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Project VQ is Underway!


EMWHYR0HEN

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Two thoughts. Soft trans mount and near solid front mounts may put a lot of stress on the front mounts as the rear moves around. Second is did you add a sleeve inside the poly front mounts? If not how are you going to keep the mounting bolts tight since you cant really torque the bolts down?

 

Cameron

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Thanks Dave. When you get in the zone crazy things happen!

 

 

Cameron, The difference in the mounts also crossed my mind. I figured since the engine isnt going to rotate much neither is the trans since they are one unit hanging there. However, I may add a poly trans mount soon after I get it going. I didnt add a sleeve to the poly engine "padding" or that would have made it completly solid. I'm using locktight and a jam nut to hold the bolt in place.

 

I'm glad someone's paying attention to the small details in my build besides me.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Wiring update:

 

I've pulled all the needed electronics and wiring from my donor car. It was such a PITA! Now I know why j-yards can charge so much for that stuff.

 

Anyway, I took the engine room harness, main harness (dash), and everything that attached to the harnesses like the Body Control Modual, A/C amp, ignition switch w/ key... etc.

 

Now that I have everything sorted out it looks like this is going to be a straightforward wiring job. Basically I'm going to run all the 350Z harnesses on my car so that all I have to do is connect all the harnesses, grounds, and connect the battery.

 

Ive decieded to run the dash harness under my dash, engine room harness inside the cabin, BCM and fuse panel on top of the trans tunnel, and ECM on the passenger kickpanel.

 

Also, the 350Z gas pedel can be mounted on the stock pedal mount. I will have to make a box to make it come back more towards the seat but it lines up pretty well.

 

 

 

IMG_20091.JPG

 

IMG_2020.JPG

 

 

This is where i'm going to mount the relay boxes. It makes it much easier for me because all I have to do is extent the battery cables about a foot.

IMG_2017.JPG

 

IMG_2035.JPG

 

The 350Z ignitioin switch mounts nicely on the steering colum. However, the locking mechanism doesnt line up. IMG_2036.JPG

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Man you are gettin to it... I better start bustin my ass!

 

If you start looking through your electrical schematics youll find you only need oh about 20 of those wires, you can dump about 20 lbs of harnesses over what you have there lol.

 

Anyhow, it would be sweet to hook everything up so you could take full advantage of the BCM, keyless entry, power windows, door looks, etc, etc

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Your not going to beleive this but, the last 3 pictures are of the harnesses already reduced to only what I need.

 

Heres what I removed. Just goes to show you how heavy these harnesses were.

 

IMG_2040.JPG

 

I forgot to mention that I'm getting rid of all my old s30 wiring and using all of the 350Z components. Everything important uses relays and has newer version fuses. However, I'm only going to be using the headlights, taillights, brake lights, and turn signal lights.

 

Speaking of using the BCM I met a guy at the MSA show a few years back that had an entire 350Z platform on his s30... he had like an s200 front end...funny looking thing. Anyway, I remember he did use all the functions of the 350z from wipers to keyless entry. At the time I was thinking why and wow that must have been hard. Now that i'm in this deep I'm realizing that it's as easy as plugging the components onto the harness.

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Another update:

 

School's just around the corner so i'm trying to get all of my fabricating out of the way already. Anyway, I mounted the pedal with 2x2x 16 gauge sq. tubing. It turns out that the everything mounts perfect on the stock mount with the 2x2 sq. tube including the stock pedal stopper.

 

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IMG_20431.JPG

 

 

Then I added a 1'' od bar on the t/c brackets. Not exactly a crossmember but will definatly help stiffen the frame rails in that large open space.

 

Last, I cut a hole on the fire wall to clear a hose and sensor on the rear coolant tube.

 

IMG_20461.JPG

 

IMG_20481.JPG

 

IMG_20491.JPG

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Myron,

 

Given how fast you work, you've probably already done this, but would it be worth it to tie the engine mounts straight down to as close to the 1" OD x-member on the tc mount as possible?

 

That way the weight of the engine is not only trying to rotate the rails, which tries to rotate the tc mount which tries to rotate the rod, but its weight will be placing more of a sheer force on the x-member/tc box joint. This would seem to me to be stronger it will reduce the flexing of the rails/tc joint along the axis of the joint.

 

Dunno, someone with more of a clue will hopefully chip in.

 

Dave

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Thanks Pete.

 

Dave, In order for me to completely mount my engine on my t/c mounts the easiest thing to do would be make new motor mounts on the engine itself. I do agree that mounting the engine on the t/c brackets will make it more of a crossmember but, I feel more comfortable mounting my engine on the frame rather than a bracket that holds the front suspension.

 

I also agree that in my current setup the engine wants to twist the frame rails. However, my frame rails are made from 2.5x 1/8 square tubing unlike the stock spot welded sheet metal. On top of that, I have plenty of frame/strut tower reinforcing bars so the whole frame twisting deal is the least of my worries.

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Yeah, it probably wouldn't make any difference, I wasn't suggesting you refabricate anything, or shift the mounts or anything, just that you add a piece of tube from the rear side of the engine mount at its innermost point, down to the piece of tube you just added. This would seem to provide a vertical load straight from the mount to the x-member for very little effort.

 

More than likely complete overkill and not worth the weight/effort, just occurred to me so I thought I'd mention it. :)

 

Dave

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Yeah, it probably wouldn't make any difference, I wasn't suggesting you refabricate anything, or shift the mounts or anything, just that you add a piece of tube from the rear side of the engine mount at its innermost point, down to the piece of tube you just added. This would seem to provide a vertical load straight from the mount to the x-member for very little effort.

 

More than likely complete overkill and not worth the weight/effort, just occurred to me so I thought I'd mention it. :)

 

Dave

 

I agree. I wanted to put the bar as close to the mounts as possible but the stupid engine was in the way :mrgreen:

 

The bar runs right under that groove on the sub- oil pan where the rack and pinion went on the 350Z.

IMG_20521.JPG

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Automakers spend $$ millions developing engine mounts. The basics points are NVH as everyone mentioned. But mounts are also created to transmit the G-force smoothly through the powertrain in harmony with the designed engineered body stiffness and to the ground. Each mount has a purpose. I recommend keeping the original designed engine + trans mounts but beef up the surrounding body rigidity.

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