Neverdone

What if you had a spacer on the face of the flange? https://www.appletreeauto.com/CV-GREASE-RING-930-CV-AC525140-930/ That's 20 dollars, and has the added benefit of being able to grease the CV joint without disassembly. That would bring you back up to 19mm of spline engagement.

GM made a RWD transmission for the turbo Ecotec in the Pontiac Solstice GXP and Saturn Sky. While not widely available, searching around your area I found a few for around 400 dollars. Probably worth paying shipping for something you know will bolt right up.

Speaking of which, any update if a smaller nut or something can be used for the Toyota flange?

You can't unweld an open diff.

Now I have a question, according to some guy on Zdriver, the 280zx brake booster can be installed by removing the spacer on the back and flipping it 180 degrees and adjusting the brake pedal link Why not just use that? Is there something else that needs to be modified? Also, is the 280z brake booster different than the later 240z brake booster?

Because he has the Ecotec. Also, the turbo ecotec is a sweet motor that makes a buncha power and is pretty easy to get ahold of for not a lot of money.

Oh yeah, forgot about the having the steering wheel on the wrong side on your R32. Yeah none of those will probably work without some modifications.

That's a search for 1991 300zx non-turbo rack and pinions. http://car-part.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi?userSearch=int&userPID=1000&userLocation=USA&userIMS=&userInterchange=BEAF%3F&userSide=&userDate=1991&userDate2=1991&dbModel=54.6.1.1&userModel=Nissan%20240SX&dbPart=551.1&userPart=Rack%20%26%20Pinion%20(Steering)&sessionID=600000000000000000396734150&userPreference=zip&userZip=20759&userLat=39.1527&userLong=-76.9296&userIntSelect=6666&userUID=0&userBroker=&userPage=1&iKey= ^ That is a search for 1991 240sx rack and pinions. Personally I don't know if those parts are the same as the R32, but if they are, and you need one, you could pick one of them up.

Any of these work? http://car-part.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi?userSearch=int&userPID=1000&userLocation=USA&userIMS=&userInterchange=BEA%3DF&userSide=&userDate=1991&userDate2=1991&dbModel=54.10.1.1&userModel=Nissan%20300ZX&dbPart=551.1&userPart=Rack%20%26%20Pinion%20(Steering)&sessionID=600000000000000000396728184&userPreference=zip&userZip=20759&userLat=39.1527&userLong=-76.9296&userIntSelect=15220&userUID=0&userBroker=&userPage=1&iKey=

What camera did you use to make that?

PM sent.

Good point. Instead of measuring the hole the Datsun uses, measure the socket you normally use to remove it. It doesn't need to be much bigger than that.

What kind of nut does the stock Toyota use vs what the Datsun uses?

According to a lot of crawler and offroad buggy guys, the stock 27 spline flange doesn't cut it, so to make it last, they made it thicker. Below is an example of the cross section of the stock 30 spline Toyota. https://www.marlincrawler.com/transfer-case/parts-upgrade/tc-hilux/pattern-less-30-spline-heavy-duty-transfer-case-flange If you notice they used to have a thicker version of the 27 spline...but don't anymore. I searched all over for it and didn't come up with anything. However, for our cars, I still think the weak point is the stub axle and the half shaft. For anyone wanting to run 930 CV axles though, would modifying this flange be any different than just using these adapters? https://zcardepot.com/driveline/rear-axle/billet-aluminum-axle-adaptors-930-cv-240z-260z-280z.html

1) 2 of these flanges will cost around 60 dollars. The ones Chequered Flag offers cost 440 dollars. If you can get the machining (cutting 10mm off the collar, making a sleve/ordering a larger oil seal, and drilling new holes in a concentric pattern to the axis) done for under 380 dollars, then yes. 2) It will be weaker. There's less material. Without running destructive testing or at least running finite element analysis on both, we won't know. 3) The outer diameter of the flange is 111mm. I think the hole pattern of a 930 CV goes along a 94mm circle.

I was doing some measuring on your parts. Correct me if I'm wrong here. So to make this work, we need to remove 10mm of the blank material on the Toyota flange, then attach a sleeve that goes around the splined portion 2mm thick. I draw up a sleeve that would just slide over Toyota part and hard stop against the back of the upper lip of the cone portion of the flange. Any reason why this wouldn't work? Not sure where to weld it to the flange...someone with more fabrication experience than I should probably chime in on that one.

Easiest way I've found to share files without a private server is with Google docs. I'm pretty sure you can attach any sort of file you want to share there.

As opposed to what other car brand that is cheap? To do any car "right", you need to spend the money. Also, maybe my conversion is wrong, but it seemed like it was only twice as expensive as the normal ZG body kit that everyone seems to put on their car. For something that almost no one has done and looks good, seems reasonable to me.

I'm no artist, but the natural line seems to be where the line naturally is that runs right through the door handle. In your pictures, there's two shades of black. Where the two change color, right there.

Are you asking us what color we think you should paint your car?

Aren't the stub axles the most common point of failure?

That's an S30 chassis.

https://zcardepot.com/driveline/rear-axle?page=1 Good place to start.

https://zcardepot.com/driveline/rear-axle/rear-differential-diff-axle-stud-r180-oem.html Are the studs different on a R200 than they are on an R180? If not, there ya go.

I have an excel spreadsheet that has a "parts I need" with a "parts I've bought" next to it. It helps plan out all the parts I'm going to need and some basic guesses on how much they might cost. I've also linked websites with locations I can buy those parts so I don't forget where I'm suppose to get things. As it turns out, just getting the engine and transmission isn't anywhere near, "most of the budget". Oh how dumb I was Good luck on the rust.