big-phil Posted April 1, 2007 Share Posted April 1, 2007 What kind of plugs: whats the gap: How much boost are you running: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vashonz Posted April 2, 2007 Share Posted April 2, 2007 NKG BP7ES Gap is either .040" or .045" Boost is ~15psi Not a stock ignition system, I have SDS with the coilpacks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan280zt Posted April 2, 2007 Share Posted April 2, 2007 Ngk Bpr7es Gap is at 35 Msd 6al box, blaster 2 coil, and Magnecore 10mm race wires 20-21psi pump gas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett76Zt Posted April 2, 2007 Share Posted April 2, 2007 NGK BPR8es at .025" gap Running GM coilpacks and 26psi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big-phil Posted April 3, 2007 Author Share Posted April 3, 2007 some of those gaps seem big? I'm running NGK bpr7es-11 gapped at .025 and running 17lbs trying to run 20lbs but she keeps sputtering out? my gap was .028 but now .025 its running a little better but I still get a little sputter at high boost, if I lower the boost the sputter goes away. I'm going to get a new cap and rotor mine is kind of old, and that might also have a part in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m1ghtymaxXx Posted April 3, 2007 Share Posted April 3, 2007 Stock l28, i beleive there were ngk br6eix iridiums. Not gapped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twoeightythreez Posted April 3, 2007 Share Posted April 3, 2007 Here's the recommended plug for 1981 L28E and L28ET: NGK BPR6ES-11 gap .039-.042 in. BPR5 for hot and BPR7 for cold. This is per the Factory Service Manual. I'm sure once the boost goes up you gotta close that gap but that's the factory specs. Just for the hell of it here's the gap for the 1978 L28E. NGK B6ES for normal, B5ES for hot, B7ES for cold, gap is .025-.029 unless it's a ES-11 where it's .039-.043 also. (I have FSM for 77, 78, and 81 z cars) Mightymax, Even if they had iridium plugs in the 70's (i doubt it) there is no way an economy minded company like Datsun (thier slogan was "datsun saves") would have recommended such expensive plugs. I don't either, NGK copper core plugs are fine, it's not like it's hard to change 'em out on an L28..if it takes you 10 minutes on an L28 you're taking your time, so why bother with plugs that last 60-100K miles, when with a turbo you're gonna be changing them often anyway. Iridium sure seems like a waste of money to me. To answer phil's Q I'm running the BPR6ES-11's with a .039 gap. So far I've only been running 7psi of boost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twoeightythreez Posted April 3, 2007 Share Posted April 3, 2007 One thing I see in common between all of us is the use of NGK plugs. They really are the best plug you can buy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mario_82_ZXT Posted April 3, 2007 Share Posted April 3, 2007 Phil your coil might not be up to it's task, or maybe the ignitor is going out. I've heard lots of good things about the Z31 Turbo coil, maybe your friend that is helping you with the tuning has one in all the parts Zs. Mario Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtsnlvrs Posted April 3, 2007 Share Posted April 3, 2007 BP7es11...gapped .045, N/A Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtsnlvrs Posted April 3, 2007 Share Posted April 3, 2007 Oh and a note or rather quote I read off another car forum....hot rod stuff...unless it is a german car...run NGK..german cars need bosch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperPickle Posted April 3, 2007 Share Posted April 3, 2007 I'm running bosch on a stock 77 l28e, gapped at ~.043 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olie05 Posted April 3, 2007 Share Posted April 3, 2007 I noticed my idle smoothed out when I switched from bosch to NGK BPR7es Gapped at .035" N/A stock 77 ignition Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thumper Posted April 3, 2007 Share Posted April 3, 2007 Big-phil I would highly recommend a blaster 2 coil. It isn't necessary stronger than a stock coil but it takes alot less time to build up the charge, so at the higher rpms it can send the full 50,000 volts? to the cap and rotor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thumper Posted April 3, 2007 Share Posted April 3, 2007 some of those gaps seem big? I'm running NGK bpr7es-11 gapped at .025 and running 17lbs trying to run 20lbs but she keeps sputtering out? my gap was .028 but now .025 its running a little better but I still get a little sputter at high boost, if I lower the boost the sputter goes away. I'm going to get a new cap and rotor mine is kind of old, and that might also have a part in it. I just re-read your post and you need to get non-11's so bpr7es. The -11 means more extended gap. .040" or bigger. If you plan to run less than .040" then run the non-11. The difference is the electrode arm is shorter so it is perpendicular at .025" vs being angled down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big-phil Posted April 3, 2007 Author Share Posted April 3, 2007 I just bought a new coil because the car started sputtering. It a Mallory promaster E coil 51,000 volts. I had a blaster 2 on there that was a loner until I could get one, and it still sputterd. My wires are almost new. Accel 8mm. Where is my igniter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big-phil Posted April 3, 2007 Author Share Posted April 3, 2007 The difference is the electrode arm is shorter so it is perpendicular at .025" vs being angled down. I did notice that when I gaped the 11's the arm was at an angle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cody 82 ZXT Posted April 4, 2007 Share Posted April 4, 2007 I just re-read your post and you need to get non-11's so bpr7es. The -11 means more extended gap. .040" or bigger. If you plan to run less than .040" then run the non-11. The difference is the electrode arm is shorter so it is perpendicular at .025" vs being angled down. Good info from Thumper. I have also filed the electrode to almost point and it seeemed to help. Try it on a old set of plugs and see if makes any difference for you. If it helps then try it on a new set. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forrest Posted April 4, 2007 Share Posted April 4, 2007 I'm running NGK BPR7es (non-11), gapped at 0.032 @ 15psi. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z Turbo Posted April 4, 2007 Share Posted April 4, 2007 You can also try the non protruding plugs to see if they work better. I used to run them on my Z. BR7-ES Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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