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Aydin, my two cents...I wouldn't recommend buying your helmet used, but everything else (suit, underwear, gloves, shoes, etc) can be found just fine used. You probably would want to buy that stuff in-person to ensure you could try it on for fit before handing over your cash. And get your helmet from a vendor that allows free exchanges, as helmet manufacturers use different sizing guidelines when constructing their helmets. You'll see vendors at most track events with new, "defect", and used gear. Even those huge swap meets you have in Cali are probably a good bet to check out for used gear.

@fusion, FWIW....I've done my last two windshields the way @Sanchez recommended (no sealant). Haven't had any leaks with them. Once it's in, it's key to "massage" the gasket in order to ensure that the gasket corners are all tight and filling the corresponding metal corners fully.

Great to see it moving under its own power, Aydin....Kudos! The adjustable front sway bar looks great. (And nice score on the corner scales.)

Seems odd that it's fighting you so hard....especially since your underside seems relatively rust-free, from what I can see in your photo. Try using some heat in addition to the penetrating oil. Heating it and cooling it multiple times will cycle the metal internally through several cycles of expansion/contraction. Can use ice for "fast cooling", which sometimes helps to break loose any internal corrosion. Worst case, unthread the entire tie rod assembly at the inner tie rod and you can continue working on it in a bench vise.

Just wanted to say again a HUGE "Thank You" to @cockerstar for doing this (a FIFTH time)!!!! Really appreciate all his time and effort to make this happen. You da' man, Ryan!!! 👍👍

Could you just get a thread size checker like this, and figure it out that way? https://www.amazon.com/Nut-Thread-Checker-Complete-Metric/dp/B09LH877TB/ref=asc_df_B09LH877TB/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=563795747675&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3578390821976184060&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9008585&hvtargid=pla-1601440163251&psc=1&mcid=e26284c6ca473f63bb4aac48facbc55a

A HUGE thanks to Ryan for selflessly donating his time and effort to make this happen (again)!! For those that haven't seen it yet; his new apparel thread can be found here: @LLave, @HIWAY ONE, @Mayolives, @AydinZ71, @jpndave, @Gollum, @Kennysgreen280zt, @MAG58, @superduner, @1970 240z, @seattlejester, @Neverdone, @Zetsaz, @skib Tried to tag members that had expressed an interest in another run...sorry for the double-tap if that happened to anyone. Enjoy!!!!

Thanks for your generous donation of time and effort, Ryan!! It's members like you that make HybridZ such a great community to be part of! (And a HUGE kudos to you for keeping prices down.) 👍👍 Please put me down for: (1) Tee shirt Size: Large Color: Military Green Zip: 23602

You are 100% correct there, @NewZed. I have actually had starvation issues with tank half-full (or more). Solution that worked for me was a surge tank and a better pump at the rear....now I can run the tank almost to empty, even during hard track use with sticky slicks. Hopefully this discussion has helped the OP.

FWIW, I agree with @AydinZ71 as well.....on just about everything he said. @CBoynton, if you've decided that fuel cell is the best solution for your particular situation; just make sure it's installed correctly and SAFELY. I've seen way too many installs done incorrectly. As an alternative to the cell, have you considered "sealing off the spare tire area" (your words) and replacing your current tank with a used OEM tank? They're still available for $200-300 used. Just throwing out ideas here....

@nkopp, I would strongly suggest avoiding the driver foorwell area. It's already cramped in there...with the pedal box, steering shaft, etc. I think it would be a real pain to have your electricals in there, and trying to do any periodic mx on them. I have my relays and fusebox on the firewall in the passenger footwell, and it's very easy to get to them for mx, repairs, upgrades, etc. I made a simple sheetmetal shield to cover/protect them. @nicksoccer22, that's a good place to put them for accessibility; but are you planning to put any kind of aftermarket heater/defroster in there? If so, what unit are you planning to use? Just curious...

@matthewabate, here's a couple threads that should help you ID which diff you have. https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2597453 https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/105868-subaru-diff-clarification/ You can determine your diff type on inspection; and I suspect that @AydinZ71 is correct in his last line supposition. Hope this helps.

@Boondocker, you are aware that this thread is 15 years old, correct? The OP hasn't been on the forum in a very long time; however, did you read their post on Feb 2, 2008? It pretty much answers your question regarding fitment: "The clearance between the distributor and the intake is the issue. The bolt hole nearest the distributor had to be machined off and a new smaller diameter ear welded on that would use an allen head bolt. Not sure about shaft length issues on the distributor but I know the gear is the metric one from the original distributor."

It's obviously really hard to diagnose a random noise from a video; but you may be on to something regarding the headers. An exhaust leak from the headers can sound a LOT like valvetrain noise. When you try retightening the header bolts, go from inside bolts to outside bolts, and do it in steps so you're gradually clamping the header to the head evenly across the surface. If that doesn't work; remove and inspect the header gasket. If it's leaking, you may see some telltale signs of the leak(s) on the gasket material itself. Don't assume that the engine builder used the correct gasket for those headers...I've seen plenty of people install the wrong gasket for their particular head & header combination. If the gasket is correct, and a quality gasket, you can try using some copper hi-temp RTV on the sealing surfaces to help battle any leaks. Hope this helps -- good luck with it.

Wow...that's a lot to go through at any age, Clark. Sorry to hear that; but very glad that you're feeling better now and on the mend. Question on the dampers: it appears that Redshift integrates the BC strut housing (and associated spring perch HW) with their own proprietary shocks. Is that correct? I wasn't aware that was an available option, but it really does sound like a great solution. Which springs (and spring rates) did you go with? According to their website, it appears that Swift is the preferred option, which I would wholeheartedly agree with. In my limited experience with BC hardware, they typically use a 62.5 mm spring ID. Is that the case for the ones Redshift built for you?

There is a possibility that there will be another run of HybridZ apparel/merchandise in order to raise funds to help defray operating expenses for the forum. No details as of now; but stay tuned. Likely only going down this path if there's sufficient interest to warrant the time & effort.

Aydin, you are correct that Fritz McKellar produced these a couple years ago; but I think he got out of it due to insufficient market interest. (He's mainly a 510 guy, IIRC.) It appears that ZCarDepot sells something similar, but only as a bolt-in replacement for the stock half-shafts. Pretty decent price, though, for bolt-in CV axles. https://zcardepot.com/collections/rear-axle-and-differential/products/cv-rear-axle-replacment-240z-260z-280z To the OP....sorry, can't directly answer your question regarding first-hand experience with the FutoFab or Silvermine units. My other experiences with those two vendors is that both are good; but would have to say that the FutoFab hardware is a notch above most other vendors for S30 aftermarket parts & pieces. FWIW, I can also tell you that my stock half-shafts and stub axles have held up fine to LOTS of track and auto-x at 300 WHP and slicks.

Yes, similar here....in order to post in the Classified Ads, one must be a Donating Member. Thank you for your donation, and to the others that have donated!

And if you don't have the FSM for your car, you can download them free for all years at: https://www.xenonzcar.com/s30/fsm.html

Possibly. Worth a look.

Hey all- We still have a robust and active membership here at HybridZ; but unfortunately, donations have really dropped off the last 4-5 years. We do derive some level of revenue from ads; but that typically falls well short of actual operating costs for the website (web hosting fees, software license fees, etc, etc.) Was chatting with @SuperDan recently, and he estimated that our annual expenses exceed advertisement income by $1300-1600 every year! Soooo, we are asking that folks consider making a donation to keep the forum up and running. We've had some issues with the "Donation" function recently, but it should be resolved now and working correctly. Anyone wishing to make a Donation and running into any issues whatsoever, please don't hesitate to post here (or PM me directly) and I will ensure your issue gets resolved. For your ease of reference, here's the link to the "Donation" button: https://forums.hybridz.org/clients/donations/ I will probably post this announcement in a couple of different locations on the Forum to ensure maximum visibility. Thanks for your time, and Happy Motoring. Vr John

Hey all- We still have a robust and active membership here at HybridZ; but unfortunately, donations have really dropped off the last 4-5 years. We do derive some level of revenue from ads; but that typically falls well short of actual operating costs for the website (web hosting fees, software license fees, etc, etc.) Was chatting with @SuperDan recently, and he estimated that our annual expenses exceed advertisement income by $1300-1600 every year! Soooo, we are asking that folks consider making a donation to keep the forum up and running. We've had some issues with the "Donation" function recently, but it should be resolved now and working correctly. Anyone wishing to make a Donation and running into any issues whatsoever, please don't hesitate to post here (or PM me directly) and I will ensure your issue gets resolved. For your ease of reference, here's the link to the "Donation" button: https://forums.hybridz.org/clients/donations/ I will probably post this announcement in a couple of different locations on the Forum to ensure maximum visibility. Thanks for your time, and Happy Motoring. Vr John

I was going to suggest that you post that question in ClassicZCars; but just saw that you already did. I suspect someone there may have an answer for you. I haven't personally had a parking brake boot in a VERY long time; but seem to recall that they were just "standard" sized metal snaps. Have you checked out snap supplies at a local fabric store? I'd be surprised if they didn't have something that would work for you.

@walkerbk, very kind of you. Did anyone ever take you up on your generous offer?

No, I would definitely worry about it; and not drive it anymore until you’ve diagnosed it. Did it just start making this noise out of the blue? Or maybe after you’d done some repairs or maintenance? It almost sounds like a mechanical interference noise. Use a stethoscope around various locations on the engine to help isolate where it’s coming from.