, I was working at a reputable engine shop here in Portland at the time as an engine builder/machinist at the time. (We have since been happily married for 17 years, now have 3 children and you could say the Z car theme is going REAL strong, “Rusch Motor Sports”, I’ll update at a later time). Building my Chev 350 came relatively inexpensive as I built/machined the entire engine myself and it was nothing more than your typical garden variety MILD Chev 350. It idled with NO lope at 750 RPM, was done making power at 5500 RPM. For the most part the bottom end was bone stock with cast Silvolite pistons, etc. other than I did install Pioneer rod bolts and a Milodon windage tray. Cam was a “High Tech” 216/228 @ .050” 468/480 on 112 LC, Edelbrock performer intake, a used Holley 650 double pumper for only $50 that required NO tuning, just bolted it on and drove it. Exhaust was Hooker shorty headers, dual 2 ½” exhaust. The heads is where I spent my time. I found a set of 041 castings, my boss at the time donated a set of 1.94” 1.50” stainless valves, I added a 30 degree back cut to the valves, performed my own 5 angle grind, (I don’t “grind” seats, I cut them with Sunnen VSC seat cutters), did all my own port work, just blended in the pockets, and spent the rest of my efforts in the chambers unshrouding the valves as much as I dared, (being as they were the small valves, I already had a good start). The most expensive part of my conversion was the World Class T-5 out of a ’91 Firebird Trans Am, set me back $1500 back in ’97.

When all was said and done, I put over 15,000 miles on this combo and the car ran consistent 12.3 @ 113 MPH at the drag strip on cheesy 195 60 HR 14” tires with the chassis set up for Solo II. Not bad for no more than $4200 for the conversion, (does not include the car or chassis work, just the V-8 swap including the trans and driveline.)

Of course, I wouldn’t think of duplicating those efforts on that budget again. I am currently building yet another V-8 Z that will eclipse my first V-8 Z in budget AND it better eclipse it in performance.

[1 tuff z]

i'm estimating my ls1 swap will run somewhere around $4000 when i'm finished. i've built in time for dyno tuning, some miscellaneous labor which i can't do and will pay for. not included is the z, which i've been driving for years. and before you say, no way-keep in mind that i located a totalled trans am, bought the whole car and [thanks ebay!] sold everything-including the stripped and naked shell and got the engine/tranny/computer for next to nothing. i DID NOT include any labor in the above number. the hours, as many of you know are countless but i love doing it.

 

i also sold many of the 6 cylinder parts i pulled off the car [eng, trans, etc] to help offset the cost. once complete, i'll post a list of what i spent.

[280Z28]

I love how all of the running ones are so much more expensive than the non running "But I'm sure/I think/probably/plan to have mine done for only xxxx". This really proves the saying that it'll cost twice plus some what you think it will.

 

I have 18,000 miles on my V8 swap, and crossed $16+K earlier this fall (including what I paid for the car). That doesn't include the amount of money the previous owner put into it. When I bought for $8K it was already converted to a 350 TPI/T56 and already had G-nose/zg flares and was painted and had panasports, rear battery... it goes on.

[280zwitha383]

I love how all of the running ones are so much more expensive than the non running "But I'm sure/I think/probably/plan to have mine done for only xxxx". This really proves the saying that it'll cost twice plus some what you think it will.

 

I have 18' date='000 miles on my V8 swap, and crossed $16+K earlier this fall (including what I paid for the car). That doesn't include the amount of money the previous owner put into it. When I bought for $8K it was [i']already converted[/i] to a 350 TPI/T56 and already had G-nose/zg flares and was painted and had panasports, rear battery... it goes on.

 

HOLY CRAP!!!

[1 tuff z]

perhaps i should have waited until my z is running...

 

however, my numbers are accurate although they do not include what i've put into my car since purchase in october 1984. 6 pt cage, fully modified suspension, recaro seats, decent sound system, paint, bodywork, air dam, spoiler, wheels, brakes, coilovers, lsd, it goes on. i'm guessing i have around [not including labor] $20 into my car-BEFORE starting my swap. again, i was very fortunate that my ls1/t56 cost was nearly $0-only because i was able to sell all the parts from the 2001 trans am 'donor' car.

[Guest TheHappyHeathen]

I'm down here in SoCal, and if makes you feel any better it's no cheaper. I am still engine hunting because I'm a perfectionist. I am looking at about 3 grand too. I will keep an eye open for any bargains.

[240ZR]

Check sig... 400 horse RWHP.......

[280Z28]

Check sig... 400 horse RWHP.......

 

You paid $3500 for a T5 tranny? Maybe I misread things.

 

Is the car on the road yet? It sounds sweet.

[kraymond]

1 Tuff Z did you shop for a donor car or just get lucky and have a friend wreck one for you. I thought about taking out a want ad for a wrecked camaro/ta to see if could get lucky.

[240ZR]

You paid $3500 for a T5 tranny? Maybe I misread things.

 

Is the car on the road yet? It sounds sweet.

 

One piece larger diameter 9310 alloy shaft

Larger 3-4 hub and spline

6 lug dog ring

Roller bearing 5th gear

Replaceable dog rings on 2nd , 3rd, and maindrive

Bronze Forks on 1-2 and 3-4

Tapered needle pilot

Bigger modular countergear

26 spline 1.125" input shaft

Rear billet u-joint NASCAR style yoke

Magnesium Tail Housing

Wider and stronger 9310 alloy gears

All custom crap pain in the *** and too much work and money into it, yea its "on" the road but there is a problem with Ground clearance after putting 3" exhaust on it, so right now it sits in the drive way untill i figure out what i am going to do (Ovals, Bigger Rims, Taller/stiffer springs, Spring seats, etc....)

[1 tuff z]

kraymond, i found a complete car on ebay. fortunately it never hit the reserve [twice] and i was able to call the seller and make a deal. paid $5900 for the car-delivered from iowa to my home in rochester, ny. prior to purchase i checked ebay and started pricing all the parts the f-body guys were buying and made the guy an offer. got real lucky in that i sold $5770 of parts, leaving me with a 20,044 mile 2001 ls1 and t56 trans, computer, fans & some other parts i kept for $-well, you can do the math. you could always bribe someone who has an f-body to go out and total it-LOL. i think the want ad might work. i also tried to go to an insurance auction to bid on a totalled car, but without the proper credentials they won't even talk to you. if you know someone in the business, that avenue may work. also, keep checking ebay, classifieds, etc.

[Mikelly]

Guys, Every Story is different. It all boils down to how good you are at shopping for deals, how good a horse trader you are, how much of the work you can do yourself, and how much time you are willing to invest.

 

If you want it in 30 days, break out the plastic and checkbook. If you have time to spend and can do the work yourself, then it'll be cheaper. However, If you want a motor to last for many years, you might be better off having one custom built to your specs with the best of the best.

 

Every story is unique to its owner, as is every hybridZ.

Mike

[flibuoy]

Thanks everyone for the sales pitch for my 260Z project in classified section!

John

[bjhines]

I spent $5K on a track prepped 240Z with a modified L24 drivetrain... It amazes me how many new and expensive cars it will overtake... It also gets several events out of a set of slicks.. I get multiple events out of brake pads as well... Come to think...I get SEASONS out of rotors and drums...

 

I admit... The ole 1972 pancakes and drums are crappy... But the thing stops just fine except at CMP in Kershaw SC...

 

I see guys in Corvettes burning up consumables to the tune of $500 a DAY!!!...AND I can catch them repeatedly... The drivers always say they were conserving Tires/Brakes for the time trials.. Big cars EAT BRAKES and TIRES...there is a lot to be said for a small, lightweight sports car with a lot of power... you can drive the hell out of it all day long and still go home with treads and brakes.

 

I am currently building another Hybrid track Z.. I have 5K invested and it still hasn't really gotten off the ground...

I expect it will be one of the fastest cars at open events... and it will still be relatively easy on consumables.

 

The cheapest car I have ever run was a 1985 Toyota MR2.... The engine had 100K miles on it when I got it.... It ran like a scalded dog and I could not kill it... I even threw the timing belt at high RPM and it survived completely unharmed... I had it fixed before the next day... The Toyota was light.. and it was cheap to run... But I did not care for the forward seating position or the weight balance.... It did not feel as planted as the Z does with similar suspension mods... worst of all... the Toyota had no room for a bigger engine.

[Corzette]

i have a car that eats hondas and craps out mustangs all day long

 

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!! Good one....

 

Terry

[Phantom]

 

All custom crap pain in the *** and too much work and money into it' date=' yea its "on" the road but there is a problem with Ground clearance after putting 3" exhaust on it, so right now it sits in the drive way untill i figure out what i am going to do (Ovals, Bigger Rims, Taller/stiffer springs, Spring seats, etc....)[/font']

 

Not to pick on you 240ZR but there should be a lesson here for everone on this board. Here is a nice car that has a lot of cash and sweat equity in it and it's not streetable. How many "projects" are just sitting out there because someone walked themselves into a corner with the modifications? Anyone building a hybrid should spend some time playing chess before they even start. It's important to not just be able to plan to the next level but think three or four or more beyond that to ensure the current plan won't create problems in the future and be the source of yet another dreaded "do-over".

The exhaust is a perfect example of that. A large diameter combined with a lowered car becomes a "track only" vehicle. My car is stock height and, at one time, I was considering a single 3 1/2" exhaust for it. One quick round of clearance calculations and I ended up with dual 2 1/2" with a "clearance tube" on the passenger side where it passed under the differential support that has an oval cut-out on the drivers side. It also was "sectioned" so that it could be easily removed to access the starter on the passenger side. Even with that I've scraped it a couple times. It's not just putting the car together. As difficult as that may be the real chore is to put it together in a way that it satisfies your original requirements and is livable from a driving and maintenance stand point.

Remember - the goal is to get it all together and drive it long enough to actually have to do some maintenance on it in the future.

[1 tuff z]

ok guys, went to the dyno and don't anticipate any other extra costs at this point so i can consider that my swap is about complete. before any naysayers get busy picking apart my list below keep this in mind. i have NOT included any of my own labor [probably in excess of $6k if i had to shell it out] and was fortunate/lucky/blessed that i was able to sell off other parts-both from my donor car and the supercharged L28 i pulled from my z. so, with that disclaimer written, here i now drop my financial pants for the hybridz world to see! also, as i've said before-i would have NEVER would have been able to do this without my hybridz.org!!!!!!!!!! THANK YOU ALL!!

 

Item description expense

hp ls1/ls6 book [41] & slp 160 thermostat [55] -96

custom driveshaft [camaro & z ds's], camaro driveshaft, kirbin shifter [160] -273

clutch from new era [55], tilton clutch mstr [67], surface stock flywheel [22] -149

fluids-oil, antifreeze, trans fluid, brake fluid, oil filter -60

sanderson 1.75" headers [370, swain thermal barrier coat 175], gaskets [15] -560

john's cars eng & xmsn mounts -430

cruise control! -200

port/polish throttle body [75], spark plugs & wires [75]-new era -150

fuel press reg [162], fpr gauge [15], walbro pump [154] -316

exhaust components [545] tubing, welding/fab [470] -1015

fab pcm bkt, weld an fittings to tank, weld an fitting to clutch slave -120

wizard cooling custom radiator, fan brackets, upper hard hose, catch can [25] -475

autometer pro comp gauges $495, $100 adapt to dash & fitting adaptors -630

speartech harness [777], wiring gauges/harness & turn sig/hi bm pod [405] -1022

ls1 eng, pcm, t56 trans & rad fans [excluding my labor of love to strip donor] -144

intake components-elbows, filter, etc-jtr & new era parts, lokar dipstick [50] -225

engine bay paint/brake booster, pwderct gas tank & trans crossmember [150] -155

flaring tool, wilwood prop valve, brake line & tee, more adaptors & flex line -321

an fittings, adaptors, ss line, etc-for brake line relocation -73

fuel line & fittings, fuel filter, stainless teflon line, clutch line -493

dyno / computer tuning 6.8.06 -200

 

supercharger, intake, holley projection and related components 1800

isky cam/components [178] & arp head studs [55]-ebay 233

z fan, radiator, oil cooler-cardona 200

cad plated dipstick & oil pan plug & alternator brackets, oil pan bolts-ebay 32

hks metal head gasket [59], autometer boost gauge [19]-ebay 78

p90 cylinder head, turbo adj oil pump, turbo pistons & rods-ebay 257

stainless steel valve cover bolt set, z shifter with tt knob-ebay 96

magnecor plug wires, jacobs ultra coil, allison elec ign & distributor-ebay 118

billet z parts-water pulley, fuel & cam plates-ebay 227

z tilton master cylinders, custom pedal box, balance bar & cable, custom pedals 203

zx tranny, centerforce df clutch, header & exh-fox 400

total expense -3367

 

this list includes items sold that were pulled from car for swap

[tweakinZs]

Ok I read alot of these and it sounds like noone is quite doin what I am lookin at doing. Question: Saying that I had a fab shop to take care of any weldind or fabricating, and I already have a suitable mild carburated small block. What else has to be done to make it driveable. Can I use the Z rear end in it, I know drive shaft will have to be replaced, but assuming Im only putting out about 300-340HP would it be safe to use the stock Z differential?? Would the stock radiator move enough water, how will going from F.I. 6 to a carb. V-8 affect the computer, Ect...

I dont want to use a whole lot of electranics on it. (elect. water pump, fuel pump, fans ect...) I wanna try to keep it as basic as possible. Switch panel and so forth. (also have someone to take care of switches and relays.) Im just wondering, All these corroded connectors and hoses are driveing me insane!!! I just want it gone.

 

thanks,

Mario

[Guest Mike]

Stopped at $9000 Australian full rebiuld of engine and t400 trans. although complete car rebiuld ie bare metal' date=' derust, new doorskins, bumper rebiuld and chrome, all interior panel rebiulds, new bonnet ( i think you call it hood ) R200 diff, lead fill, panel manufacture & paint and we are up to $22,000 Australian. But eveyone is busting my door down to see the finished product in 5 weeks time. Even Aust Street Machine Mag wants to do a cover shoot! Will end uop at $25,000 and broke can you lend me some cash for petrol ?

 

Bob & Anne Burgess[/quote']

 

What's "petrol"... sounds British:rolleyes: