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Making my own EFI intake... The First Casting


Derek

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Too late!

Since I opted to go with the procedure I mentioned earlier the manifold won't even accept an injector with a pintle cap.

I guess we'll just have to see how it runs.

 

Derek

 

 

Hey Derek-

Tony is right, the pintle cap forms part of the spray pattern.

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Yah, no, the horns don't hit the hood.... the hood hits the horns!!!!! Fix the damn hood on that car man, just a coupla notches.....

 

 

I.. I can't give you a serious reaction. I'll be staring at these pictures for a day or so before I can really give you a serious reaction. goals one through two achieved with a bullet.

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:) WOW!

Nothing more I can say. Well done. Pat yourself on the back for me.

 

P.S. This is his daily driver. If he parks this at the shops with no hood, as soon as people see that masterpeice, people would go as far as ring a tow truck to try and steal it.

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How about a half airbox that the top is open. The hood closes and your left with a opening to draw air into the trumpets. You wouldnt have to make a scoop or anything, just an opening that leads into the half box thats sealed to the bottom of the hood....

 

Its hard to explain it in words. Hopefully someone understands..

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yea, on first thoughts im gonna say open up the hood a bit, but then nup.

it would be way cooler if it all fits under the hood.

then you get people thinking, "cool, another awesome zed, could it be any better"

then once they see under the bonnet, It'll be "BAM!!! FREAKING AWESOME!!!!"

 

but yea, the angle does look a little funny to me.

also, you mentioned that you may redo the lines? If it were me, i would leave the lines all parallel at the main bend around the back of the head, and then open up to meet the spacings on the block.

It'll look neater, and transition around the head a bit better.

 

All up though, this is legendary.

 

give it 10 years, and people will be talking about the fabled Twin cam head, 1FastZed's copy, and the handcast 6 throttle intake manifold (and how they should have all been merged in a Z God tribute)

Seriously, i see this as epic.

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Thanks guys.

This is the part I've been waiting (dreading) for. What fits what doesn't fit.

The hood issue is really minor. the hardest part of that is pulling the Kurt vice off of the mill and wrestling the angle table in. The setup is pretty simple.

Everything fits right now underneath but when I tilt it I'm going to have to move a few bosses that will hit the header tubes. But that's why they invented the word prototype!

 

but yea, the angle does look a little funny to me.

also, you mentioned that you may redo the lines? If it were me, i would leave the lines all parallel at the main bend around the back of the head, and then open up to meet the spacings on the block.

It'll look neater, and transition around the head a bit better.

 

 

The fuel lines were one of those "I have a vision" deals but when I started actual fabrication there were a lot of issues that popped up. If the concept of this works out in the August heat then I'll redo it. I had the lines all bent before I realized I need to have enough spacing on the fuel block to get a line wrench on the fittings so that part is especially convoluted.

 

The vacuum block fits no problem. I kind of wish there was a little more separation between the firewall and manifold but that's one that won't be changing.

 

It looks like the best way to handle the throttle is going to be with a cable. I was hoping that I would be able to make the existing bell crank on the firewall work. Theoretically I could put a second bell crank closer to the hood latch and run it from there but it's starting to get crowded over there.

I don't know whether to run a cable directly from the pedal or to go from the bell crank. I had also hoped to drive the throttles from the rear lever only, leaving the top of the manifold clean but I'm getting a little nervous on that setup. I'll probably play it safe at this point and run it over to the center tie bar. I'm using a stainless shrouded cable so it won't look too bad.

 

I may have to move the TPS over to another shaft as it looks like it's going to be a bit close to the #6 header tube.

 

All in all not too bad for a first fitting.

 

Thanks again for all the support. This probably wouldn't of happened without you guys.

 

Derek

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It's a dessert topping and a throttle body bore sealer.

This stuffs the sh!t! I did a test on a spare tube and old butterfly. I balanced the butterfly in the tube and it had a lot more gap than my worst bore. I painted a fairly liberal coat on both sides of the butterfly. I let it flash for about 20 min. and then baked it at 350 for an hour. Perfect. The goop maintained its structure and the bore was air tight. The butterfly popped right open and out as there wasn't a shaft.

 

DSC_0008-1.jpg

 

You can see the sealing ridge it left. The camera makes it look a lot larger than it is. After baking the stuff is uber tough. I couldn't scratch it off with a set of needle nose pliers. I put the butterfly back in and even though it wasn't in the same exact spot I couldn't see any light.

 

Needless to say they'll be getting the Goop 213 treatment.

 

Oh and my hood is staying on and unmolested.

 

 

Derek

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I agree with leaving the hood alone, REALLY, i just find it hard to find fault with the manifold :)

 

I would go with a throttle cable from the pedal; if you have to retrofit a cable ANYHOW you may as well get the maximum benefit from the smoother operation. Also, I would try to find a way to hide the throttle cable; possibly snake it around the spark plug side and come from the front, between 2 and 3?? MAYBE even come up from below with it, if you can make it stand the heat... Or slanting across from the front of the cylinder head, on the front spark plug mount hole.. but full cable. There just isn't any point in retaining the potential failure points that are the solid linkage; instead, shave the stock bracketing in the engine bay and clean it up.

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Hey Derek, that's looking really sweet. Sucks you'll have to do a little modification, but that's like you said, what prototypes are for. Very sweet tho. they look amazing actually mounted in the car.

 

don't mod the hood. I don't have to say that, I know, I just think it would be more harm than good.

 

Soo, the throttle linkage. maybe you should fashion a second bell pivot near Cyl#6 and link the stock and 2nd pivot together then to your throttles. I don't know exactly how well this would fit, but I think it would look really cool if it did fit...

 

Seeing it mounted. I was thinking about the PCV , you could run a tube down into your balance tube between the manifolds. It would help milage and actually lower pressure in the valve cover. tho your original idea of using a small filter there would work well too. just a thought since positive ventilation also pulls fumes from the crankcase and neutral ventilation relies on blowby to push the fumes out. What are your thoughts?

 

Okay Seeing how that Goo worked, I'm sold, it looks like it made a great seal and even better after it's setup. if I ever need something to do that job, I know what to use. You know I was skeptical about it. but now I feel like a congressman being lobbied on bank bailouts. I didn't think it would be so easy to chang my mind.... hehe.

 

Seeing it installed I really bet you were tempted to set your MS stuff up on it and give it a crank... Even if it didn't fit yet, hearing it run is sooo tempting and you know we're all drooling out here.

 

So I hope your tweaking goes quickly and smoothly so you'll get it started this month!

 

Phar

 

p.s: you might consider a plated or billet water hose outlet. it looks so mundane next to them fancy horns..

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wow... that's all I can say.

 

You do some awesome work. My dream setup is a turbo blow through ITB setup with injectors. This is the closest thing I've seen. I had no idea people still do castings. Very Impressed. Let us know when you decide to sell some pieces. Those Injector clamps are pretty trick!

 

-Ed

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p.s: you might consider a plated or billet water hose outlet. it looks so mundane next to them fancy horns..

 

I couldn't disagree more (Huzzah! not tryin to be a jerk) and I will tell you why...

 

The T-stat housing and the valve cover will match the manifold MUCH MUCH better when they (and possibly even the head itself) have been cleaned and rough-polished juuuust the right amount. (each piece will probably need somewhat different treatment, since the head only needs to be *so* fine, and the T-stt housing is pretty rough already, so you don't want to go TOO fine on the valve cover. A good clean and rough polish on the valve cover, some serious work on the water pump outlet (but still using that piece, its actually rather a nice one for a stocker) and a good thorough cleaning only on the head and.. they all ought to line up *about* the same in appearance. Top it off with a nice polished aluminum oil cap and you are set.

 

For nitty-gritty details, I would work the hardest on the sides of the valve cover (the greatest section of real estate) and then allow the flat plane of the "valley" on the top to retain a bit more of a rough look than the "tanks" on the sides, and then hit the letters and the raised edges along the middle with a smooth grinder wheel to give them a fresh machine edge.

 

 

I tell you, I think about these things so much, you'd think I had a set on order.. If only; my goals are far mroe modest.

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Seeing it mounted. I was thinking about the PCV , you could run a tube down into your balance tube between the manifolds. It would help milage and actually lower pressure in the valve cover. tho your original idea of using a small filter there would work well too. just a thought since positive ventilation also pulls fumes from the crankcase and neutral ventilation relies on blowby to push the fumes out. What are your thoughts?

 

 

Hi Phar

The PVC is going to be mounted on a 90 degree boss that's welded to the bottom of the balance tube between 2 and 3. This way the stock hose can be shortened and still utilized. I'll have a K&N breather on the VC for now.

 

Just say no to bling! No colored anodizing either! Think old school 70's factory race team.

My plan on the valve cover is to clean it up and then start out walnut blasting. If that won't do it then I'll switch to glass spheres then back to the walnut shells. Same with the water outlet. The thermostat housing is new and off of a 280 as I have to mount the coolant sensor in it. The valvecover, timing cover, water outlet are all die cast. That's why they have a smoother finish than things like a manifold that's sand cast. So if you go at them with too heavy of an abrasive they start looking a little rough.

 

Right now the plan (until it changes again) is to run a cable from the existing bell crank under the the manifold to a lever on the bottom of #4 throttle shaft. Better than driving it from #6 and very workable. I have 1 extra lever so I don't have to set up to do a run. By using the bell crank I can do a stealth mounting of my cruise control and snake the cable behind the brake booster. I hope.

 

 

I stripped the manifolds down to make all the final mods and re machined the flange angles. Had to pull 4 degrees off in order to get hood clearance. Looks better too.

 

I have to move the TPS to #5. On #6 it's too close to the header tube.

 

At this point I'm transferring the manifold and header over to the mock up head so I can start finalizing the boss arrangements. After everything's good to go it's time to goop.

 

And oh, I'm supposed to make a living while all this is going on!

 

Derek

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