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I got my hatch hinge seals from Vintage rubber back when those weren't available basically anywhere and they seem pretty good quality. Cheaper reproductions are now available, but after my frustrations with the fitment on a lot of the precision kit I don't think I'd bother. Vintage Rubber's kit is expensive, but it seems like it's far more complete than any other. It has damn near every single piece of rubber you can find on the car. I know for a fact the kit from Resurrected Classics has most of what you could want, but something like the hatch hinge seals aren't in that kit, just as an example. There's one piece that I didn't even have to install to know it's better than most other kits and that's the hood to cowl seal. The Resurrected Classics is a good reproduction of the later style with metal insert so it just sort of clamps on without the need for adhesive. It's longer than necessary though, which isn't ideal for a piece like that where cutting the metal inside is tricky sometimes.

Hypothetically, most of the Z forums nowadays are pretty dead. There may be a handful of posts on each one every day. Even though a lot of the information in forums is old, there is still a lot of relevant information on them. It would be sad to see it all get lost. I guess social media or smart phones are to blame. I'm not sure if there was an app for each forum (like a hybridz app) if that would help at this point or not. Everything that is posted in social media pretty much gets lost and is very hard if not impossible to find again, and its mainly just pictures and comments, nothing too technical. Does anyone think that there would ever be a world in which forums would merge before they got totally lost? Like several of the Z forums combining into 1 large Z forum (if that's even possible with the different software they use) to get the handful of people on each one all together so there are decent numbers on one. I worry that one day several of the old forums will cease to exist and all the information in them will disappear forever.

Looking forward to your feedback on the Resurrected Classics seals, I've been meaning considering that or Vintage Rubber. My experience so far with various companies and seals is can be hit or miss depending on the specific seal. Hopefully everything fits up well for you 😁

I installed the new IAC, it seals the air bypass much better. It has a pointed tip (the Grand Am IAC is on the left, the right model comes with the Protunerz intake: I tried using Tom's tune idle air valve settings/steps (4-7-1, time steps + initial time step size + minimum steps to move), it worked on the bench in the beginning, but strangely once in the car, it refused to move and was stuck in one position. I put back my original (3-5-3) steps and it started moving. I am keeping 'Always on' setting as it works more predictably. I have a general question about these steps considering dozens of other combinations people use with their MS boards. Assuming the valve is the same, one car uses the Megasquirt board (dedicated IAC outputs) and another has a Microsquirt with the EFI Source's IAC stepper adapter (https://www.efisource.com/wp/shop/microsquirt-iac-stepper-adapter/), will the valve take the same steps in TunerStudio? I also tried both Homing Direction 'Open' and 'Closed'. The 'Closed' seemed to work better. The idle is stable. I found a set of informative YT videos at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z43YPcDGQEQ on setting up the CLI (closed-loop idle) and will play around with it this week.

Driveshaft Modifications and Driveline Alignment- I sent my old Driveshaft to be lengthen as old R200 differential was longer than the New 8.8 Differential. I got the new measurement by inserting the Front U-Joint all the way into the T-56 trans. Then measured the distance between it center of Chevy U-joint to the center of the Front U-joint of the 8.8 Ford Differential. The Machine Shop will make the shorter by 1 1/2" . This allows space to remove the Driveshaft when it is installed. Note-How large the Ford Adaptor from Sonan is. Driveshaft installed-Rear View Front View-Driveshaft After installing the New Driveshaft was installed, the Drive Alignment was done to double check. I used Two Methods -1-using Spicer Drivetrain Products Application from the Web. It requires the use of a Digital Protractor(mine was Klein Digital Protractor from Home Depot. I think it was about $30 but I bought awhile ago. Front u-Joint Measurement. Second-Middle of Driveshaft Measurement. Third-Front Differential Measurement After entering the Three Readings, the Application gives a Pass or Fail Result. In this case, the Result was "Pass". The Second Method you use the Tremec Tool Box Application. I used my IPHONE to enter the angle measurements. The Result was "Pass" also. Half Shafts Installation- This pic shows the difference between the Datsun Half Shafts and the Ford 8.8 ones. Left Side(shorter one) Half Shaft installed. . View of Both Half Shaft Shafts Left Side -Shorter in Length. Next-Rear Disc Brakes and Hand Brake

It ought to stop with those! Mine was night and day just adding the Toyota truck calipers and better pads to the front. Those are a whole different level!

Three weeks until I'm home and properly working on the car before a long road trip. I've been creating a detailed list on some Google notes of everything I hope to accomplish. I'll update once I truly get to it, but for now just wanted to share my excitement for my new brakes. Was in Utah about two weeks ago for a handful of days for a music conference and my brother was kind enough to let me borrow his truck to drive up to Logan just for one evening to have a quick dinner with the siblings up there and I took a quick trip to my folks' place late in the evening and opened up some of the parts to keep my motivation haha. Also had a big box of new seals from Resurrected Classics. They were kind enough to give me a steep discount on their weatherstripping kit when I asked if I could get it without the door seals since I had already purchased the S30 world seals before they released their kit. Looks like they were kind enough to give me the discount and kept the door seals anyway! I'll be making a thorough comparison of it against the Precision kit I have, mostly to see if it's truly far better for some of the worst fitting parts.

Thanks for the tip, tbh I was probably going to toss it. I haven’t been having much luck selling anything coming of the Z and don’t have much room in the garage. Only stuff I’ve sold has been off the 302 engine such as carbs and headers. I’ll make a spot and hang onto it.

https://forums.hybridz.org/forum/83-drivetrain/

Been done. If I recall correctly One member on here or on zcar.com ground them down by rubbing them on his garage floor.

So I am looking for anyone that has swapped a 350Z VLSD diff into a S30 Chassis. Specifically what axles were used? I seem to be running into posts w broken links and incomplete information on the subject. The diff I am looking at is a VLSD from a 350Z. I know the mounting is different which isn't a big deal. I can work something out including possibly swapping internals to a long nose R200. It comes w stub axles and I will consider a custom axle push comes to shove but wondering if you guys have a hybrid axle solution to make it work? The inner flanges on the diff are 6 bolt and the outer is stock ATM but I can change that if need be. I have looked at weld in adaptors but they all seem to be to adapt the outer flange to a 300Z axle 4 bolt pattern. Which depending on what is avail I can do no issues there. I am just playing w options right now. Anything like a good writeup that i can use or even a solid starting point on which axles may or may not work is appreciated. That includes machining the stub axles on the diff. I was thinking about making 280Z flanges and welding to them to the existing stub axles the using the stock halfshafts. Any ideas are welcome. Thanks in advance

Good progress! At the risk of stating the obvious, hang on to that front crossmember even if you're not planning to use it yourself in the near term. You may decide you need it in the future; and if not, someone else surely will. They're getting harder to find in good condition these days.

06-07-2025. More work on the Z car. Swapped out some fouled plugs for a new set of NGK BPR6ES plugs. Gapped at .032 and I put a daub on anti-seize on the threads to make them easier to take out eventually. Then I swapped out my thermostat, and started the car and it works! After that, a long item waiting project.....drilling a second set of holes in the stainless steel washers I use with my hood pins. They have 6/32 screws holding them in place. After getting everything on the engine sealed up, I started it and it smokes like an old 2 stroke SAAB. The back firing situation that blew my hoses off apparently blew out the carbon seals I had in my turbo, so the turbo had to come off so I can get it fixed. at the same time, I removed the brake master cylinder and booster. Initially I was going to eliminate the booster and enjoy all that space, but results are very mixed on doing that, save for the professional setup made by Chase Bays, that costs $750 for the master Cylinder and then you need flexible fines to go from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve. I have decided to re-drill mounting holes and move the booster and master cylinder over to the right about an inch. This will give me the much needed room to put in a heat shield between the master cylinder and the turbo and exhaust. To keep the pushrod for the brake booster straight, I will take a piece of thick steel and drill 2 holes, 1 inch apart with a hole drilled in one side where the original rod will go through with a nut on the front side that will be welded to the plate and then tack the rod flush with the steel plate. Then the other hole will be 1 inch over and will be where the clevis will hook on to the brake pedal leg. saves me some money, get to keep the nice brakes and look much better etc. in the engine bay. Pics follow. Cheers!

Im going to drill holes and move it 1 inch to the outside

The thing runs so good I can’t believe they aren’t very closely synced . First time doing ITBS so don’t know what to expect . I think they have been very good . Alpha N is a bit of a learning curve . I think I figured out I how to get 32 table for VE - but it runs well with 16 . I have a good MAP signal and I can see why some would use or try MAP density . I have a 3/4” log and soon it will be 1” . I will try it sometime just to prove to me - ha .

Hey everybody, I have removed the brake booster on my 1972 240Z. Mainly because I need the room for my turbo, and since this is a weekend cruiser anyway, I don't really need it. For those who have removed the booster but kept the stock master cylinder, where did you source the push rod that goes from the pedal to the master cylinder? Any lengths, etc. or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Joe

Can't help with that specific question; but if you don't yet have the Factory Service Manual for your car, you can download free FSMs for all years here: https://www.xenonzcar.com/s30/fsm.html

Subframe and steering rack are out

Good afternoon, I’m having the same issue as Gotham22. My wire is also disconnected. I don’t know the name of the part. I have a 78 (3/78) 280z.

Good afternoon, I’m having the same issue as Gotham22. I’m new to this thread and trying to navigate this wiring as a beginner.

I think thats a significant difference. Adjusting the throttle stop on that carb will move the others. Have you got a pic of how the throttle bodies are linked? I balance them by disconnecting the linkage and using air bypass to get each pair in balance with themselves and the throttle stops to get the 3 three balanced with each other. Then connect/adjust the linkage so they're still flowing the same at idle. They should then stay in balance as you open them.

@calZ I agree, the logo location is unfortunate but I'm running with it as I'm working around various clearances and I didn't find great options. Given all of the modifications required of any cover, I had also weighed making my own but PTZ cut me a great deal 😁 I suppose the silver lining and eye opener for me was how much more aftermarket there is now for r200s than when I was looking to build one 10 or 15yrs ago. Just the availability of monolithic chromoly conversion stubs alone versus welded options is huge. @Zetsaz if you run the older r200 style covers you also need to open up the mounting flange bolt holes as they are upsized from m8 to m10 on the more "modern" r200s. Attached are some pics of the machining operations on the cover for a better idea. Unfortunately still delayed for my chassis to get scheduled in so I think I'm going to do some more fabrication and welding on various aspects while I wait so the shop won't need to worry about it. I've been hesitant to get too far into the bodywork at home as our garage is attached and my wife doesn't like the mess and chemicals 😂

Thanks for the tune! I ordered a new IAC mentioned on the efi web site, for 1992 Grand Am 3.3L V6 model, walker products 21591012 (Tom, appreciate the reference). It has a different sharp pointed tip vs the ones I have (mushroom shaped). My IAC can barely control the idle, letting a lot of air by (poor seating position inside the PTZ's intake). It is also sometimes unpredictable - one day it will set the idle at 900ish, the other - over a 1000 rpm. I will update the thread once I install it.

The Escort diff cover has their logo in about the same spot, but despite the much higher fluid capacity they kept it small. Only 3 fins are interrupted.

The synchronizer reading will be 5 on the first carb and 7 on the other two . Not sure how much off that really is . If I try and adjust the idle screw on the first ITB , that moves the other two based on how the linkages are overlapped .