grumpyvette Posted April 19, 2009 Share Posted April 19, 2009 (edited) http://www.grizzly.com/products/Shop-Fox-Vertical-Mill-9-x-49-/T20828 the more I shop around for a used one the more total ,rusted, junk IM finding, so talk to me about tooling and what to look for here, IM not exactly unfamiliar with a milling machine as IVE used several in other guys shops. but IM always open to learn new things or take advice. I want to mostly modify EFI intakes and make brackets, make a few custom parts, etc. so I don,t need any CNC controls etc Edited April 19, 2009 by grumpyvette Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted April 19, 2009 Share Posted April 19, 2009 grumpyvette: Looking for the same exact thing. Went to a used machine shop equipment seller and looked at two Bridgeport mills. One with and one without a Digital Read Out (DRO). After thinking about it, if the DRO does not have mechanical sensors then I would like to have same on my mill. I have purchased a band saw from Grizzly and it is pretty good. The mill in the link looks very good. After that, I also want metal lathe. Grew up with one of these in my garage owned by my brother. Was very handy to have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Posted April 19, 2009 Share Posted April 19, 2009 looks pretty good for the amount of milling your going to be doing. The 2400 rpm spindle speed will make it tough to get a good finish on aluminum but it's workable. An old mill is a tricky buy. sometimes problems don't show up until you start working the machine. But then it's too late you already own it. Derek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators RTz Posted April 19, 2009 Administrators Share Posted April 19, 2009 An old mill is a tricky buy. sometimes problems don't show up until you start working the machine. True. One rule of thumb is the table... specifically its condition. I've found the condition of the table often coincides with the care/treatment the rest of the machine has seen. A machinist that doesn't care about the table 'prolly doesn't care much for anything else. That said, my table is absolutely pristine.... and I treat the rest of the machine with the same respect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad-ManQ45 Posted April 20, 2009 Share Posted April 20, 2009 You will spend at least as much on tooling... And I think you are making a wise decision in getting a new one from a quality importer. If you go to one or two yahoo groups for milling and a few other sites, you could probably hook up with people that could evaluate condition, but once again, the pickings are pretty slim, unless you get lucky after someone else wasn't.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roostmonkey Posted April 20, 2009 Share Posted April 20, 2009 I keep hearing theres a glut of used equipment.A customer of mine was relocating their machine shop from one building to another to both consoladate the operation and to downsize.I get a call to come and see if theres anything I want before it goes in a dumpster for scrap. I took a look and couldnt believe they were throwing this equipment away. I was told they could get more money scrapping than the used dealers would pay them.The wharehouses were already full.I took a beautiful Bridgeport, a lathe, a huge compressor, a stainless steel parts washer and a mess of other tools.All they wanted for the stuff was to be taken out to diner.I felt guilty for a while but I'm over it now.Any one need a $4k parts washer? I dont. Ron is right about the bed condition being a tell tale, but even if the bed looks good, make sure the ways are tight in both directions. If the bed can move in any direction its not supposed to, holding tight tolerances will be impossible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad-ManQ45 Posted April 20, 2009 Share Posted April 20, 2009 Big difference living in the industrialized areas of the North versus living in the South... This type of machinery is far less common down here, but a mainstay for manufacturing up North.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeatrpi Posted April 20, 2009 Share Posted April 20, 2009 Grump, There are machinist forums out there... http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/ http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/index.php (mod is strict, you must state that you're into manufacturing to be admitted membership) Side note - apparently Grizzly bought the South Bend name and plans to introduce (imported) versions of the popular lathes, with modern updates. http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/showthread.php?t=177783&page=2 ^^^ The owner of Grizzly seems to be an active member over there, which I suppose counts for something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waterjetguy Posted April 21, 2009 Share Posted April 21, 2009 Hey, true that on the table condition issue. There is a couple guys on ebay that I`ve had good luck with but he`s in so cal shipping would kill ya. If you do aluminum allot it pays to get cutters designed for alum. only get a indexable cutter with high shear cutters you will achieve a almost mirror finish even at the slower speeds of manual mills. Then some of them if you switch to steel you just change the insert type. If you chip a tip ,most of them have at least 2 sides to use no sharpening neede or even removing the holder . They are more money initially but really save time...and time IS money right?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted April 21, 2009 Share Posted April 21, 2009 Too bad you're on the wrong coast... as Roosty said, there is kind of a glut of this stuff now. I wanted a lathe, and ended up in a deal where I had to take the Bridgeport, 17X36 Milacron Lathe, a Trinco 48 Bead Blaster with media reclaimer, and a 20X20 Mezzanine! A mezzanine!!! I figured I would scrap the mezz and sell off the Mill, till my wife saw the mezz was constructed from pallet racking. Then she wanted it for storing stuff around the yard in different places. Whoodathunkit? And the Mill sits at the shop I bought it from, and they call me every so often wanting me to come pick it up. I threaten to return the trailer to them to park in their shop...and they decide the Mill takes up less space than 'the damn trailer'... I even tried to palm it off on John C...even he doesn't have the room! To paraphrase a Queen Song as my (second) mill sings: "Need somebody to love me, Need somebody to love me!" All I wanted it for was the R8 collett holder. I got everything else! LOL Anybody need a Bridgeport Mill in SoCal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roostmonkey Posted April 21, 2009 Share Posted April 21, 2009 Thats funny you mentioned a Mezzanine. I got a 32' X 24' with stairway, guard rails and 8' flourecent under lighting for the cost of disassembly and removal. I hired 3 of my employees to work under the table and in 8 hrs we had it down and palletized and back to my shop.I did some internet advertising and eventually sold it for $5k. They showed up with a flat bed, I loaded him up and off he went.This was from the same customer, they needed the space for the relocated machine shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted April 21, 2009 Author Share Posted April 21, 2009 (edited) http://www.grizzly.com/products/Shop-Fox-Vertical-Mill-9-x-49-/T20828 I just bought this, with my mechanical engineering back ground and experiance I doubt ILL get too far off course, but any hints or info about milling you guys want to add will be most helpful, your never in a position where you can,t learn more! Edited April 21, 2009 by grumpyvette Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexicoker Posted April 21, 2009 Share Posted April 21, 2009 Does it come with a DRO? If not, I would highly recommend getting one, unless you're only going to be doing extremely simple stuff. As for milling basics (I don't know what experience you have) -2 flute endmills for aluminum, 4 for steel -make sure you have a center-cutting endmill if you're going to be plunging. -if you're cutting with the side of the endmill, climb cutting will produce a nicer finish (your workpiece should be moving the same direction as the tip of the tool when its cutting) -start with slow feeds and speeds and move up from there. I always had the best luck cutting steel spinning the tool way slower than seemed appropriate. -carbide is awesome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted April 21, 2009 Author Share Posted April 21, 2009 (edited) PLEASE post all the basic info, tips etc. you can gentelmen because theres alot more guys reading this than just myself.Ive used several milling machines in the past but its been a couple years since the last time and I might have forgoten something, I never mind looking dumb, but I sure don,t like screwing something up thur lack of a simple bit of info OH! BTW I bought the keyed drill chuck that holds 5/8" or smaller arbors with the R8 arbor and the splash/drain pans and coolant pump, cutting oil, drain lines 6" vise for the table and a few other necessary basics Edited April 21, 2009 by grumpyvette Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsunlover Posted April 21, 2009 Share Posted April 21, 2009 Just to add to the climb cutting comment... Be sure you're not taking too heavy of a cut, and slightly lock the table, or one of several things can happen; 1- It will stall the machine, usually breaking/chiping your cutter, 2- the table can start 'walking' back and forth (you'll know it when it happens lol) as its cutting, leaving a TERRIBLE finish and also possibly breaking the cutter. Oh, and as for plunge milling, I usually just drill a pilot hole either way, cause it gives some clearance at the center of the tool for chips to get out. Alluminum especially can get gummed up and stick to the cutter quickly, and before you know it, snap your tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeatrpi Posted April 21, 2009 Share Posted April 21, 2009 Good idea to share info for anyone... If "you're" a novice like me, the MIT videos are a great introduction to a machine shop. There are three or four videos in the middle specifically for milling. http://techtv.mit.edu/genres/24-how-to/videos/142-machine-shop-1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted April 22, 2009 Author Share Posted April 22, 2009 thank you gentelmen thats very useful info IM sure many guys on the site will benefit from! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waddiejohn Posted June 8, 2009 Share Posted June 8, 2009 Maybe I should not be bringing this back to life, but I've not been active lately and saw this thread after tuning in again and trying to catch up. I'm surprized that nobody recommended using IPA for maching Aluminium. It keeps the material from galling and welding itself to the cutter and provides a very nice finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted June 8, 2009 Share Posted June 8, 2009 check out the fuller-tool-shop on ebay, it's a store that has a LOT of cool items. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators RTz Posted June 8, 2009 Administrators Share Posted June 8, 2009 I'm surprized that nobody recommended using IPA for maching Aluminium. I prefer to drink IPA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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