Tony D Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 Glass Bead it and coat it with alodine. I went through extended fabrication on a copy of the HKS Surge Tank back in the 80's. Nice tank. Didn't use the sloped front end, as my entry was in a different place. Cardboard mockup seemed to fit well enough... At idle, after a few launches I noticed a crack in my paint, as well as an annoying 'knock knock knock'... Thought it was the compressor bypass valve popping, nope. Saw paint rubbed off the bottom of the hood. Noticed paint on the frontmost corner of the surge box---you know, the one I didn't put a tapered front end on? Hmmm, the box fit with...damn. Mikuini Manifold off, Cannon Manifold back on. Scratch $369.65, stick it in the shed. MORAL OF THE STORY: Tie your engine down with a reaction strap or bar. The engine will move more than you think under power and braking and the last thing you want is your funnel forced hard against the hood causing deformation or worse yet cracking something off that ends up getting sucked in when the filter pops out. How much clearance is 'adequate'? My VW Bus has a deformed washer hanging by a bit of fishing line to remind me not to rush during engine reassembly...ever! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Posted January 29, 2009 Author Share Posted January 29, 2009 Will this give enough clearance when the engine rocks when it's running (loading / unloading the engine) ? Nigel I hope so! I've got about 1/2" clearance and I plan to run some sort of torque strap. Derek that looks fantastic! Keep up the great work. I'll have to come down to see it in person. I'm dreaming about firing it up towards the end of next week. Maybe a good time for a club meeting! Tie your engine down with a reaction strap or bar. The engine will move more than you think under power and braking and the last thing you want is your funnel forced hard against the hood causing deformation or worse yet cracking something off that ends up getting sucked in when the filter pops out. How much clearance is 'adequate'? Tony you have to wait longer to comment. That way at least some of this stuff will seem like my idea! Then again I could always say great minds..... Busting arse right now to try and get enough stuff ready to carve for next week so the machines will be working and I'll be working on the car. I'm thinking slow feed rates will be the order of the day! That way I'll have less interruptions. Still don't have the thermocouples for the EGT yet so I have no idea what kind of well to machine. Derek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daeron Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 I'm thinking slow feed rates will be the order of the day! That way I'll have less interruptions. That gave me rather a chuckle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daeron Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 I'm thinking slow feed rates will be the order of the day! That way I'll have less interruptions. That gave me rather a chuckle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daeron Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 I'm thinking slow feed rates will be the order of the day! That way I'll have less interruptions. That gave me rather a chuckle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
williamb82 Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 Glass Bead it and coat it with alodine. I went through extended fabrication on a copy of the HKS Surge Tank back in the 80's. Nice tank. Didn't use the sloped front end, as my entry was in a different place. Cardboard mockup seemed to fit well enough... At idle, after a few launches I noticed a crack in my paint, as well as an annoying 'knock knock knock'... Thought it was the compressor bypass valve popping, nope. Saw paint rubbed off the bottom of the hood. Noticed paint on the frontmost corner of the surge box---you know, the one I didn't put a tapered front end on? Hmmm, the box fit with...damn. Mikuini Manifold off, Cannon Manifold back on. Scratch $369.65, stick it in the shed. MORAL OF THE STORY: Tie your engine down with a reaction strap or bar. The engine will move more than you think under power and braking and the last thing you want is your funnel forced hard against the hood causing deformation or worse yet cracking something off that ends up getting sucked in when the filter pops out. How much clearance is 'adequate'? My VW Bus has a deformed washer hanging by a bit of fishing line to remind me not to rush during engine reassembly...ever! was the one you copied like this? or like this? reason i ask is one is for the z and one for the supra but i dont know which is which. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 Second one is for the Supra. Blue one is SECOND GENERATION HKS Surge Tank. The one I copied was FIRST GENERATION (circa 1984)... The yen had just taken the surge against the dollar, and what was $500 now was $1000... And I had the time, tools, and inclination to reinvent the wheel! Almost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joela Posted January 31, 2009 Share Posted January 31, 2009 This is fantastic work. Well done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted January 31, 2009 Share Posted January 31, 2009 okay, hey I keep thinking about the bling show car deal , sure I see your point, I wasn't thinking too much shiney shiney, but I guess cleaning it all up will really make the difference. oh that's a good idea about the 90 for the pcv tube. Awe, back to the mockup head huh? bummer, well hopefully you'll get it back on the car this weekend. can't wait. so what's next? just a few tweaks then install. are you going to have to make any changes to get the tps mounted on a different tb? it sounds like you've got a pretty good handle on things. you're got the timing ring already for the EDIS, you've got the MAP, the TPS, O2, what am I missing, on you MS setup. you already said you were making your harness, and I assume you've got your MS already, oh temp sensor... phar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Posted February 7, 2009 Author Share Posted February 7, 2009 It's been slow going but I'm plugging along. Everything seems to take forever. Or at least a lot longer than I figured! Here's what I got finished. Made thermo wells for EGT sensors and welded them in the header. Stripped down the manifolds and welded on the new TPS bosses. made a throttle cable bracket and welded it to the manifold. Drill and tap for the PCV valve. DAG 213 the throttle bores. Assemble shafts and butterflies Dag them and bake at 350 for an hour. Treat the manifolds with Alodine. Run the vacuum syncro lines 2 or 3 times until I get something I like. Run out of vacuum line. Wire up injector clips. Here's some latest pics. I've decided to mount the vacuum log on the fender well and run the lines and injection harness straight over. There just wasn't enough real estate on the fire wall for everything PCV valve is working out well. I have to section the stock hose to fit but it won't be a big deal. Here you can see the Throttle cable bracket and TPS. No vacuum lines yet on this side. The cable will run over to an arm that's on the empty shaft on #4 Next it's surge tank and fuel line installation. Derek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted February 7, 2009 Share Posted February 7, 2009 I think I just violated myself to your pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Posted February 7, 2009 Author Share Posted February 7, 2009 I think I just violated myself to your pictures. I'll take that as a compliment! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted February 7, 2009 Share Posted February 7, 2009 Lol:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted February 7, 2009 Share Posted February 7, 2009 Looks great Derek. One issue I see is the wire sleeving. Unless you are running a heat shield, that stuff will melt so close to the header. Also, the TPS may not be able to take the heat. I would take Tony's advice and mount the TPS on the gas pedal or somewhere else in the linkage. Or, don't run one. You can use MAP base enrichment. I would eliminate all wires from under the manifold. Or you can get some of that high temp wire Sleeving: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Posted February 7, 2009 Author Share Posted February 7, 2009 Looks great Derek. One issue I see is the wire sleeving. Unless you are running a heat shield, that stuff will melt so close to the header. Also, the TPS may not be able to take the heat. I would take Tony's advice and mount the TPS on the gas pedal or somewhere else in the linkage. Or, don't run one. You can use MAP base enrichment. I would eliminate all wires from under the manifold. Or you can get some of that high temp wire Sleeving: Here's how I see it happening: Whats that smell? Why is it running rough? Where is that smoke coming from? I have 1/2" silica blanket that I use in my kilns. You can hold a torch against it and it barely get's hot on the other side. I plan on having that between the wires and the headers underneath the web of the manifold where you can't see it. The sleeving is a high temp version. As soon as I get it running I'll be monitoring the heat situation. If it becomes a problem then I'll reach underneath cut the wires and run everything on top. I'm too far into it not to give it a try. It just looks so clean with everything underneath. Derek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Posted February 7, 2009 Author Share Posted February 7, 2009 Made some good progress today! As usual Tony was right on the money about the glass beading and Alodine. That's the same valve cover and water outlet that was in the previous shots. The finish is exactly what I was looking for. Clean but bling free. I really hope I can keep the wires below the manifold. It's such a clean look. And of course I forgot to put the center link on the linkage for the shots. I think the oil cap is going to need some attention! Art shot 1 Art shot 2 Which looks strikingly similar to this historic photo! Now I didn't set out to copy Bob Sharps turbo manifold but it kind of worked out that way! After I started designing my manifold I posted some early renderings on ClassicZ. Someone directed me to a post on the atlantic forum about a manifold they were trying to build. This was one of the pictures they had posted. I perused the thread and promptly forgot all about it. The other night I was revisiting some of the early posts and decided to have another look at the thread and saw that shot so figured I'd have a little fun. I'm in no way comparing my manifold to Bob Sharp! But it's nice that it has the right feel for the era. Here's the unedited shot which I really like. I'm on a roll baby!!! Oh and I will be fixing that rats nest of wires at the battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garvice Posted February 7, 2009 Share Posted February 7, 2009 I reckon you could make some money selling prints of those photos. I particuarly like the Art Photo 2 (Looks like I picked up an old magazine) and Art Photos 1 is also really nice, would look cool with the engine in focus and the engine bay blured. Would look great as a A1 photo on my Garage wall. Also think it would look great as a black and white. Now, onto the rest. I like the wires on the bottom, very clean looking. I don't like them coming out to the fender, but it isn't my design and I understand your motivation. (Your choice and so far you have been making great choices, so don't make me hinder you, it is just my preference). I love the glass beading on the valve cover. Very sexy, very sophisticated. (I have always like matt finished metal over super shiny metal). Were you able to do the Alodine finish your self (Just been reading up on it, sounds like an interesting finish compared to anodizing)? All in all, great work derek. I don't know what else to say, "I'm Jealous". EDIT: Just looking back at your photos again. I didn't realise that you already had the injector wired hooked up! I didn't even see them the first 50 times I looked at your photos. That is super clean. Much better then my original idea. WOW! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daeron Posted February 8, 2009 Share Posted February 8, 2009 Wal-mart sells small cans of cheapo spraypaint, IIRC its a primarily blue label. ~5 ounce can. There is a metallic silver paint that would match the coloration of the manifold and valve cover etc. that you might just be able to use on the brake/clutch hydraulic reservoir caps to make them match. I stumbled across it (I will look in Wally World next time I am there to see if I can find more specific info) and made a special note of how close the color was to "rough polished" aluminum (which is how *I* think of the look you achieved, however much bling the phrase may or may not imply.) I'm out of compliments. I can't think of anything that isn't repeating myself. Its CRAZY how many tiny little chores crop up here at what seems to be the "end game," but don't lose your patience and rush anything you may regret later. As much as we all await each update with bated breath, there's no pressure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Posted February 8, 2009 Author Share Posted February 8, 2009 I reckon you could make some money selling prints of those photos. I particuarly like the Art Photo 2 (Looks like I picked up an old magazine) and Art Photos 1 is also really nice, would look cool with the engine in focus and the engine bay blured. Would look great as a A1 photo on my Garage wall. Also think it would look great as a black and white. Now, onto the rest. I like the wires on the bottom, very clean looking. I don't like them coming out to the fender, but it isn't my design and I understand your motivation. (Your choice and so far you have been making great choices, so don't make me hinder you, it is just my preference). I love the glass beading on the valve cover. Very sexy, very sophisticated. (I have always like matt finished metal over super shiny metal). Were you able to do the Alodine finish your self (Just been reading up on it, sounds like an interesting finish compared to anodizing)? All in all, great work derek. I don't know what else to say, "I'm Jealous". EDIT: Just looking back at your photos again. I didn't realise that you already had the injector wired hooked up! I didn't even see them the first 50 times I looked at your photos. That is super clean. Much better then my original idea. WOW! Thanks Garvice. I really tried to make the vacuum log work on the firewall but it really wasn't cutting it for me. Although it fit it was so close to #6 stack that it really muddied up (warning art term ahead) the negative space. Now I have a clear definition between the stack and firewall. Alodine is just a brush on hose off chemical treatment. I actually had some in stock under duponts 226S converter. The company who makes Alodine also has one that's clear. Wal-mart sells small cans of cheapo spraypaint, IIRC its a primarily blue label. ~5 ounce can. There is a metallic silver paint that would match the coloration of the manifold and valve cover etc. that you might just be able to use on the brake/clutch hydraulic reservoir caps to make them match. I stumbled across it (I will look in Wally World next time I am there to see if I can find more specific info) and made a special note of how close the color was to "rough polished" aluminum (which is how *I* think of the look you achieved, however much bling the phrase may or may not imply.)Hi DaeronChrome is bling flat aluminum is not! I'd like to know what that paint is. Looking at how sad the manifold makes my engine compartment I'm going to have to do a little detailing. I'm out of compliments. I can't think of anything that isn't repeating myself. Its CRAZY how many tiny little chores crop up here at what seems to be the "end game," but don't lose your patience and rush anything you may regret later. As much as we all await each update with bated breath, there's no pressure. I hear ya. I'm not posting this stuff to get petted by you guys anymore. I know your all behind me 100 percent and every one has been really supportive. How many times can you post "this thing is awsome"! I can't believe how long the details have taken. Although I've done a fair amount of prototype work I'm still surprised at how long the details have taken on this. But of course I'm usually billing some one by the hour so it has more of a warm fuzzy feeling. I'm usually a 90 percenter when I do stuff like this. That's just my nature. I'm really trying to make this at least a 92. Derek Oh and look I finally have an avatar! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted February 8, 2009 Share Posted February 8, 2009 This may seem like a small thing, but, are you going to vid so we can all here the trupets resound with throttle cracking? Please,,,,,,could you remove the fan? It might kill the experiece too much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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