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I did just that and the distance between the inlet and outlet was 28.25" apart, so very close, and may be an option to consider for others.

 

I ended up going with a different fmic though, 12x20x3 core (27" total width) with the traditional endtanks like the one you posted and I'm just using 90* couplers to bring the openings through the radiator support openings like a lot of people do.

 

When you say 28.25 you are talking about the treadstone? On the website it says 28 and should fit perfect with 90* couplers (even if it is 28.25). Thanks for your input

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Do any of you guys that have already done FMIC installs happen to have the dimensions of the rad support, in particular the distance between the two openings everyone passed their piping through?

 

Im wondering if any of these ebay intercoolers with endtanks in this style:

 

http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CXR&Product_Code=IC0044-350&Category_Code=

 

happen to correspond with those openings to avoid using 90* couplers

 

 

i was wondering the same thing but i think im just going to spend my money on the treadstone tr8

 

http://www.treadstoneperformance.com/product.phtml?p=29&cat_key=63&prodname=TR8+Intercooler++500HP

 

the intercooler you posted looks like it would be close. The openings in the car on the inside edges are about 28.5 inches apart. May have to contact the manufacturer and see what the specs on those are.

 

 

I did just that and the distance between the inlet and outlet was 28.25" apart, so very close, and may be an option to consider for others.

 

I ended up going with a different fmic though, 12x20x3 core (27" total width) with the traditional endtanks like the one you posted and I'm just using 90* couplers to bring the openings through the radiator support openings like a lot of people do.

 

When you say 28.25 you are talking about the treadstone? On the website it says 28 and should fit perfect with 90* couplers (even if it is 28.25). Thanks for your input

 

 

Sorry for the confusion, I was referring to the first intercooler (CX Racing) i posted about, with the inlet/outlet facing back towards the car rather than to the sides. The distance between those inlets was 28.25", very close to the 28.5" distance between the radiator support openings.

 

The treadstone one should be fine w/ 90* couplers like you said, its nearly the same width as the one I ended up going with instead of the CX unit.

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  • 2 months later...

I'm very new to this whole turbo setup but could any of you guys maybe help me out on how you incorporated the afm in the system. I'm currently in the process of putting the setup on a N/A 77 280z and am very confused on how this is all supposed to fit. Thank you

 I just starting mine, engine is in, now trying to figure out where or how to mount or re-locate the AFM, Trouble with searching is all the pictures have expired.

Did anyone ever answer your question?

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  • 2 months later...

I just starting mine, engine is in, now trying to figure out where or how to mount or re-locate the AFM, Trouble with searching is all the pictures have expired.

Did anyone ever answer your question?

Not really the right thread for it. Probably why it went ignored. But this is how mine is it works very well... for now...

post-38288-0-13517400-1365913211_thumb.jpg

Edited by col10see
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  • 1 month later...

I'm just waiting on an AEM dry flow filter and I'll be finished plumbing mine up. I did run the cold side behind the radiator because the intercooler I was working with was easiest plumbed this way with a 2 1/4" in and 2 1/2" out. I ran 2" pipe for the hot side and 2 1/2" cold side. Combined with my .48 turbines t3, I believe this setup is going to make a very responsive and quick spooling system. Also note that I'm getting my air filter out of that hot ass engine bay. :) I stuck with a trusty ole blitz bov because the sound is hardly matched, in my opinion. Between this and I'm gonna try to pull off an unmuffled 3" exhaust, I plan on scaring all the v8 mustangs around here. Lol

post-31622-0-12794700-1368533427_thumb.jpg

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  • 4 months later...

Just finished up my intercooler install.

 

2.5" piping

GReddy RS BoV

CXRacing Intercooler (27"x12"x3")

Hallman Pro RX MBC

 

I can't weld, and the prices of welders in Vegas were not worth the trouble so I just bought an ebay piping kit and a few special couplers and bov pipe from silicone intakes.

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post-26144-0-46383500-1381625305_thumb.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

My original setup had 2" SS piping and an AiResearch intercooler:

 

DSC01751.JPG

 

 

The current setup uses 2.5" MS piping, and 450x300x76 FMIC:

 

DSC00396.JPG

 

 

I too swapped the hot/cold side plumbing in my second version.

The intercooler/plumbing changes saw an extra 3psi boost at the same WG duty-cycle, and allowed a 15kW increase via lower AIT's and the ability to lean out the mixture.

Just curious if you noticed a difference from 2 inch to 2.5 inch pipe.

 

My goal is 350 who with my setup and I found an equation in korky bells book maximum boost that suggests 2 inch would be sufficient for about 400hp while keeping velocity high and lag low. 2.25 should be good for almost 500hp.

 

I see a lot of people running 3 inch on here which is pretty much overkill for a l28et and also introduces plenty of lag.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Is there any issues or pitfalls or just plain annoyances with routing the piping under the motor?  I really like the cleanliness of the install and really declutters the TB "area".  And I imagine the turbine housing will have to be rotated? (stock turbo for now)  I have been wanting to re do my current setup and I was thinking 2.5" all around.

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^That's a great pic.

 

thank you. i was up there to verify that the engine was straight in the bay, and i liked how all of the hoses and piping looked. its a different perspective for sure.

Is there any issues or pitfalls or just plain annoyances with routing the piping under the motor?  I really like the cleanliness of the install and really declutters the TB "area".  And I imagine the turbine housing will have to be rotated? (stock turbo for now)  I have been wanting to re do my current setup and I was thinking 2.5" all around.

longer piping makes more boost response lag. piping should be as small as possible for your power goal, and as short as possible given what space you're working with. anyone who doesn't run a same-sided intercooler on an l28et is doing so purely for aesthetics, and sacrificeing theoretical performance in the process. not only that, but in my personal opinion, same sided intercooler looks so much more rad to me than a million miles of piping. and to top it off, anyone who is running the intake off of the turbo and through the core support for a "cold air" effect is wasting their time, sure the air is cooler, but its going straight into a super heater, then through an intercooler and then to the engine. i would be super excited to see someones iat datalogs that show the difference between a filter in the engine bay and one in front of the core support. i bet the difference is not even enough to begin to justify the work and clutter and tubing management.

 

/soapbox

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Yeah but with my current intake setup it would still be tough.  On my wrx (2.0L) I had a fairly large front mount with a decent amount of 2.5" tubing and it the lag wasn't terrible, I have found that a really good tune and proper turbo sizing can make a world of difference.  My main question is are there any interference issues with rotating the turbine housing and running underneath the oil pan.  I have heard that the wastegate would have to be modified but not sure if thats true or not.  

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Stretchnuts, 

Look on page 1, #6 for a clean same sided set up. It utilizes short pipe and leaves the engine uncluttered. This was how 240hoke had set it up and ran it at 26psi with meth injection. Not a direct answer at all to your question but a possible option instead.

post-736-0-67740700-1386820278_thumb.jpg

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Stretchnuts, 

Look on page 1, #6 for a clean same sided set up. It utilizes short pipe and leaves the engine uncluttered. This was how 240hoke had set it up and ran it at 26psi with meth injection. Not a direct answer at all to your question but a possible option instead.

 

This is exactly what I hope my intercooler setup will look like in like 2 years when I finally get all the stuff together for a turbo swap. I love the same-sided look! So clean!

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  • 5 months later...

Just finished up my intercooler install.

 

2.5" piping

GReddy RS BoV

CXRacing Intercooler (27"x12"x3")

Hallman Pro RX MBC

 

I can't weld, and the prices of welders in Vegas were not worth the trouble so I just bought an ebay piping kit and a few special couplers and bov pipe from silicone intakes.

This guy saved me some heartache.

 

My setup

 

-Stock 1jzvvt Inlet, outlet and TB locations

-2.5" Boost piping, 3" inlet piping

-Black silicone couplersrs

-27x12x3 CX racing Intercooler.  2.5" inlet and outlet  

-2.5" Elbows for intercooler (with this setup,  they are perfectly aligned with the fresh air vents in the core support, no modification needed)

-Various reducers and couplers to cope with the fact that literally EVERYTHING is a different size.  the only two that are uniform are the turbo inlet and the TB which are 2.75"

-Crappy blue 3" filter i had laying around

 

 

Total materials purchased

-24" Straight section of 2.5

-2.5" 180* mandrel bend x2

-18" straight section of 3"

-3" 180* mandrel bend

 

so far ive only used about half of the bends,  i probably could have gotten away with a shorter piece of 2.5 and only 1 bend,  but im glad i had the extra beaded sections

 

 

A disclaimer,  i cannot stand having millions of couplers,  i think it looks like shit,  so i broke out my tig welder and made these bitches solid,  unfortunately, my aluminum welding skills still require some work, so theyre not as pretty as i would like,  but for a pretty much first time,  theyre turning out well.  i will post pics of them completed when i have them finished up

 

1798691_10152852672019676_39170295888323

 

10172689_10152845266329676_3210684142929

 

 

 

10155318_10152845266259676_3617249212098

 

10313466_10152845266184676_3214163707325

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One thing I'd like to mention. Some consideration to air movement between the radiator and larger intercoolers is a must if you'd like the benefits to an efficient max lower temp system. Leaving large open areas to the left,right,top and bottom of the units without the installation of close-off ducting is not making best use of the system.
The coolest temps come from making sure as much free flowing air coming through the front of the car are being well ducted THROUGH the intercooler fins and then THROUGH the radiator fins as well. If there is no pressure forcing that air THROUGH these components, its just wasted around them and missing their targets or even creating buffeted air that hardly passes through at all!

I used the rolls of aluminum flashing from hardware stores. It comes in rolls varying in widths to suit most projects and can be easily hand formed on a bench and either riveted,epoxied or tack welded to hold strong. I shared this with a friend who had overheating issues with his turbo LS1 240-sx and it dropped his issue altogether and his intake temps along with it by a very large factor.

We did it by blocking off ANY voids in the front area where the radiator and IC where mounted firstly, then made walls completely around them so as to make one tube for the air to flow. With the aid of twin fans mounted in the space between the radiator and IC to quiet things some as well as look cleaner......its been working awesome for 10 years going now. Half inch foam strips were fashioned to seal off voids as needed. The self stick kind.

Cardboard templates are your friend to start off tight fitment.

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Welded aluminum piping for my toy

IMG_0242.jpg

A very good friend of mine that I worked with at our shop at the time welded up the piping for me- We wanted to use as few couplers as possible, so the pipes were a bit intricate/interesting.  Sadly I dont have a good close up shot off the pipe off the turbo (Though youll get a decent idea of it from the above pic, its all one piece)- But heres one of the the cold-side pipe at least.

IMG00454.jpg

And these feed into an Isuzu NPR intercooler.  The end tanks were modified a bit with different in/outlets- Coming straight out at an angle, instead of the factory ones that swept back. Required 0 trimming of my core support this way.

IMG_00872.jpg

Ive yet to have it on a race track but I can say with the car stationary on our dyno with nothing but a small squirrel fan feeding air through the front of the car we never saw intake temps go above ambient. I get the same results on the street (Typically speaking, intake temps go down when the boost comes in, and stay at whatever ambient is)

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