choice of engine swap?

[socal73HS30]

I spun a rod bearing last month in my 240z, and now that i have it all apart, i'm debating what i should do with the car. there are so many interesting options to do. I don't have the most money in the world, so im not talking about a super-engine(roughly stock as the engine comes), but of the following options, which would you pick? And tell me why you would?

 

L28et

 

RB26dett

 

2jz-gte

 

LS1

 

3.1 Stroker

 

High-compression L28 (this is what was in it, was nice)

[zmaster]

I would go with the rb26dett engine, but thats just me.

 

Right now I am leaning towards the rb26dett with the 5 speed manual rb25det transmission. Why because the stock internals can withstand up to 600HP, nitrous, and up to 25psi of boost. here is a link to the questions, and answers I have asked about the rb26dett engine. I hope this helps. Do your research on this engine, the rb26dett engines are always on ebay, and you could trade, or sell the rb26dett tranny that you get with it if it comes with the engine. Try and get the engine with the complete engine wiring harness attatched to it still (makes it easier to wire in the new car). so far the engine trans together with ecu, and wiring harness costs a little under 4,000.00 dollars.

 

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=134060&highlight=rb+engine

[PanzerAce]

If you are short on money, I would say an L28et build, as the parts will be far easier to come by, and you don't even need to change the motor mounts.

[Clifton]

If money is an issue and if the swapped engine will be left pretty much stock, I would keep it L28. A stock internal L28 can handle the same boost a stock internal RB26 will take. Yes an rb will make more power at the same boost but. If you are set on swapping and going to keep a swapped engine stock, I would do an LS. No point in putting in an RB26 and running stock turbos, inj, boost, ect.

[Gollum]

If the LS1 is really in the budget, and you want that kind of power level it offers (400-550 without force induction) then it might be one of the more economical ways to go.

 

I like the RB and 2JZ but I'm not a fan of how heavy the inline 6 motors are, though in the long run that doesn't matter so much if you're going to be doing a lot of hardcore suspension tuning.

 

Between the 2JZ and RB I'd pick the 2JZ, just because there's a lot more options for parts here in the USA for them and the OEM parts tend to be a bit cheaper.

 

But if you're staying in the sub 350hp ballpark I'd just go L28ET. Pretty darn cheap HP for those levels.

 

LS1 still has them all beat for overall balance though. Affordable aftermarket upgrades. Just a cam can really make them come alive, and they're getting cheaper by the day.

[Phantom]

The key here would be to identify how much "I don't have the most money in the world,..." really equates out to. All these options cost and it only goes up depending how much of the work you can do yourself. The problem with an HP upgrade is then you need to look at chassis strengthening, suspension, brakes, etc., to keep a balanced car.

If you can put a range on what you can spend then you'll get much better advice.

[socal73HS30]

The key here would be to identify how much "I don't have the most money in the world,..." really equates out to. All these options cost and it only goes up depending how much of the work you can do yourself. The problem with an HP upgrade is then you need to look at chassis strengthening, suspension, brakes, etc., to keep a balanced car.

If you can put a range on what you can spend then you'll get much better advice.

 

This swap wouldn't be happening right away. i'm only 21 years old, this Z is my first and last car. So, i've got the budget of a young kid in college working 2 jobs. I'm rebuilding the L28 the car had in it anwway so that i can learn, and know what to do, and how to do it.

 

It's not so much that i'm going to be going out and buying an engine now and starting. I've got to do the research first, and all these engines look like reasonable fun options to put in a z. i included the "budget" so that hopefully i wouldnt get someone telling me to completely race an RB engine and turbo the crap out of it up to 800+ horse.

 

So, lemme rephrase. If you had $10k budget, what would you do? that budget has to extend to everything to get the engine in, mounted, and operational.

[zmaster]

I think that would just be enought to buy the rb26dett engine, and trans. there should be enough left over for the custom made driveshaft, and enough for some steel to make your own engine, and transmission mounts. I hope you have a welder, if not they sell cheap welders at menards, and lowes.

 

A custom driveshaft is needed, for when you set the engine where you want it, and if you use the srtock engine mounts on the car the engine will be too far foward, and you will have to mount the radiator on the other side of the core support. This is the information that I have gathered on my own so far for the rb26dett swap

[ktm]

You need to do more than simply install a higher horsepower engine with that $10k:

 

1) Suspension

2) Fuel System - I am assuming the L28 in the car was NOT fuel injected nor was your fuel system upgraded for FI. To convert a 240z to run FI (properly), you need to upgrade your feed line from the tank, electric FI pump, FI fuel filter, tank modifications, FPR, fuel pressure gauge, etc.

3) Exhaust

4) Engine management, only applicable to FI.

 

If your L28 was carb'd, the least expensive solution is to rebuild the L28, and for a kid in college this is the route I would take.

[Gollum]

I'm with ktm on this. And this is how I'd personally split it up.

 

10k budget. Divide by two for engine sub budget

 

5k for engine swap. Divide by two for expected budget for engine + trans.

 

2.5k You can spend that on getting an engine + trans mated together. Use the other 2.5k for misc parts you'll end up needing and misc performance upgrades you can't resist. Larger radiator and the like fall into this budget. If it's engine/trans related in any way if falls here (that includes modified/custom driveshaft)

 

Then you've got 5k to play with. Split this 5k in half to get you suspension/brakes/wheels/tires budget. 2.5k won't get you a ton here. But you should be able to get a rear disc conversion and toyta brake upgrade coupled with some tokico adjsutables and higher spring rates. Could that with some slightly wider rims to fit 245 wide tires or so and you're set. Might have to dip into remainder funds from the other areas to complete this area as it would be the tightest to get by on 2.5k I think.

 

The remainder 2.5k needs to go into chassis and other misc stuff. Ktm mentioned the fuel system, might as well revamp that entire system. You might even get away with putting your exhaust into this budget. Also consider ron tyler's diff mount, R200 if you don't have one, things like that. If there's any rewiring that needs to happen it can be put into this budget. Guages might as well go here to.

 

If somehow there's money left over I'd get a roll cage made.

 

Keep in mind this isn't a guide. Just how I'd personally spend MY money if it were me.

 

Oh, and we didn't even get into chassis improvements/restoration/repair etc.

 

I agree with ktm, if it's a carb'ed car, leave it carbed and just rebuild the L28. Much cheaper in the long run and you'll keep a lot more of the money you put into it. If you put 4k into the car you might see 2 back in value. If you put 10k into you'll be lucky to see 5k of it back. If you NEVER plan on selling it and you know you'll never NEED to sell it for finantial reasons then this doesn't matter now does it?

[socal73HS30]

You need to do more than simply install a higher horsepower engine with that $10k:

 

1) Suspension

2) Fuel System - I am assuming the L28 in the car was NOT fuel injected nor was your fuel system upgraded for FI. To convert a 240z to run FI (properly), you need to upgrade your feed line from the tank, electric FI pump, FI fuel filter, tank modifications, FPR, fuel pressure gauge, etc.

3) Exhaust

4) Engine management, only applicable to FI.

 

If your L28 was carb'd, the least expensive solution is to rebuild the L28, and for a kid in college this is the route I would take.

 

suspension is where i like it. i already have tokico illumina adjustable shocks in all 4 corners, toyota truck brake upgrade, steel braided brake lines, ground control stiff springs, polyurethane bushings everywhere, techno toy tuning TC rods, newer Dunlop DZ101 tires on 7x15 JDM 3 piece wheels, 1" front sway bar, datsun competition .75" rear sway bar

 

yeah all the other things would need to be upgraded. most engine swaps already come with the ecm and fuel management control, along with the wiring harness etc. so headers/exhaust, fuel pumps/hoses, custom intake plumping, turbo plumbing/intercooler, etc.

[Gollum]

Sweet, now were' getting somewhere.

 

So if you were going to spend 10k on just an engine swap (meaning engine and all the parts requred to make it work such as fuel system, exhaust system, and driveline changes) then it's a different ball game.

 

Forget the L28ET imo, unless you want to keep your budget tight and have little room to grow.

 

And between the 2JZ and the RB26 I'd pick the 2JZ every day of the week. The parts are easier to come by and the motors proven to have MORE potential in the long run, and the stock longblocks push nearly identical HP numbers. The RB is still good, and if you were in australia or japan I'd say it's a direct toss up of choice. Here in the USA I'd only suggest the RB if you were a big nissan fan and wanted to keep the motor nissan.

 

10k could get you one SWEET LSX swap though. LS2 would be easily doable with a T56 and you'd be able to reach 400+ wheel HP and still get decent gas milage. You'd have torque availble at any RPM and it would scream like a demon.

 

So the choice comes back to the debate that many here go back and forth between. Small displacement force induction, or large displacement torque?

 

Nobody can make that choice for you, and it's pointless to debate on which is "better", as all of us here know "there is no best".

[Midnight-280Z]

With whatever engine you are going for don't forget about the drivetrain....The RB26 and 2JZ and some other engines can brake stuff because of the power..I'm personally will be going with a RB25 DET NEO once my back order parts come in...If you are on a budget L28ET is the way to go. You can get good power out of them and when fine tuned they run pretty well. My friend has a 73 240Z with the l28 motor running 13psi...Pretty fast and his supspension is really sweet too. Whenever doing a swap take fabrication, use of vehicle, performace goals, budget, and your personal likings into consideration. I rather wait a little and be happy with the end result then be disappointed because I wanted to save a few dollars here and there.

[SHO-Z]

I would contact the local Z club and find a L28 that someone has removed for a swap. I have seen several in the Phoenix area for $100. Install that in the car and tinker around with the other engine. Almost any type of high performance engine will require hi test gas and I think you need to keep in on the cheap side until you graduate.

[JMortensen]

I would NOT completely redo the fuel system. I just bought all the stuff to redo mine (fuel cell, fittings, new pump and filters, regulator, etc) and I spent about $800, and that was buying all the cheap stuff. I bought hose barbs and rubber hose, not AN fittings, and saved about $300 by doing so.

 

For FI you can run the stock tank with a small surge tank (search it, there are some good threads on surge tanks). You can buy one or make your own, they're easy to do, and then you don't have to worry about a fuel cell. My fuel cell, by the way, is probably 20 lbs HEAVIER than the stock tank.

 

For my $$$ V8 is the way to go. Easy to find parts for, cheap to make big power, and enough people have done it that you won't be struggling if you hit a stumbling block along the way.

[cockerstar]

My vote goes for a TT LS1, but it's closely followed by an RB26dett

[socal73HS30]

i finished measuring everything and the block is going to have to be bored from piston wear. the crank is also going to have to have the lobes straightened and polished. so, if im gonna have to do that, i might as well have it done to a vo7 stroker crank instead of my stock l28. i found a good deal on one online.

that way i can get another job over the summer and really do a nice swap when the time comes... and as someone else said, i can play with the stroker while i build the engine in the garage.

 

as far as engine, im kinda leaning to a l28et, maybe with itbs. have sorta a nostalgic look, decent power with moderate boost, and there is a lot more knowledge out there about the l-series than a 2jz or rb swap.

[ktm]

yeah all the other things would need to be upgraded. most engine swaps already come with the ecm and fuel management control, along with the wiring harness etc.

 

You really need to do some more research as this is not the case.

 

I would NOT completely redo the fuel system. I just bought all the stuff to redo mine (fuel cell' date=' fittings, new pump and filters, regulator, etc) and I spent about $800, and that was buying all the cheap stuff. I bought hose barbs and rubber hose, not AN fittings, and saved about $300 by doing so.

[/quote']

 

Jon, you would make this statement regarding a 240z? The surge tank addresses the fuel tank issue, but not the feed fuel line diameter. It all depends on your horsepower goals.

 

You probably save a buttload more than $300 by not using AN fittings. I just picked up 2 Goodridge 90 degree fittings for my coolant setup, and each fitting was $35.

 

I have 7 AN fittings on my fuel system and 4 AN fittings on my turbo coolant system. This does not include the adapters (BSPT to AN, NPT to AN, male to male AN, etc.) I probably have over $450 in AN fittings alone and another $140 in SS hose.

[Midnight-280Z]

as far as engine, im kinda leaning to a l28et, maybe with itbs. have sorta a nostalgic look, decent power with moderate boost, and there is a lot more knowledge out there about the l-series than a 2jz or rb swap.

 

There is a lot of good stuff here about the RB swap use the seach function and FAQs not to mention stickys. I had the L28et originally before I blew my motor. Here's my reason why I decided RB25DET NEO instead of rebuilding my L28ET

 

Newer engine (At least by 10 years, in my case about 15+)

Newer technololgy

Reliablility

Dual Overhead Cams

Parts availablility

Power gains

Rareness <---Big Factor

Personal goals

 

Although an ITB L28ET would be SWEET. Don't really see one of those everyday. With the money you save dump it into supsension. Good luck with your project and which ever way you decide to go just make sure you are happy.

 

Side Note-

L28ET= 180bhp 6500 Redline

RB25DET= 250bhp 8000 Redline? (Still can't confirm this)

RB25DET NEO= 280bhp 8000 Redline? (Still can't confirm)

[PanzerAce]

But who leaves things stock?