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Thanks again this thread and the pics were money, picked up a little rubber stopper from Ace Hardware and worked like a charm. Saw the little orange pieces on the carpet floor, thanks again. Perfect script.

Graphed some trans and diff gearing options along with my current speeds at Sebring and some theoretical speeds for my build. Apples and Oranges on the cars, but the thing should be faster both in corners and on top speed. I might be a little optimistic on my theoretical speeds, but had to give it a shot. Thinking of option 3 as I get some use of 5th gear.

WOW, you have really gotten after it! Massive amount of work done. I bet you're tired. very pretty. GOOD JOB!

@Zetsaz a lot of my friends have been doing the same 😅...not a bad move imo if you're planning to use the parts. My OSG LSD actually came in a month or so ago before this whole mess but as we've seen things can change by the hour lol. One thing to look out for is some importers have already been upcharging 25%+ for "tariffs" even though they aren't fully in place yet. I was asking around this past few weeks and got similar stories from a lot of 3rd party importers so maybe they were anticipating and charging the 25%+ upfront to be safe, but who knows if they would've pocketed the fees or refunded those extra costs if the tax bill didn'tcome in. I ended up ordering parts direct from JP companies like Escort and they did not charge me the thousands of extra in "tariff" fees, they just let me know if it's stopped in customs I would need to pay the taxes to get it released which has always been my experience prior.

I've used Arizona tint before and liked how it turned out on the G37, but I'm more than happy to try a different reputable place especially if the cost is better or I can get better work for a comparable price.

I've heard Mo's Tint in Smithfield is supposed to be really reasonable and do good work.

Daaaaaaaaaang You had literally the same idea I did. At a minimum I think I'll be ordering an OS Giken LSD to avoid future tariffs. That Escort piece is super nice. Was tempted to get the escort finned R200 cover, but I know realistically I have no use for it. Will be negligible benefit at best compared to my oem finned cover. Better off saving that money for the KW suspension haha. Looking into more stuff that I might need in the future and trying to get an import order done within the next week.

Here is something fun/ silly I have been thinking of and finally made. It’s a remote oil pressure distribution block made to look like the stock 240z brake prop valve. I previously had a steel T In the block, that broke off and then when I was using an easy out I cracked my stock block bung. I said never again! 3D metal printing is neat stuff. I had it tumbled to look even more cast. I run stock gauges and my ecu needs its own signal. This location allows stock wiring to also work.

Last month blew by but good progress has been made on the chassis. This next few weeks I'll need to finish stripping a few things off the chassis and get it loaded onto a body cart for transport in May. Due to the uncertain tariff situation I procured a few parts I was initially planning to order after the car goes out. I decided to eat the costs now as prices could potentially increase 25%-200%+ on the US consumer tax side and who knows how sticky that will be. For the turbo build refresh I wanted to beef up the chassis and rear end. A few weeks ago I dropped off the Q45 diff for a full rebuild with R34 GT-R 3.54 gears and a OSG Super Lock LSD. My rear end was also already structurally reinforced and plated in, but I decided to take that a step further with a Escort JP single piece rear end. I also received a PTZ rear finned cover, which I will need to perform some machine work to fit. For additional chassis reinforcement, the OE type competition rollbar should arrive soon. It's more of a historic/obscure part but I'll post some mockup pictures for anyone who's interested.

With summer only a few months on the horizon I'm planning the next several changes to the car. Things waiting to be done: -Install driver side spindle and bearings - only passenger side was replaced this winter to allow the car to move for now. -Install micro brake kit from T3 - sitting at my sister's place begging to be used. -Check wiring for new stereo. -Install and seal nismo shifter - washers arrived after I last left, only plastic cup missing. Things that require purchases or mild side work: -Redo oil pan gasket... again ... small leak from rear passenger side. Will likely purchase the reproduction nissan comp gasket from MSA - has been very well reviewed and recommended. -Clearance throttle cable bracket for AC bulkhead - my AC bulkhead unfortunately bumps into the skillard piece. Would prefer to grind that bracket a bit than grind the rounded side of my printed piece. -Fix/remake intercooler and AC condenser brackets. -Swap to 3.54 rear diff - my 3.9 was great with the worn old engine, but is probably holding back my turbo build, and even worsening my fuel economy on my long trips. Have been told it'll be faster since I'll be able to stay in boost longer without shifting too. -Potentially rebuild my old 3.54 with an OS Giken diff. Still debating if it's worth it or if I should just drop in the old diff as is. -Install and wire AC Fans - Looking into how I want to wire them now. Would like to control them with megasquirt, but I know it'd be simpler to just have them trigger by a thermostatic switch. -Cut and crimp AC hoses. Low priority, but will likely buy parts and hope I get to it: -Resurrected Classics has remade all of the important gaskets, and I'm considering ordering a kit so I can finally get decent sealing and fitment from the front windshield seal and lower rear hatch seal. The rear hatch seals in particular have driven me insane and ruined some of the usability of the rear hatch because I'm never comfortable opening it and having to tuck in the hatch seal so it doesn't get pulled down when I'm closing it. -Drop off somewhere to have exhaust redone (or cut and fit myself and have someone I know weld it) - Planning on improving the clearance in the center and by the trans mount, as well as getting a Stainless Bros center resonator (bigger and oval to help with clearance and volume) and a Stainless bros oval muffler. Will still be straight through but with much more volume to absorb some of the sound. -Drop off for light tint to further improve interior temps on long drives - Lizard skin did some miracle work on keeping the interior drive-able for more than ten minutes at a time, but the greenhouse effect of the windows, especially the rear hatch, will always catch up after a while.

Then it was off to paint. The boys did an amazing job! Worthy of a $50 bottle of tequila and a celebration!

We did a lot more paint prep than we should have, because the painter was not going to apply his paint over someone else' prep. But I think we did save a lot of his time, by taking care of some problem areas, especially where the rear fenders did not quite fit the damaged sheet metal behind them.

I don't have DOHC type funds:)

oil lines and where to put massive porsche 928 oil filter next on the list

Man that is so cool. Not as cool as a DOHC though. 😀 I'm for sure going to do this mod at some point especially after seeing how responsive it is. Great job!

hello, Some tiny small steps right now. I have started with the frame rails and have made the part that will go inside the car. 1.5mm steel that goes front to rear. New ones under the car are being made with a higher profile than standard, 45mm in front and 25 in the rear. Christian

04-13-2025 TURBO PROJECT UPDATE: so now I am in the world of carb, carb, carb. I must have taken the carb off, changed jets and re-installed about 10 times today, I didn't keep count, but at any rate it was a lot! I got tan idea from another guy to use "Chat GPT" and when you give it all your information, you would be amazed at how well it can give you an idea on tuning everything in! I did manage to drive the Z to the nearby gas station to get some gas....and although it wouldn't idle without giving it gas, and it was rich, once I got into the mid range circuit of the carb it started running better, when I hit wide open throttle the sound, everything changed and it roared like a wild beast! seat of the pants it felt like 300 h.p. or close to it. I......Couldn't tell the boost, my AEM gauge is wonky....., it had to have been over 10 psi it felt like, FWIW. Then I heard a loud "POP" and the engine died. I pulled over and checked everything and everything seemed ok. I started it back up and drove it back home, and it didn't pull like that first time, but wasn't sure why. Later I was running it and watching it, and I could see a burning charge coming out of my main turbo coupler! So, the POP was the coupling giving out. No wonder I can't get it to idle. BUT, CHAT GPT gave me a lot of experience with it, and it is now sitting with a 47.5 pilot jet in it. I just ordered the coupling, so God willing we will give it a go at a later date! Here is a crummy pic, but you can kind of see how my customer center dash piece turned out.~Joe

ITBS are bolted down after doing some fitting of the Maxima Diesel intake . Still waiting on the welder to finish up my collector pipe so I can’t start it yet . Also need to finalize location of vacuum log that will be inside my CAI - whenever it gets done at the welder . I wish I could TIG worth a shit and my life would be easier - lol. Still most of the back breaking work of bolting this down and plumbing should be good to go .

My BIG pilot jets for the HSR carb arrived today.....at some point the beast will have enough fuel to idle! cheap at amazon! No name China made, but they work.

Oops. Looks like it is.

I would use the Engine Electrical and Body Electrical chapters for the diagrams. They are more detailed. I don't see the ignition relay involved in the lighting system.

When I was fixing up my car I was bit thick and lost my ignition relay. Now I’m trying to make a replacement relays for, because new is not anymore available. Is this correct? I took it from the Classic z car wiring diagram and it does not make sense. Why the black/white has connection to coil side and the connection side? Also why there is one dummy connection? The blue/green. This is really frustrating, because I think that this preventing me from having blinkers and there for I cannot get my car inspected.

I found this video on visiting a Metal Supply Shop in Japan. While doing a S30 Fairlady Restoration, the Body Man needed more sheet metal to finish his job. This video shows a side of car restoration that most people never see- where the sheet metal actually comes from. The rest of the video shows detailed 240z body restoration It shows how to repair difficult body areas of the 240z. I hope you guys find this video interesting. Toolman

for curiosity, on an HSR carb, the pilot jet for idle sprays into the bore right behind the needle. here is a pic. When I looked online I couldn't find a pic anywhere.