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    Cars, guns, computers, arc welding, high tech welding, metal fabrication, machining.

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  1. 280z 302 sbf swap

    Thanks for the links there bud, bookmarked both of them. I was already assuming that I would need to have a driveshaft made. The mustache bar wont be an issue as I have all the tools needed to fabricate them. I have the prints from the Laine web page on my computer.
  2. 280z 302 sbf swap

    My 77 280z was a 3 spd auto, I believe it has an R180, 3.54 open. I dont think any R200 will be a direct bolt in
  3. 280z 302 sbf swap

    What are the ideal R200 donors? 300zx? 240sx? Are there any other vehicles (non-nissan) that are also potential donor swaps that I should be looking out for?
  4. 280z 302 sbf swap

    My big "?" that I have not decided on is the rear differential. The car has an R180 in it right now which will not stand up to the 302. I may leave it in and run it briefly after the swap but I will need to replace it with something a little tougher. I know some R200s would work for it, and then there are R230s, but are there any other options beside those? I have read about swapping an 8.8 into it which I have, but, it seemed to be alot more work and money and I would lose my IRS, plus I dont think a 302 really warrants an 8.8 axle.
  5. 280z 302 sbf swap

    Yes, I have an 86 302 mostly apart with the roller cam. I will have to do some research amongst the foxbody/sbf crowd to figure out how it will effect the mountaineer engine's performance. I was afraid that the engine control computer also interfaced with the transmission, although I have converted some vehicles from AT to ST and found that bypassing the neutral lockout was the only hurdle which consisted of jumping a couple wires in the harness.
  6. 280z 302 sbf swap

    Hey guys, been a loooong time since I was last on here. I am getting back into my engine swap project for my 77 280z. I sold the engine out of the z this year and picked up pieces for the swap. I am shooting for the following setup 302 EFI, W/C T5, unsure about rear differential I have a W/C T5 already but it has no bellhousing, supposedly low miles I have an 86 mustang GT 302 but I just obtained a free, running and driving 2001 Mercury Mountaineer with a 302 that I am told is the best factory 302 I can get, so I will likely be using that for the donor I do not have a rear differential for the swap, that seems to be the only other BIG item that I am missing. I have the solidwork prints from the Laine swap website and will likely be using those to fabricate my mounts. I will be updating with pictures soon. Is there anything else I will need for the swap that I cannot pull from the Mountaineer? I was hoping I could use it's ECU and electrical system in the Z. I would like to be producing over 200hp/325ft/lbs at the wheels with this setup. I was told that the cam in a mountaineer 302 is actually a truck cam and I could gain a decent HP boost (at the cost of a little torque) by swapping the cam out of my mustang GT 302. Does anyone have any experience with this?
  7. Hey guys, I picked up a ford 5.0 out of an 86 mustang for my engine swap into my 77 280z. I came across an ad for headers and I want to know if they will fit the engine bay. They are bassani equal length shorty headers and they measure 6.675" at their widest point. I was reviewing my schematics but they do not show the width of the 280z engine bay at the strut towers, only at the frame and the strut towers center to center. Anyone know if these things will git?
  8. 77 280z no spark

    So I tested the pickup and it seems to be OK, measured 385ohms for resistance. I am at a total loss now, the coil is getting power when it should, the dizzy seems to pass it's tests, everything seems fine, but it wont spark. I decided to hookup a jumper cable to the coil after removing all the wires from it. I positioned the end of the high tension wire over one of the bolt heads on the intake manifold, then connected the jumper cable to the battery and started tapping the negative post, and nothing comes out of the high tension cable. I am wondering if the high tension cable is damaged internally somehow.
  9. 77 280z no spark

    I started troubleshooting according to the 1979 280zx book, since I have a 280zx dizzy. I measured resistance on the two connectors from the pickup coil to the IC unit, book says that it should read 400ohms, I get no reading. Will be pulling the pickup coil next.
  10. Hook up a vacuum gauge to the intake manifold as well, mine was behaving similarly and I found that it had a vacuum leak.
  11. 77 280z no spark

    Still working on this issue. Starter is functioning again, but no spark. I swapped in another ignition coil and tried manually grounding it but it did not produce a spark.
  12. wiring push button start on 77 280z

    Can anyone confirm the purpose of the Black/blue stripe wire coming out of the igntion switch in the atlanticz diagram? I believe it is the 12v bypass wire from the transistor ignition system which my car no longer has, so I should be able to remove it.
  13. wiring push button start on 77 280z

    Just soldered wires to the start button and tested it, works great. Cant upload video for some reason though...
  14. wiring push button start on 77 280z

    JHM, I do not have that schematic, I was looking at http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/before2.gif It is in color but the pin numbers dont seem to make sense, although they say it is the wiring for a 77 280z. It does match the colors on the back of my switch though. I have a 3 button safety switch panel, just want to run this by you guys who have done this: Wire #14 is the 12v supply from the fuses and needs to be wired to the acc switch, "on" switch, and start button. My question is: Does #10 need to be wired to both acc AND "on"? or can it only be wired to acc switch? Finally: The push button would need #14 wire (12v supply), #15, and #18 correct?
  15. wiring push button start on 77 280z

    Just got the switches, kind of disappointed in the push button. It locks closed if you press it too far in. not sure if it will continue to trigger the starter though.