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beermanpete

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Everything posted by beermanpete

  1. Alternator question

    Your car died when you removed the battery cable because the alternator was not able to "keep up" with the current demand and the voltage fell below a point that will keep the fuel injection and ignition systems operating correctly. This does not necessarily indicate a faulty alternator. If the engine were running at a higher RPM it may have stayed running because the alternator can put out more current when the RPM is higher (to a point). The battery supplies current when the alternator cannot and this keeps the voltage up and the car running.
  2. Oil starvation ever an issue on L28 during racing?

    Sorry for the late reply. We first noticed the oil pressure drop when we started using the Falken Azenus RT615K which has a tread wear rating of 200. With "regular" tires we never noticed a problem. With any of the the Comp-R tires the problem is more severe.
  3. Oil starvation ever an issue on L28 during racing?

    Yes, the oil moves away from the pick-up when cornering. We have managed to get by with an extra half-quart of of so of oil beyond the full line on the dip stick.
  4. The MasterVac is likely leaking when you press the brake and causing a vacuum leak.
  5. Comparing triples to plenum induction

    No mention of the total intake runner length. The triples likely have a longer intake length. If so, it might tune the intake resonance to a lower RPM and broaden the power band.
  6. Is this site dead?

    I am still here but don't post much lately. Facebook? Instagram? What are those?
  7. If you use a fitting on the carb or manifold you need the PCV, otherwise you will create a massive vacuum leak. I agree with Chickenman, replace the PCV. Do not simply block the crankcase block vent. If you do not reinstall a PCV you should run a hose down under the engine and positon the end to be in the air flow while driving and cut an angle on the back side so the front is the low edge. This will cause a draft to pull air in through the cracnkcase, entering at the vent on the valve cover and exiting at the tube below the engine. This will take water vapor and other gasses out of the crankcase. This is called a road draft tube and was common prior the adoptio of the PVC system in the mid-sixties.
  8. That looks the same as my '73.
  9. Fuel system vent

    I don't get the use of the loops in the vent line. It seems that will cause problem by blocking the line with liquid fuel that collects in the low points. We ran a line from the tank to a tee at the fuel filler and then from the tee up above the filler and back down to the outside of the car. I have seem evidence it drips a little when coming off the track if the tank was full at beginning of the session. Other than this it works great.
  10. Brake bleed HELP PLZ?!

    If you are continually getting air and it never purges there is an air leak somewhere. Does the brake pedal pump up at all? If so, pump it up and hold it down whith pressure in the line and see it if sinks slowly. This indicates a leak. Next, inspect the enitre brake system for leaks at each joint and compoment. If there are no fluid leaks the master is bad. As mentioned, caliper mounting with caliper swaps sometimes leads to an arrangement that requires taking the calipers off and holding them with the bleered at the top to properly bleed them. Also, on occassion the left and right calipers get installed on the oppsosite side which places the bleeders at the bottom causing air to get trapped in the calipers.
  11. I don't remember what the return line looks like inside the tank. The return line is smaller than the supply line and may not support enough flow for sustained full throttle operation. Greg's car is a is a '78 (or the tank is at least) and is therefore different than ours. The photos on Blue's website show the sender port on the top of thank where ours is on the front. The sender itself and the lock ring look the same so the technique should work. Position the free end of the pick-up near the baffle and bend the end so it is parallel with the floor of the tank and touching the floor or very close at least to it at least.
  12. On our '73 the pickup tube in the tank cracked or rusted through and caused fuel starvation even while the tank was mostly full. Our solution was to abandon the original pickup and install a new one through the fuel gauge sending unit port using a home made plate and an AN style bulkhead fitting. The plate is the same size as the sending unit and works with the original lock-ring and o-ring. The free end of the new pickup tube is located near the internal baffle and works well. Obviously, this eliminated the fuel gauge.
  13. Wiring

    Sure. I did a minimal rewire on our car for track use. What is your intended use for the car?
  14. There is a voltage regulator built into the gauge. If it is not adjusted correctly it can cause the gauges to oscillate (wave back and forth) or stop working. This adjustment is interactive with the calibration for each of the two gauges in the unit (temp and pressure).
  15. Can I delete this hard line?

    Yes, that is the fuel tank vent. If you remove it you need to rework the tank vent in the rear hatch area on the right side.
  16. Starter Tips

    The 260Z (and perhaps the 280Z) has a lot connections in the circuit path between the battery and the solenoid. The issue is the voltage drop in the circuit gets too high over time and eventually the solenoid will not pull-in reliably. I had to install the "relay mod" on one I had a while ago. i don't know how you did yours but I ran power from the battery cable on the solenoid through a fuse and relay to the solenoid pull-in terminal. It works well. Pulling power from any other circuit could result in the same problem for the same reason, voltage drop across the connections along the way. If the starter motor spins without turning the engine you have a bad over-run clutch (the Bendix as the old timers call it) in the starter. This is unrelated to any wiring issues you may happen to have.
  17. NASA West Coast Nationals: S30 on pole

    Awesome! It looks like the event is over now. How did you do?
  18. The Alfa Romeo Owners of Southern California are co-hosting (with NCRC) a race and time trial event at Buttonwillow Raceway on June 4-5, 2016. All cars and driver experience levels are welcome. http://www.aroschpd.org/events/2016/jun2016_bw.html I will be there with our '73 240Z
  19. AROSC holds about 4 events each year but not all at Buttonwillow. The next event is the driving school at The Streets of Willow Springs in November. Then a Time Trial and Race at Laguna Seca on the New Years weekend. Check the AROSC website for details: http://www.aroschpd.org/
  20. Start with the safety equipment needed for the type of racing you intend to do. The club or organization that runs the racing activity should have a rule book available that spells out the requirements. Also, read the rules regarding what mods are allowed and specifically prohibited for the class you will run in.
  21. Are my expectations too high?

    Does your car have good throttle response? If it does it is likely running as it should but does not fit your expectations. The Z engine is not peaky and the power falls off in the mid-5000 RPM range. If the Maxima head still has its original cam the power band could be lower still. Driving feel (to me) with the 280 engine (with SU carbs) is that it does not give much sensation of pulling hard because the power band is wide and flat. By contrast, my Miata is peaky and does not make much power until above 4k or so. This makes it feel faster than the Z but I doubt it actually is.
  22. 260Z Crank Pulley mystery?

    Start by confirming TDC for the #1 cylinder using other means than the timing marks on the pulley. Then look at where the marks on the pulley are in relation to the pointer on the engine. If the engine is running reasonably well the timing is likely close enough that the oil pump is not part of your issue.
  23. Holley fuel pumps are bad?

    We have a Holley Red pump on our car with SU carbs. It works great. We use an in-line regulator that only has two hoses (in and out). A three hose bypass type regulator would be better but the cost is higher.
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