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Everything posted by jhm

  1. jhm

    Orange Airbox

    Very nice original orange airbox, pulled from non-running early-model 260Z (prod. 11/73). May be compatible with other carbureted years as well. Very minimal surface rust. All fittings in great condition. Rubber still pliable and functional. Includes the two long wing-nut bolts for installation, as shown in pictures. $40 plus shipping. Thx for looking.
  2. jhm

    Orange Airbox

    BUMP. New price: $25 plus shipping.
  3. Stock bars for sale; removed from my early 260Z (production 11/73). Rear bar is 20 mm and front is 18 mm. Bars only -- no bushings or end links. In excellent condition and ready for installation. Rear bar is sold; front bar still available. $20 plus shipping. Shipping from 23602, so you can do your own shipping estimates if you want to shop for the best price.
  4. Heater blower assembly from 1973 260Z with air conditioning. In good physical condition, no damage or rust, fan spins freely, defroster flap operates smoothly, bellows still soft and pliable, wiring and plugs in good shape. Tested on battery, and blower blows hard and pushes a lot of air. Compatible with other years if you have similar plug configuration. $20 plus shipping. Thanks for looking.
  5. jhm

    OEM Heater Blower Assembly

    BUMP -- still available. $20 plus shipping.
  6. Nice price. Didn't know AZC was offering those pieces....may have to look into it. Thx.
  7. Nice parts list! 👍 Dropping some serious change on this build. You may want to consider some adjustable tie rod ends, while you're at it....there's a couple vendors out there; I've got T3's, and am pretty happy with the quality. Apex Engineering just released some, but I don't know anyone that's used them yet.
  8. jhm

    240z retrostat removal

    Couldn't agree more with the advice above. Have seen several members here, and on other forums, recently tackle electrical issues with a random, unsystematic approach....replacing components at random without any deliberate analysis or troubleshooting. Just leads to frustration and lots of time/money spent on needless replacements. BTW, if you determine that your issues are indeed caused by the gauge lamp dimmer rheostat, and if you don't care about the functionality of the rheostat, it can be removed from the system. It's just a variable resistor. I always prefer my gauges on full bright, so I removed the rheostat and jumped the two leads together....giving full current to the gauge lamps whenever switched on. Good luck with it.
  9. Looks like a really nice old 240. You are already WAY ahead where most of us usually are when starting with a newly-acquired Z. Have fun with it, and welcome to HybridZ.
  10. Congrats on your find and good luck with the resto-build. Looking forward to seeing the progress!
  11. Current flows to the wiper motor through the wiper relay on the relay panel in the passenger footwell. Relay could be bad, but I would test it before replacing. The wiper motor could also be bad. Try applying 12v directly to the motor to test. The wiper mechanism may also be frozen, which would prevent the wipers from working, but they can be cleaned up and lubed pretty easily. Yes, the switch for the rear defroster is typically located in the center console, under the radio.
  12. Were you able to download all the FSM docs you needed? The wiper wiring runs from the combo switch, through the dash harness, to the wiper relay in the passenger footwell....it should not have any connections in the area of the radio. There is a plug on the firewall inside the engine compartment which can become loose and/or corroded, causing the wipers to fail. Hope this helps.
  13. SJ, that's a bummer....sorry to hear that it didn't work for you. I went back and checked my flasher unit, and I'm pretty sure it's the same one you bought from Amazon. It's been working fine for almost a year now. Weird. The good news is that these are obviously becoming more popular, cheaper, and more readily available. Maybe check one out like Miles is running. Sorry again the unit from Amazon didn't work for you.
  14. Happy to help. WRT the unidentified cut wires, I would try testing them for continuity between the cut ends and the same-colored pin connectors at the big junction block in the passenger footwell. Once you've found the correct wire/pin location on the junction block, you can use the FSM data to nail down the what the cut wire was for. Sounds tedious, but really shouldn't take long once you get going.
  15. Yeah, those "complete vehicle" schematics have their uses sometimes; but they can also be a nightmare. Here's the only 240 body electrical FSM I have; it's for a '73. May help you at least partially. That 3-pronged female plug may be for power antenna (see page 4 on the attached). Have you checked http://www.xenonzcar.com/s30/fsm.html? This is the best source for Z car electrical schematics online that I know of. Download EVERYTHING you might ever need....the website comes and goes over time; and you never know when it might disappear completely. Good luck with it. BE Body Electrical.pdf
  16. I must say it really is impressive to see your level of commitment, patience and attention to detail on this restoration -- very impressed with your metal work and fab skills. Kudos for bringing this old girl back to life!!
  17. Seattlejester, which electronic flashers were you using, just out of curiosity? I have not observed the specific issues you were experiencing, so I'm wondering if the choice of flasher was causing the problem.
  18. If no one else chimes in, I'll take s look at my documentation tomorrow. My recollection is that blues wires in the dash are often associated with the heating and cooling systems. Those leads on the steering column appear to be factory original, so the FSM should show you exactly what they're connected to.
  19. jhm

    Questions about Auto-X

    SCCA and NASA are two of the main sanctioning bodies in the U.S.; but there can often be local clubs and organizations that run their own events outside of these two. Consider running some HPDE, as well as autox. SCCAForums and NASAForums are good sources of event info across the country, as is MotorsportsReg.com. If you are more interested in maximizing your car's performance (with the lowest times) than placing within a particular class, you may find that XP is most suited to your goals. It permits just about any and all modifications, for all intents and purposes. The penalty you pay is a stiffer PAX rating.
  20. Admins, we have a spammer....username "davidhenry".
  21. Congrats...looks very nice. You probably already know this, but the problem most people encounter when restoring an old dash is that new cracks continue to pop up after the restoration....and obviously best way to avoid this is a good sealer treatment and avoid UV whenever possible. May even want to consider using one of those carpet-type dash mats to protect it.
  22. Great write-up, socorob...thx very much. To answer your question regarding 240 racks; yes, they will fit later years, but you'll need different bushings. The 240 steering rack bushings are narrower than the 280's. I'm assuming you want the earlier rack for the different steering ratio?
  23. Sounds like the video was shot in the shop, no? (I.e. Car on a lift, and no load on he drivetrain.) Ard you sure you got a good diff? Those noises on the video sound a lot like a differential with internal issues. What differential is it, and is it open or LSD?
  24. Gotcha. Can certainly understand wanting a full original dash vs a dash cover. Can't say that I've seen one melted and bubbled up like yours did....I'm a cheap bastard and have had half-caps on all my Z's, and they've always lasted pretty well. But they've always been garaged, and obviously not subject to constant UV damage.