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I am tired of working on it, it goes in for a new harness next week. I am going to be lazy and pay someone for it

I did full length frame rails, stitched the front towers, and a pretty involved cage in my 280. I know the 240s are a bit more known for issues but i think similar would be sufficient. Some guys add the inner fender braces, I didn't but they seem popular. Is your front strut tower brace triangulated or just straight across? Triangulated off the firewall would add a bit more structure. What is the design of your cage?

I just installed my dealer AC and I can attest to the tight quarters on the passenger side . I’m running Datsunworks kick panel speakers and there isn’t 2mm between the evaporator and the speaker panel . I do like that set up but I’m too lazy to rewire everything and my MS is working fine now . I bet you’re about ready to be driving that gorgeous machine instead of doing all that wiring

Hi, hopefully this is the right spot to post this question. i have a 71 240z that I am restomoding. I also have a close to 600hp ls3 dry sump engine . if anyone has experience with that much hp in the 240z, what would you recommend to stop it from twisting? I have a full roll historic roll cage. Front and rear strut braces. what else should I look to do?

Looking to do the same as this guy what do i need to remove and in what order i can see he has taken the outer reinforcement off at some point

09-20-2026 ATLAS Z UPDATE: I spent most of the day going around fixing connections and getting lights that weren't working.....working. I managed to get it about 99% done. I then cut up and modified the 16X16X4" deep aluminum cake pan I bought to work as a cover for the electrical, and once fitted, I painted it gloss black and added some clear coats. In the pics the wires behind it can be seen....because I have to zip tie them back up after doing my splice repairs, but it fits well. Lastly I started on the 3 gauge sensors in the engine compartment that need to be lengthened to work. I also tried to start the engine.....have plenty of fuel there, so more tracing of wires to find out what is keeping it from starting. PICS

09-19-2026 ATLAS Z UPDATE: I had to replace the O ring around the thermostat, so I got that fixed and got the antifreeze poured back in. Then I did some preliminary electrical checks. a few little things not quite working, so I have to work my way through connections, but 90% is working!! Charging the battery back up to 100% and will try for a start tomorrow hopefully. Then I worked on installing my rear polycarbonate wear "window". I had to trim here and there, and then by trial and error had to keep playing with it and modding here and there but got in finished. in the pics, you can see the small pieces of rubber I installed as a cushion for the window. I got the rubber from Amazon....I can provide a link if you want, jsut ask. God willing I can get out there tomorrow and do some more. PICS

Why would I put my Haltech R3 in my engine bay? Well I’m doing the opposite of most people and going with my ecu in my engine bay. My 240z has dealer AC (it’s huge) and I hate having my ecu on my passenger kick panel. I have so little room there and I currently have a 5v short I cannot find. My harness is a mess from multiple ecu changes and wiring changes and it’s time to start over. The R3 is a 4 channel PDM with an internal 150amp fuse. So it can power my injectors, coils and fuel pump and leave me with 1-2 extra circuits for later down the line. Having it here will allow me to make a sexy harness that is fully serviceable and the whole thing will basically drop in. The mount will be getting cnc cut this week. The goal is a no holes drilled mount and no holes drilled in my car install, using a Braille battery. It will attach with dual J/V bolts.

Share anywhere you want!

This is awesome! Do you mind if we share other places?

My E31

It’s a 302. I replaced the cam and got aluminum heads, also going with sniper EFI, should be north of 300hp to the wheels. I’ll get it on a dyno to dial in the tune. Yep, got a brand new TREMEC tkx 5 speed manual transmission waiting to go in once I get this engine mount finished. It’ll see some street time 😁, but primarily building it for the track

Yep, same place. Thanks for finding them, was wondering where to buy some. Here is the warning label.

Hey Everyone! I wanted to share a new microfiche/resource sharing website I've been working on. A couple years ago I bought a full set of microfiche slides for the Datsun Zs and scanned them at my local library. I wanted a more easily searchable database of parts and the ability to add things like torque specs, notes, or references. The result is at the link below! Still a work in progress as I still need to verify and clean up the information and number callouts for about 80% of the diagrams but the site is functional. If anyone has ideas on what they'd like to see added in the future feel free to comment or send a message through the contact page! Thanks for looking! https://datsunresource.com/

What's the cubes on your windsor V8? Manual trans? I hope this car hits the street as well as the track!

windows are SWEET!

09-14-2026 ATLAS Z UPDATE: So I managed to get all of the wiring inside the car done today! Located the OBD II port right on the side of the center console, Ran a thick #4 wire to the alternator power. All the little things that just add up and take a long time. I have the cover for the panel, now I can just cut and fab it, and the big remaining part of the build is done. 3 gauge sensor wires in the engine bay need to be lengthened and installed and but the interior portion is done. I will be fashioning a beautification plate to go over the bolts holding the passenger floor down that didn't come out looking right. PICS:

Oh....I didn't read that. Glad you said something! Did you get yours from the same place? I didn't know you were doing that. That is cool.

Been working on the car, but not a lot of visual progress. Spent a lot of time messing with suspension, trying to get the track width adjusted out to fit my wide body kit better. Think I have the fronts in a decent spot, need to tackle the rears now. I bolted on the angle iron for the engine cradle, using the bolts that attach to the apex subframe. Going to add at least one more vertically closer to the cradle. Now I’m ready to set in the engine to test where it needs to sit so I can weld it together. Cradle is sitting nice and snug to the angle iron, so should be easy to weld up, once it’s in the right place. Windows came in 🥳 I got the tint and the hard coat on them, went with the 4mm. Very happy with how light they are and how they look. Didn’t like the $200 tariff though 😣

Nice, mine just came in too. Not sure why, but you need to remove the plastic. I was going to leave them in the box until I was ready to install, but saw a warning on the box that the plastic protection needed to be removed within 4 weeks.

@brianZortiz how did this all work out for you? I'm wanting to do the same to my Z.

I read a post here, I believe yesterday, about a car with droning exhaust sounds. Can't seem to find it today. He was looking for a Magnaflow muffler that would meet his 14" X 6" requirement. I have a new one, in original, never opened box. It's part number 14519. I'll sell it for $50.00 plus shipping. They sell today for $170.00 or more.

09-13-2026 ATLAS Z UPDATE. Only one pic......just a day of finishing up the wiring, about 90% done. Very time consuming. PIC.

Also wondering if that oil pan made clearance I’m in the middle of my swap right now at the point of changing the oil pan and it’s either spending $700 on iron or about $500 for aluminum but I seen the jags one is about 300 that you listed

This has the potential to be one of the best threads in this site's history. It would be awesome to end up with complete database of head flow for the different combos.