jeffer949 Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 Awesome work derek. Now get that job done then start machining!!!! I wanna see your car run on these by at least July!!!! lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Posted December 8, 2008 Author Share Posted December 8, 2008 Awesome work derek. Now get that job done then start machining!!!! I wanna see your car run on these by at least July!!!! lol Hey Jeff how you been? I know, can you believe how long this is taking? When I showed you the first pattern at the Daytona convention I had no idea it would be this involved. Derek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 Nice "raw" castings. Very nice, indeed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tfreer85 Posted December 9, 2008 Share Posted December 9, 2008 SWEETNESS!!! I so wish I could dapple in this metal casting. Great work, looking foward to more updates! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daeron Posted December 9, 2008 Share Posted December 9, 2008 I agree with tony, those are impressive raw castings, for a couple of guys who go about short sleeved and glove free and for my part, I will say: SCREW the machine work, I want to see these puppies bolted to a mock-up longblock (preferably in an S30 engine bay, but I'm not picky!) PRONTO!!! Seriously though, much respect! cannot WAIT to see you finish! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted December 9, 2008 Share Posted December 9, 2008 Hey yeah that looks really good. I'm most impressed. The short run on the bosses is a bummer, but hey at least that won't be too hard to fix. I can't hardly wait too to see them all mounted up pretty and in place. I completely understand the other side though, the idea of taking your daily drive out and ripping guts out to put in a new intake, I did that on my jeep, and tho I had the parts, it still took a couple weeks. fortunately I had my Z to drive. hopefully your install with go smoothly, especially since you've already for the Megasquirt worked out. So are you just going to use a standard intake gasket and cut out the parts in between for it? Phar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Posted December 11, 2008 Author Share Posted December 11, 2008 I agree with tony, those are impressive raw castings, for a couple of guys who go about short sleeved and glove free and for my part, I will say: SCREW the machine work, I want to see these puppies bolted to a mock-up longblock (preferably in an S30 engine bay, but I'm not picky!) PRONTO!!! Seriously though, much respect! cannot WAIT to see you finish! Thanks guys You don't know how bad I want to see it happen as well! I'm going to try to knock out the machine work on Friday. I'll be able to bolt it up to my mockup head but that's the best I can do. Like Phar said. I'm in no hurry to take down my daily driver. I'm having too much fun, and tooling around in the F250 diesel just isn't the same. I still have a ton to do. Pattern and core box for vacuum log Machine rear manifold clean up the bores make jig for machining butterflies machine butterflies finish linkage make air cleaners make injector hold downs fabricate fuel lines machine fuel distribution block make surge tank YIKES!! I probably shouldn't have done that. That's a mighty big list. So are you just going to use a standard intake gasket and cut out the parts in between for it? Phar The flanges are identical to the stock manifolds so they will use the stock gasket. Derek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daeron Posted December 11, 2008 Share Posted December 11, 2008 in all seriousness, bolting on to a mock-up head was all I expected.. I just wanted to clarify and differentiate my "command to you" from the rest.. hence, screw working on it, bolt it onto something! This has GOT to be one of the all-time coolest Z-projects I have ever seen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Posted December 11, 2008 Author Share Posted December 11, 2008 Well truth be told I couldn't wait either! Making chips The new clamping arrangement worked out perfectly. Now I really have to go back to work. I have the head setup in a prominent place so I'll keep motivated. So far it's looking exactly like I wanted. I'm really happy. Thanks Derek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferrariferg Posted December 11, 2008 Share Posted December 11, 2008 That is looking absolutely awesome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted December 11, 2008 Share Posted December 11, 2008 Those stacks will clear the brake master vac and master cylinder, right... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Posted December 11, 2008 Author Share Posted December 11, 2008 That is looking absolutely awesome. Thanks! Those stacks will clear the brake master vac and master cylinder, right... No problem. The end of the bells are where the face of the SUs are so they don't come very far out. The rear bell might be a tad close to the accelerator mount coming off of the fire wall but that won't pose a problem. Derek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted December 11, 2008 Share Posted December 11, 2008 Really? Man, you should photograph for a Porn Mag with that photographic talent... You made them look absolutely huge! I think I have throttle-envy.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted December 11, 2008 Share Posted December 11, 2008 You made the Wiki excited. That takes a lot! Nice job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daeron Posted December 12, 2008 Share Posted December 12, 2008 Words fail! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted December 12, 2008 Share Posted December 12, 2008 Words like YOU SUCK keep crossing my mind..... Beautiful work!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Posted December 12, 2008 Author Share Posted December 12, 2008 Words fail! Well when words fail cash can usually get the message across! Words like YOU SUCK keep crossing my mind.....Beautiful work!!!! Yes it's going to be pretty tough around here if this thing actually runs! I ordered up the bore polishers from MSC so I can get the insides finished off. Then I can finalize the butterflies. I'm starting to lean towards stainless steel for the butterflies as opposed to aluminum. That way all of the components will be stainless. Derek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted December 12, 2008 Share Posted December 12, 2008 Stainless or Brass (even mild steel) is the standard. Brass is usually the choice. Aluminium may expand equally with the bores, and cause a sticking problem on slam-close throttle conditions once the bores get slightly fouled with fine dust that passes the filters. The brass and steel throttle plates normally used expand slightly less with the heat than the mazak and aluminum bodies do, letting them fit progressively 'looser' in the bore as they all heat up. This keeps them from sticking, and is one of hte reasons for that 'sealing paint' mentioned earlier in the thread...it does a nice job of keeping any actual gaps from opening up when the bodies are at operating temperature. I don't know of any commercial applications where aluminum is used on a butterfly. Even in slides or bike carbs they are usually hard-anonidized to keep any galling/metal transfer from occurring---which I've experienced in compressor butterfly throttles where it's Aluminum to Aluminum contact. You have a SS bore in that area as I recall? Probably best to be brass on SS or brass on AL in that case. Easier to machine brass... Which you might want to consider on those bodies once they are all machined, either alodine or anonidize the aluminum parts to keep the 'white fuzz' from growing on them. The alodine will give them a nice, OEM look of slightly bronzish tint, and it's easy enough to apply with a swab/brush while the bodies are warmed (to let it get into the metal pores nicely). Aircraft Spruce and Caswell Plating are online sources for that kind of stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted December 12, 2008 Share Posted December 12, 2008 Now them be some Sexy Intakes. Oh course you'll be forever known as that Horny Z guy. But really those look awesome, and that clamping idea looks like it worked out really well. looks very stable on the mill. I'm impressed at all the machining you got done with how busy you've been. really it looks amazing. Too bad you can't fit your air filters in the throats on those horns, maybe fit 2 screens, one back in a couple inches, then wide cell oiled foam, and a shiney outside screen to hold it in place. that would work well and be showey. Cleaning the foam would be a pain unless you found an easy way to snap the outside screen in and out easilly. (large snap ring?) For daily driving you could adapt a 240z/260z Air cleaner to the front of the horns. so you wouldn't have to worry much about airflow. n just remove the foam between the screens. Again awesome job, keep the picts coming! Phar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Posted December 12, 2008 Author Share Posted December 12, 2008 Stainless or Brass (even mild steel) is the standard. Brass is usually the choice.Aluminium may expand equally with the bores, and cause a sticking problem on slam-close throttle conditions once the bores get slightly fouled with fine dust that passes the filters. The brass and steel throttle plates normally used expand slightly less with the heat than the mazak and aluminum bodies do, letting them fit progressively 'looser' in the bore as they all heat up. This keeps them from sticking, and is one of hte reasons for that 'sealing paint' mentioned earlier in the thread...it does a nice job of keeping any actual gaps from opening up when the bodies are at operating temperature. I don't know of any commercial applications where aluminum is used on a butterfly. Even in slides or bike carbs they are usually hard-anonidized to keep any galling/metal transfer from occurring---which I've experienced in compressor butterfly throttles where it's Aluminum to Aluminum contact. You have a SS bore in that area as I recall? Probably best to be brass on SS or brass on AL in that case. Easier to machine brass... Which you might want to consider on those bodies once they are all machined, either alodine or anonidize the aluminum parts to keep the 'white fuzz' from growing on them. The alodine will give them a nice, OEM look of slightly bronzish tint, and it's easy enough to apply with a swab/brush while the bodies are warmed (to let it get into the metal pores nicely). Aircraft Spruce and Caswell Plating are online sources for that kind of stuff. Hi Tony I originally chose the aluminum for the butterflies because I saw that Kinsler used 2024 for theirs. Of course this was for a race application not street. What started me thinking on this was since there are no throttle stops it's just the butterflies slamming shut each throttle closing. I could see the aluminum deforming over time. I think I'll go with stainless first and if it becomes a pain to work with I'll switch to brass. The alodine is a good idea. I've used it before on other applications but always under paint. One method I've used on sculptural applications is to heat the aluminum and then brush on butchers wax. you then give it a good wiping down. This keeps it an aluminum color. I'll order up some alodine and do some tests with both and see which one I like best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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