jhm

Welcome back, @woldsonnn...glad you're able to rejoin us! Like rturbo and Monzter said, a lot of the original crowd that made HybridZ such a great forum have moved on. Still have a bunch of great people here, and some really energetic newcomers. HBZ is still my first go-to for technical questions, and even the social media crowd recognizes this forum as a valuable resource for in-depth technical data. Good luck with your ZX resto!!

$150 is a steal — nice find! IMHO, the Autopower bar is the nicest roll bar produced for the Z…it’s what I’ve had in my last two cars. Thanks for the update!!

Oh, yeah...that's loose....REALLY loose. Silly question, but did you try tightening the 4 bolts that secure the coupler? You usually need to experiment with the right combination of box -end and open-end wrenches (because of the tight clearances and angularity of the joint). It also makes the job a lot easier if you rotate the steering shaft to get full exposure of each of the four nuts/bolts, as you tighten them. I do them in 180 deg pairings (like you would your lug nuts)....probably not necessary...just my engineering obsessive/compulsiveness. Glad you found the issue, and that it seems to be something cheap & easy to fix!

Nice-looking piece. Can I suggest you move your post to the Vendors' Forum? https://forums.hybridz.org/forum/27-vendors-forum/ Thank you.

Good deal…GLWS. As an FYI for any prospective buyers, I’ve had a similar diff behind a built SBC in my 260 the last 8 years (mine has the Torsen helical LSD). No issues of any kind.

Got my shirt yesterday, and it looks awesome…thx, Ryan! Very much appreciate all your hard work to make this happen.

Yeah....that's way too much neg camber, Aydin. Glad you recognized that and are fixing it. Question: how much have you extended your adjustable front LCAs (vs stock length), and is that possibly contributing to this situation? You probably don't want to buy another set of camber plates, but I wonder if these from T3 would meet your need w/o cutting/drilling the strut tower: https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/280z/240z-260z-and-280z-solid-pillow-mounts REALLY nice to see your car running and driving, after so much work the last couple years. I'm sure it's very gratifying.

IINM, it looks like they were going for max caster using the BC camber plate, kind of like the EMI plates allowed with their innovative design. One can run the BC plates in the stock strut tower mounting position no problem.

You may also want to post in the "Parts Wanted" section: https://forums.hybridz.org/forum/73-parts-wanted/.

How about these? https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/high-clearance-outer-tie-rods-datsun-240z-260z-and-280z Apex makes them as well.

Thanks again for doing this, Ryan! This is such a thankless job; and this is the FIFTH time that you have volunteered to do it on your own time. Kudos, my Brother!!! 👍👍

Good point. Sorry…I missed that bit in your original post.

No, that definitely doesn’t seem right. I’ve used several aftermarket hubs (including Momo) on my various Zs; and never had a problem like that. Are there any other S30s in your area that you could try those hubs on?

@Exposed, it appears that you were able to post photos on your build thread yesterday. Is everything working ok for you now? No more problems posting pics?

Aydin, my two cents...I wouldn't recommend buying your helmet used, but everything else (suit, underwear, gloves, shoes, etc) can be found just fine used. You probably would want to buy that stuff in-person to ensure you could try it on for fit before handing over your cash. And get your helmet from a vendor that allows free exchanges, as helmet manufacturers use different sizing guidelines when constructing their helmets. You'll see vendors at most track events with new, "defect", and used gear. Even those huge swap meets you have in Cali are probably a good bet to check out for used gear.

@fusion, FWIW....I've done my last two windshields the way @Sanchez recommended (no sealant). Haven't had any leaks with them. Once it's in, it's key to "massage" the gasket in order to ensure that the gasket corners are all tight and filling the corresponding metal corners fully.

Great to see it moving under its own power, Aydin....Kudos! The adjustable front sway bar looks great. (And nice score on the corner scales.)

Seems odd that it's fighting you so hard....especially since your underside seems relatively rust-free, from what I can see in your photo. Try using some heat in addition to the penetrating oil. Heating it and cooling it multiple times will cycle the metal internally through several cycles of expansion/contraction. Can use ice for "fast cooling", which sometimes helps to break loose any internal corrosion. Worst case, unthread the entire tie rod assembly at the inner tie rod and you can continue working on it in a bench vise.

Just wanted to say again a HUGE "Thank You" to @cockerstar for doing this (a FIFTH time)!!!! Really appreciate all his time and effort to make this happen. You da' man, Ryan!!! 👍👍

Could you just get a thread size checker like this, and figure it out that way? https://www.amazon.com/Nut-Thread-Checker-Complete-Metric/dp/B09LH877TB/ref=asc_df_B09LH877TB/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=563795747675&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3578390821976184060&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9008585&hvtargid=pla-1601440163251&psc=1&mcid=e26284c6ca473f63bb4aac48facbc55a

A HUGE thanks to Ryan for selflessly donating his time and effort to make this happen (again)!! For those that haven't seen it yet; his new apparel thread can be found here: @LLave, @HIWAY ONE, @Mayolives, @AydinZ71, @jpndave, @Gollum, @Kennysgreen280zt, @MAG58, @superduner, @1970 240z, @seattlejester, @Neverdone, @Zetsaz, @skib Tried to tag members that had expressed an interest in another run...sorry for the double-tap if that happened to anyone. Enjoy!!!!

Thanks for your generous donation of time and effort, Ryan!! It's members like you that make HybridZ such a great community to be part of! (And a HUGE kudos to you for keeping prices down.) 👍👍 Please put me down for: (1) Tee shirt Size: Large Color: Military Green Zip: 23602

You are 100% correct there, @NewZed. I have actually had starvation issues with tank half-full (or more). Solution that worked for me was a surge tank and a better pump at the rear....now I can run the tank almost to empty, even during hard track use with sticky slicks. Hopefully this discussion has helped the OP.

FWIW, I agree with @AydinZ71 as well.....on just about everything he said. @CBoynton, if you've decided that fuel cell is the best solution for your particular situation; just make sure it's installed correctly and SAFELY. I've seen way too many installs done incorrectly. As an alternative to the cell, have you considered "sealing off the spare tire area" (your words) and replacing your current tank with a used OEM tank? They're still available for $200-300 used. Just throwing out ideas here....

@nkopp, I would strongly suggest avoiding the driver foorwell area. It's already cramped in there...with the pedal box, steering shaft, etc. I think it would be a real pain to have your electricals in there, and trying to do any periodic mx on them. I have my relays and fusebox on the firewall in the passenger footwell, and it's very easy to get to them for mx, repairs, upgrades, etc. I made a simple sheetmetal shield to cover/protect them. @nicksoccer22, that's a good place to put them for accessibility; but are you planning to put any kind of aftermarket heater/defroster in there? If so, what unit are you planning to use? Just curious...