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My official L31DETT RHD thread.


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Those are old pics in that thread, non of that holding/clamping mechanisim is going to be in the build. There are 4 long tie bolts going the length head, which is 17-4 PH stainless, for a high yeild strength. They are doweled together using hollow dowels, in ears that come off the thirds of the head. Ill post pics this weekend, of how it works. As for a tranny, I am going to be using a Z32 tranny, but IM going to see if I can get the ZXT T5 tranny to hold as long as I can. That weld is the finished product. Ive welded a "few" intakes, and never had a problem, so For now no grinding. NO time for that, LOL.

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Ok, so look here for updates every couple days As Ill just keep adding to this thread for my updates of my progress on the L31DETT RHD car. I got the intercooler installed, as well as the alluminum r

There is ALOT of cost in time that has gone into this project. Over 500 Man hours Between my father and I for sure. We have been doing LOTS of calculations, trial and error, quality controll, etc.

Those are old pics in that thread, non of that holding/clamping mechanisim is going to be in the build. There are 4 long tie bolts going the length head, which is 17-4 PH stainless, for a high yeild strength. They are doweled together using hollow dowels, in ears that come off the thirds of the head. Ill post pics this weekend, of how it works. As for a tranny, I am going to be using a Z32 tranny, but IM going to see if I can get the ZXT T5 tranny to hold as long as I can. That weld is the finished product. Ive welded a "few" intakes, and never had a problem, so For now no grinding. NO time for that, LOL.

 

but you basically are counting on the head(s) being bolted down to hold it all together, as much as everything else? the bolts would hold it from any possible lateral force, which would be minimal, the dowelz hold it straight, and the headbolts (as always) hold it down? And you simply put gaskets between the head sections?

 

I *really* like the look of this engine. You also said your camshafts were a secret.. are you being secretive just about the grind, or the vehicle from which your camshafts were sourced? as of the most recent info I had read, I thought I heard something like a standard RB cam would fit the saddles...??

 

Sorry to rehash it all, but threads on this subject are many and its difficult to find the "definitive" answer any way other than asking directly.

 

Beyond that, just simply.. wow...

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No Read my post again. FOUR 17-4 PH tie bolts go the length of the head that pass through 4 hollow dowells on each third to hold it in the latteral direction.

 

 

 

Beg pardon, I wasn't entirely clear.. thats what I meant by this...

the bolts would hold it from any possible lateral force,

 

"the bolts" being the lateral bolts, not the head bolts...

 

Cool, I just wanted to make sure I grokked your final solution. That was about what I had figured you were gonna be left with.

 

In the end, it seems absurdly simple.. more so than *I* ever thought it would actually be, anyhow. I just CANT GET OVER the fact that you've actually DONE this!!

 

thanks for the reply

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  • 3 weeks later...

Ok, Heres an update on 4-24-07.

 

Here I am boring the rods on the CNC for full floating pins using alluminum bronze bushings.

 

needssorting4-25-07_089-600x450.jpg

 

needssorting4-25-07_090-600x450.jpg

 

Here we are setting up the rear third of the cylinder head for dowell reaming.

 

needssorting4-25-07_103-600x450.jpg

 

Heres the block right after the block was done with machine work, and painted.

 

needssorting4-25-07_110-600x450.jpg

 

Here are the ARP Main Studs Installed, getting ready to check for bearing clearences.

 

needssorting4-25-07_114-600x450.jpg

 

Here is the crank inserted.

 

needssorting4-25-07_116-600x450.jpg

 

Here is the VO7 Crank, as if I would use anything else, HAHA.

 

needssorting4-25-07_117-600x450.jpg

 

Here is the rear third with the dowells installed for alignment.

 

needssorting4-25-07_121-600x450.jpg

 

Here are the TIE RODS that clamp the entire head together for the force of gasket surfaces to be clamped. The tie rods are made out of 17-4 Precipitating Hardening Stainless, for a high yeild strength.

 

needssorting4-25-07_126-600x450.jpg

 

And here the head is semi complete. Its Dowelled, Has the correct gaskets installed, and tie bolts.

 

needssorting4-25-07_130-600x450.jpg

 

Here is how we attached the LOWER tie bolts to some blocks that we precision dowelled and counter sunk screwed to the front third head.

 

needssorting4-25-07_132-600x450.jpg

 

This is the plate that bolts to the rear third head that the four 17-4 tie bolts go through and use as a clamping plate.

 

needssorting4-25-07_135-600x450.jpg

 

Here is how the UPPER tie bolts attach to the front third head, we threaded right into the thickest part of the casting.

 

needssorting4-25-07_139-600x450.jpg

 

Pic Of the tie bolts again.

 

needssorting4-25-07_141-600x450.jpg

 

Here are the FORGED piston pictures, after I lightened them ofcourse. They have a mass of 325 grams, thats WITH a 250 thousands of an inch thick domes.

 

needssorting4-25-07_143-600x450.jpg

 

needssorting4-25-07_144-600x450.jpg

 

Notice the strut that I left the center of the piston for strength.

 

needssorting4-25-07_145-600x450.jpg

 

25cc dish for a 8.25-1 Compression ratio, with KEEPING quench pads, VERY important.

 

needssorting4-25-07_148-600x450.jpg

 

.125" wall A-2 Tool Steel wrist pins, full floating.

 

needssorting4-25-07_149-600x450.jpg

 

Wrist Pin bushing installed with oil hole, on ONE side.

 

needssorting4-25-07_152-600x450.jpg

 

Crank Installed after maintaing a .0012" Oil Clearence.

 

needssorting4-25-07_158-600x450.jpg

 

Updated Timing Pictures, We decided not to use the geared sprocket idler, after some calculations, the forces would of been too high, so we modified some stock L series guides pretty heavily, and a few other tricks that are kept secret and here we are.

 

needssorting4-25-07_160-600x450.jpg

 

needssorting4-25-07_162-600x450.jpg

 

Final Test Fit of the block and head.

 

needssorting4-25-07_163-600x450.jpg

 

needssorting4-25-07_164-600x450.jpg

 

Pistons Installed.

 

needssorting4-25-07_168-600x450.jpg

 

And the paint on the car didnt look good at all, so we through a "quicky" paint job on it for the time being.

 

needssorting4-25-07_173-600x450.jpg

 

needssorting4-25-07_185-600x450.jpg

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if one was to surface grind each section of head would gaskets be needed you think? We do alot of surface grinding here at work for some of our plastics molds and in house parts occasionally placing an o-ring or two inside for extra sealing but its not common. With aluminums incredible expansion rate would a gasket still be needed, or even more so? peace.

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Is that car painted black? Midnight blue? Waitaminit, in 48 hours I'll see it anyway. I'll wait till then.

 

But I know who it is at 10PM Friday night if the phone rings and someone is asking me if I still have my towbar handy... LOL

 

See you at MSA Bryan! Nice shots. I like the Tie-Rod Idea.

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people have been putting KA heads on L-4's for a couple years now because the head bolt spacing is the same and water jackets are pretty damn close too. I believe theres an oil drain on the back of the head that needs to be plugged but I am not sure in the DOHC case?

 

1 fastz do you think gaskets are absolutely neccessary between each section of the head if theyre surface ground? I am really ponderign doing this! peace.

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History of the KA head idea and part 2

 

Bryan is just the closest to finishing it, or will actually finish it. dont hear much from TBS anymore.

 

I should have mine running within a month or so, not in time for MSA obviously. The guy working on mine recently had a trip to England to hang out with an F1 team. Meh, Id rather do that than work on my head as well.

 

P.S. Hey Bryan, half of your head is still mine, lol!

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Well, half the head as far as EDM cost goes is yours, but engineering and Labor to this point is My dads and I! LOL.

 

 

We are making doubles of what were doing, as my dad wants to prove this head on a NA car, so Were going to put the head on a flat top 3.1 liter that is in my silver 77 car.

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There is ALOT of cost in time that has gone into this project. Over 500 Man hours Between my father and I for sure. We have been doing LOTS of calculations, trial and error, quality controll, etc. The pics just show ideas. The ORIGINAL idea WAS mcadams Idea, plain and simple, and he came to me with the idea and we worked on some first ideas that some worked and some didnt. he then had to move to Minn. So he does recive credit for the ORIGINAL idea. Its not too dificulet to come up with an Idea, but making the idea WORK is the tricky part. Just like you cant patend an IDEA, per say, but you have to show a working model or proof of it. Lots of people have been telling me to patend this working model when its running, im not sure yet though. Like doweling the heads together, Im not going to post on the boards HOW we located, Where we located from, to be so precise. The pics were taken of the thirds before some final critical opperations were made, for the reason that we dont want to give out all of our secrets, but just to give you guys an idea on HOW it works. Im not going to go into detail on how we got the tie rods to be EXACTLY parrelell and perpendicular to eachother fron the rear of the head to the front, as they HAVE to be exact or they WILL exert forces in un-wanted directions and cause un-even clamping and therefore a possibly leak. These heads were off of two different KA engines also, and they were cut at different thicknesses in past time, as well as warped. So these pics give the basic idea, but FAR, and I mean FAR from the whole story from an enginerring aspect. MANY, of people on the boards, said to just weld the heads together, or JB weld them. Those ideas would of never worked, they would of created MANY forces/stresses that could of NEVER been taken out and therefore un-even cam wear, as well as rotaters, etc. As for a valve cover, its a full sheet metal one, thats completed, but dont have the camara here at the shop, but pics will be up soon.

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There is ALOT of cost in time that has gone into this project. Over 500 Man hours Between my father and I for sure. We have been doing LOTS of calculations, trial and error, quality controll, etc. The pics just show ideas. The ORIGINAL idea WAS mcadams Idea, plain and simple, and he came to me with the idea and we worked on some first ideas that some worked and some didnt. he then had to move to Minn. So he does recive credit for the ORIGINAL idea. Its not too dificulet to come up with an Idea, but making the idea WORK is the tricky part. Just like you cant patend an IDEA, per say, but you have to show a working model or proof of it. Lots of people have been telling me to patend this working model when its running, im not sure yet though. Like doweling the heads together, Im not going to post on the boards HOW we located, Where we located from, to be so precise. The pics were taken of the thirds before some final critical opperations were made, for the reason that we dont want to give out all of our secrets, but just to give you guys an idea on HOW it works. Im not going to go into detail on how we got the tie rods to be EXACTLY parrelell and perpendicular to eachother fron the rear of the head to the front, as they HAVE to be exact or they WILL exert forces in un-wanted directions and cause un-even clamping and therefore a possibly leak. These heads were off of two different KA engines also, and they were cut at different thicknesses in past time, as well as warped. So these pics give the basic idea, but FAR, and I mean FAR from the whole story from an enginerring aspect. MANY, of people on the boards, said to just weld the heads together, or JB weld them. Those ideas would of never worked, they would of created MANY forces/stresses that could of NEVER been taken out and therefore un-even cam wear, as well as rotaters, etc. As for a valve cover, its a full sheet metal one, thats completed, but dont have the camara here at the shop, but pics will be up soon.

 

<3

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