WizardBlack Posted August 24, 2008 Share Posted August 24, 2008 TIRES!!! have a lot to do with mounting difficulty. We are not mounting a 285/65/17" SUV tire on these rims. Stiffness: The race tires have thick, stiff sidewalls. A lot of high perf tires have similar sidewalls though not as extreme. mounting clearance: You go get a xxx/40/xx-Z-rated tire and try to mount it on any rim and it is harder than 99.99% of the tires out there. It just doesn't fit into the drop center section as well as taller tires. The cord and bead are rock hard to keep it's shape at high speed. This requires 2 people at the mounting machine or they will gouge the rim. I don't care if the redneck can do it by himself. It is not a wise move with a customer's blemish-free, brand-spanking-new rims. Fitment: What sizes are giving the most difficulty? It would be a good indication of the optimum size and sidewall design for street use. I'm using the oft-quoted 275/40-17's for the rear and 255/40-17 in the front. I went with g-Force sport tires which seem to be pretty decent without much 'all-weather' consideration for a pretty economical "sport" tire. They had decent reviews. I didn't want anything super soft since I will indeed spend a lot of time on the street getting things worked out. Likewise, it won't get a lot of miles until next year; I'd say. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=BFGoodrich&tireModel=g-Force+Sport They could probably be another 10 or 20mm wider in the rear without interference with factory suspension. I'd say 275 gives pretty straight sidewalls. 285 would probably give a bit fuller look. The front could go wider since the closest contact point is actually the little ridge on the inner lip where clip-on balancing weights would have been installed. It comes close to the OE-style spring perch. I can fit just a bit more than my pinky between the two. Ages ago I was trained to use the mounting equipment (except the road force variance machine which wasn't around at the time) and it looked pretty straightforward to me; it's just that your typical tire guy doesn't have a lot of sport-specific experience; thus the advisement for everyone to warn their shop of choice. Yeah it's tough, but like you said, they aren't exactly 'pedestrian' tires, either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted August 26, 2008 Share Posted August 26, 2008 Any body else having rubbing issues on the front?? Like where your airdam meets the fender? and around the zg flare in the same area? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WizardBlack Posted September 3, 2008 Share Posted September 3, 2008 Yes, mine hits on both ends where my Xenon 280Z bumper meets the fenders. Just about from 1.5" from the top to 7" from the top. I unbolted the ends (where it bolts vertically to the fenders), drilled new holes and remounted with the ends of the bumper sticking out ever so slightly. It doesn't bother me too much, but I plan to replace the fenders this winter since they are messed up. You could probably make small brackets to hold the ends out a bit that runs to the frame rail inside the wheel wells. It seems the fenders could use this behind the wheels as well (since they split there) anyways. For comparison, I have the typical Tokico struts/springs and no flares yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WizardBlack Posted September 3, 2008 Share Posted September 3, 2008 Here ya go. Don't mind the delaminating paint on the bumper. The PO didn't even scuff the urethane before spraying basecoat directly to it. Note that it is essentially touching while sitting still. Not to mention many guys have their cars about 1~2" lower with sectioned struts, etc. Likewise, you need more room for bump travel. On a side note, I've never had a car so light and "smooth" that I could roll it along with one hand and also grab a wheel and turn the car by hand while it's sitting still. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudypoochris Posted September 3, 2008 Author Share Posted September 3, 2008 Hmmm. That is unfortunate. In my tests I don't think the tire was that close. What angle are your control arms at statically? Flat or pointing down? I called the rep. and he is going to get back to me on the current status of the RB-R. Does everyone have this fender clearance issue or just the two of you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted September 3, 2008 Share Posted September 3, 2008 Yep thats exactly where mine is rubbing with with the same airdam. And ive cut mine also. the passenger side is worse than the drivers. Ill try to get pics but my camera is on the fritz. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zardilla Posted September 4, 2008 Share Posted September 4, 2008 Myron (EMWHYROHEN) Could you comment on any issues you've had with these wheels in the last couple of months? I know you said you trimmed the valence (but aren't you running an airdam?) and maybe trimmed the fender as well. Does adding the ZG flares provide that extra bit of clearence needed? Thanks Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudypoochris Posted September 4, 2008 Author Share Posted September 4, 2008 What car, what suspension, what bumper for your testing? Used a 72' 240z with Tokico Illuminas, coilovers, and bumpsteer spacers (to correct the angle of the control arms because statically it sits rather low). The bumper on this car was the stock lower valance. There was obvious interference when the valance starts to wrap down about 1" in (as to be expected), but not at the valance to fender meeting point where an air dam would typically go straight down. The second car was a 76' 280z I do believe, with 'stock' suspension and the air dam pictured below. The first tests provided a good amount of clearance. The later test was quite close, but I do not believe there was interference. On the flip side some damage had become the front suspension and the arms were also completely flat statically. I will have to talk to Nate to understand better why the hubs were pushed out. Wizard, if you are to mount the air dam flush to the fender, is the problem corrected? Anyone who is having rubbing issues at the fender/airdam meeting point, please do post photos. If this is still going to go through, count me in for a set! This is still going on, if you are interested send me a PM with your email address and I shall send you ordering information. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gritz Posted September 4, 2008 Share Posted September 4, 2008 you guys are running huge tires...255 17's thats a pretty big tire..maybe a 235 or 245 would cure your clearance issues.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gollum Posted September 5, 2008 Share Posted September 5, 2008 We weren't nearly that close to the fender on our tests iirc. I think the pictures earlier in the thread show that pretty well. How much caster are you running wizzard? Are you using aftermarket tension control arm bushings? To me it looks like the wheel is centered alot farther forward than it can be. When I was changing my springs recently and was hooking my tension rods back up I noticed the wheel had at least 3" of for and aft play while under full static weight. That's a lot of movement for a car not on jacks. So in lue of that information, I'd suggest checking the angle on your control arm, and how much play you have with caster to move the wheel back a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WizardBlack Posted September 6, 2008 Share Posted September 6, 2008 We weren't nearly that close to the fender on our tests iirc. I think the pictures earlier in the thread show that pretty well. How much caster are you running wizzard? Are you using aftermarket tension control arm bushings? To me it looks like the wheel is centered alot farther forward than it can be. When I was changing my springs recently and was hooking my tension rods back up I noticed the wheel had at least 3" of for and aft play while under full static weight. That's a lot of movement for a car not on jacks. So in lue of that information, I'd suggest checking the angle on your control arm, and how much play you have with caster to move the wheel back a bit. Yeah, I have Energy Suspension bushings and Tokico springs. That's pretty much it. Maybe I buggered my control arm bushing install? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gollum Posted September 7, 2008 Share Posted September 7, 2008 That might actually be it honestly, just the fact that they're not quishing like stock rubber. There was a Z at our meet today that was running 245/45/17 in front and there was oodles of room by the fender still. I think there's something going on with those having that much rubbing issue at the fender. Also, user ncfisher that we fit the rims on previous also recalled having plenty of space at the fender itself. The only clearence issue WE were concerned about was if you were running an air dam that came inward quite a ways. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudypoochris Posted September 7, 2008 Author Share Posted September 7, 2008 We are talking about 35 year old cars here as well. It bothers me that they are rubbing even statically. Of corse triming of the stock lower valance was to be expected, but it should of worked just fine with that style of air dam. Please let me know if you guys figure anything out in that regard. Sorry guys. Spent a lot of time trying to figure out just the right offset and tire size, hope a quick fix becomes aparent. If you want wheels in Australia ...check the Vic Z Car site http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,2761.0.html $320 a wheel delivered anywhere in Australia .. haven't arrived yet.. and any color as long as you want "steel grey".. not sure what color that is This is an option for the Australian buyers. Some pros. and cons as I see them... Con: More expensive no color choice Pro: Shipment should be quicker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted September 7, 2008 Share Posted September 7, 2008 Ive trimmed my fender and air dam enough to where it barely rubs. its not a big deal to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WizardBlack Posted September 7, 2008 Share Posted September 7, 2008 Nor me, but you have me a bit worried about the bushings, now. I searched and the "big" bushing goes to the back. Therefore, you can't really get them to stick forward more than they should; maybe back. I guess the TC rod bushings are the culprit. I will try to get my front wheels off and support the front weight by the LCA's to get an idea of the "fore/aft" angle on my LCA's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjhines Posted September 7, 2008 Share Posted September 7, 2008 The front rub issues are usually due to increasing caster by lengthening the TC rods. This can be done with thicker or harder bushings, extra washers, or simply ensuring that the TC-"hockey-stick" to ball joint connection is made with the control arm pulled as far forward as it can get. Other things like installing the inner-pivot bushings backwards can cause the front wheels to move forward from their normal position. Check that last one because the arm does not like to move well if it is binding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WizardBlack Posted September 10, 2008 Share Posted September 10, 2008 Well, I guess my warped rim is definitely not gonna work. I've driven the car about 75 miles in testing things since I got the wheels on and it won't hold air. I guess my project is moving on to the body repair process I had planned for winter early. I will be talking to Kim now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudypoochris Posted September 10, 2008 Author Share Posted September 10, 2008 I will be talking to Kim now... If you have any issues, let me know! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stealth-Z Posted September 11, 2008 Share Posted September 11, 2008 Figured I should chime in on the exact suspension setup of the brown 78 280Z used a few months ago for testing. The suspension is not 100% stock. It has energy suspensions urethane bushings, Tokico strut inserts and blue MSA springs. Tie rods and ball joints were genuine Nissan parts. The setup was done about six months before the photos were taken. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WizardBlack Posted September 12, 2008 Share Posted September 12, 2008 If you have any issues, let me know! Hmm, haven't heard back from him, but I found out it was a false alarm. I had a nail stuck in between the treads underneath a little pebble. I went back over it again to be sure and picked the pebbles out and that's when I saw it. It's just strange that it loses all pressure over night but it didn't start bleeding until several days after the last time I drove it. Ah, well. Back to WOT turbo tuning after I get it plugged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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