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Making my own EFI intake... The First Casting


Derek

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Awesome work derek. Now get that job done then start machining!!!! I wanna see your car run on these by at least July!!!! lol

 

Hey Jeff how you been?

I know, can you believe how long this is taking? When I showed you the first pattern at the Daytona convention I had no idea it would be this involved.

 

Derek

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I agree with tony, those are impressive raw castings, for a couple of guys who go about short sleeved and glove free :lmao:

 

and for my part, I will say: SCREW the machine work, I want to see these puppies bolted to a mock-up longblock (preferably in an S30 engine bay, but I'm not picky!) PRONTO!!! :ass:

 

Seriously though, much respect! cannot WAIT to see you finish!

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Hey yeah that looks really good. I'm most impressed. The short run on the bosses is a bummer, but hey at least that won't be too hard to fix. I can't hardly wait too to see them all mounted up pretty and in place. I completely understand the other side though, the idea of taking your daily drive out and ripping guts out to put in a new intake, I did that on my jeep, and tho I had the parts, it still took a couple weeks. fortunately I had my Z to drive. hopefully your install with go smoothly, especially since you've already for the Megasquirt worked out.

 

So are you just going to use a standard intake gasket and cut out the parts in between for it?

 

Phar

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I agree with tony, those are impressive raw castings, for a couple of guys who go about short sleeved and glove free :lmao:

 

and for my part, I will say: SCREW the machine work, I want to see these puppies bolted to a mock-up longblock (preferably in an S30 engine bay, but I'm not picky!) PRONTO!!! :ass:

 

Seriously though, much respect! cannot WAIT to see you finish!

 

 

Thanks guys

 

You don't know how bad I want to see it happen as well!

I'm going to try to knock out the machine work on Friday. I'll be able to bolt it up to my mockup head but that's the best I can do. Like Phar said. I'm in no hurry to take down my daily driver. I'm having too much fun, and tooling around in the F250 diesel just isn't the same.

I still have a ton to do.

 

Pattern and core box for vacuum log

Machine rear manifold

clean up the bores

make jig for machining butterflies

machine butterflies

finish linkage

make air cleaners

make injector hold downs

fabricate fuel lines

machine fuel distribution block

make surge tank

 

YIKES!!

I probably shouldn't have done that. That's a mighty big list.

 

 

So are you just going to use a standard intake gasket and cut out the parts in between for it?

 

Phar

 

The flanges are identical to the stock manifolds so they will use the stock gasket.

 

 

Derek

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in all seriousness, bolting on to a mock-up head was all I expected.. I just wanted to clarify and differentiate my "command to you" from the rest.. hence, screw working on it, bolt it onto something!

 

This has GOT to be one of the all-time coolest Z-projects I have ever seen.

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DSC_0017.jpg

 

DSC_0012.jpg

 

 

DSC_0013.jpg

 

 

Well truth be told I couldn't wait either!

 

Making chips

DSC_0011.jpg

 

The new clamping arrangement worked out perfectly.

 

DSC_0009.jpg

 

 

Now I really have to go back to work. I have the head setup in a prominent place so I'll keep motivated.

 

 

So far it's looking exactly like I wanted. I'm really happy.

 

Thanks

Derek

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That is looking absolutely awesome. :)

 

 

Thanks!

 

 

Those stacks will clear the brake master vac and master cylinder, right...

 

No problem. The end of the bells are where the face of the SUs are so they don't come very far out. The rear bell might be a tad close to the accelerator

mount coming off of the fire wall but that won't pose a problem.

 

Derek

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Words fail!

 

 

Well when words fail cash can usually get the message across!

 

Words like YOU SUCK keep crossing my mind.....

Beautiful work!!!!

 

Yes it's going to be pretty tough around here if this thing actually runs!

 

I ordered up the bore polishers from MSC so I can get the insides finished off. Then I can finalize the butterflies. I'm starting to lean towards stainless steel for the butterflies as opposed to aluminum. That way all of the components will be stainless.

 

Derek

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Stainless or Brass (even mild steel) is the standard. Brass is usually the choice.

Aluminium may expand equally with the bores, and cause a sticking problem on slam-close throttle conditions once the bores get slightly fouled with fine dust that passes the filters.

 

The brass and steel throttle plates normally used expand slightly less with the heat than the mazak and aluminum bodies do, letting them fit progressively 'looser' in the bore as they all heat up. This keeps them from sticking, and is one of hte reasons for that 'sealing paint' mentioned earlier in the thread...it does a nice job of keeping any actual gaps from opening up when the bodies are at operating temperature.

 

I don't know of any commercial applications where aluminum is used on a butterfly. Even in slides or bike carbs they are usually hard-anonidized to keep any galling/metal transfer from occurring---which I've experienced in compressor butterfly throttles where it's Aluminum to Aluminum contact. You have a SS bore in that area as I recall? Probably best to be brass on SS or brass on AL in that case. Easier to machine brass...

 

Which you might want to consider on those bodies once they are all machined, either alodine or anonidize the aluminum parts to keep the 'white fuzz' from growing on them. The alodine will give them a nice, OEM look of slightly bronzish tint, and it's easy enough to apply with a swab/brush while the bodies are warmed (to let it get into the metal pores nicely). Aircraft Spruce and Caswell Plating are online sources for that kind of stuff.

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Now them be some Sexy Intakes. Oh course you'll be forever known as that Horny Z guy. But really those look awesome, and that clamping idea looks like it worked out really well. looks very stable on the mill. I'm impressed at all the machining you got done with how busy you've been. really it looks amazing.

 

Too bad you can't fit your air filters in the throats on those horns, maybe fit 2 screens, one back in a couple inches, then wide cell oiled foam, and a shiney outside screen to hold it in place. that would work well and be showey. Cleaning the foam would be a pain unless you found an easy way to snap the outside screen in and out easilly. (large snap ring?)

 

For daily driving you could adapt a 240z/260z Air cleaner to the front of the horns. so you wouldn't have to worry much about airflow. n just remove the foam between the screens.

 

Again awesome job, keep the picts coming!

 

Phar

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Stainless or Brass (even mild steel) is the standard. Brass is usually the choice.

Aluminium may expand equally with the bores, and cause a sticking problem on slam-close throttle conditions once the bores get slightly fouled with fine dust that passes the filters.

 

The brass and steel throttle plates normally used expand slightly less with the heat than the mazak and aluminum bodies do, letting them fit progressively 'looser' in the bore as they all heat up. This keeps them from sticking, and is one of hte reasons for that 'sealing paint' mentioned earlier in the thread...it does a nice job of keeping any actual gaps from opening up when the bodies are at operating temperature.

 

I don't know of any commercial applications where aluminum is used on a butterfly. Even in slides or bike carbs they are usually hard-anonidized to keep any galling/metal transfer from occurring---which I've experienced in compressor butterfly throttles where it's Aluminum to Aluminum contact. You have a SS bore in that area as I recall? Probably best to be brass on SS or brass on AL in that case. Easier to machine brass...

 

Which you might want to consider on those bodies once they are all machined, either alodine or anonidize the aluminum parts to keep the 'white fuzz' from growing on them. The alodine will give them a nice, OEM look of slightly bronzish tint, and it's easy enough to apply with a swab/brush while the bodies are warmed (to let it get into the metal pores nicely). Aircraft Spruce and Caswell Plating are online sources for that kind of stuff.

 

Hi Tony

I originally chose the aluminum for the butterflies because I saw that Kinsler used 2024 for theirs. Of course this was for a race application not street. What started me thinking on this was since there are no throttle stops it's just the butterflies slamming shut each throttle closing. I could see the aluminum deforming over time. I think I'll go with stainless first and if it becomes a pain to work with I'll switch to brass.

 

The alodine is a good idea. I've used it before on other applications but always under paint. One method I've used on sculptural applications is to heat the aluminum and then brush on butchers wax. you then give it a good wiping down. This keeps it an aluminum color. I'll order up some alodine and do some tests with both and see which one I like best.

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